I have an issue that’s reared it’s head after my valley pan repair and cooling system replacement and I could use some ideals on things to double check this weekend when I dive into it. I’ll note this has never been something that’s happened until right after I did the valley pan repair, water pump, thermostat and radiator replacement.
Here’s what I know: occasionally, the GX will crank over for several seconds before it actually fires up. It always fires up (except maybe once). It also exhibits a sort of rough idle type condition when stopped in traffic. It doesn't seem to be a low RPM type stumble as it stays around 650-700 RPM while it happens (verified numbers on scan gauge), but more it feels like what a ~400 RPM rough idle would, a bit of engine stumbling shake.
Here’s a clip of it exhibiting the starting problem.
If it sat overnight or at work for 8 hours, it starts right up.
When I’ve driven it somewhere and the engine is warm, then I park it for about a hour and go to start it again, that’s primarily when it acts up. Twice it’s done this after sitting for 8 hours and those were on the warmest days we’ve had recently (50+ degrees). If I restart it immediately or soon after using it, it starts fine. Sitting for a hour or so after warm is the primary occurrence sequence.
I’ve checked all the electrical connections I touched and they’re connected, but I didn’t verify continuity completely. All air hoses are connected and a smoke test didn’t reveal any cracks/leaks on the intake system, secondary air pump piping nor various other sections of systems I could plug into.
Theres no codes pending or thrown, passes my scanners evap system test. I see no evidence that I cracked an injector or anything (while probably leaning on the fuel rail a time or two during the repair). There is a cracked cover on the injector rail that I can’t identify, but doesn’t seem to be a likely issue:
My next moves are to check power and signal voltages from the basic sensors that make sense to me (as I handled them during repairs):
- MAF
- Throttle body
- MAP
Then I'll plan to:
- Clean throttle body thoroughly on a bench (had done a half ass job cleaning it while the intake manifold was off)
- Check each connection I took off and ensure electrical continuity across each side to make sure a pin isn’t making intermittent contact
Anything I’m overlooking that make's sense or might be worth looking at?
Here’s what I know: occasionally, the GX will crank over for several seconds before it actually fires up. It always fires up (except maybe once). It also exhibits a sort of rough idle type condition when stopped in traffic. It doesn't seem to be a low RPM type stumble as it stays around 650-700 RPM while it happens (verified numbers on scan gauge), but more it feels like what a ~400 RPM rough idle would, a bit of engine stumbling shake.
Here’s a clip of it exhibiting the starting problem.
If it sat overnight or at work for 8 hours, it starts right up.
When I’ve driven it somewhere and the engine is warm, then I park it for about a hour and go to start it again, that’s primarily when it acts up. Twice it’s done this after sitting for 8 hours and those were on the warmest days we’ve had recently (50+ degrees). If I restart it immediately or soon after using it, it starts fine. Sitting for a hour or so after warm is the primary occurrence sequence.
I’ve checked all the electrical connections I touched and they’re connected, but I didn’t verify continuity completely. All air hoses are connected and a smoke test didn’t reveal any cracks/leaks on the intake system, secondary air pump piping nor various other sections of systems I could plug into.
Theres no codes pending or thrown, passes my scanners evap system test. I see no evidence that I cracked an injector or anything (while probably leaning on the fuel rail a time or two during the repair). There is a cracked cover on the injector rail that I can’t identify, but doesn’t seem to be a likely issue:
My next moves are to check power and signal voltages from the basic sensors that make sense to me (as I handled them during repairs):
- MAF
- Throttle body
- MAP
Then I'll plan to:
- Clean throttle body thoroughly on a bench (had done a half ass job cleaning it while the intake manifold was off)
- Check each connection I took off and ensure electrical continuity across each side to make sure a pin isn’t making intermittent contact
Anything I’m overlooking that make's sense or might be worth looking at?
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