Lockers

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Doc said:
...
Anyway- anyone running the Aussie up front in a DD?

Me !

I have them in both diffs. Since I only engage the hubs and transfer case to 4 wheel the front Aussie just sits there.

Cahil
 
Cahilc, that was my impression as well, but I was told by one person that having one in the front can sometimes make things bind up in a turn, WITHOUT the hubs locked. My understanding was that without the hubs locked, that the locker did indeed just sit there and do nothing.
 
Doc said:
...
I was told by one person that having one in the front can sometimes make things bind up in a turn, WITHOUT the hubs locked ...

Didn't know that ... hmmm. Interesting, I'll pay closer attention. Should have the rear fixed next Friday. Then I'll be able to pay closer attention to that front.

Cheers,
Cahil
 
Doc said:
Cahilc, that was my impression as well, but I was told by one person that having one in the front can sometimes make things bind up in a turn, WITHOUT the hubs locked. My understanding was that without the hubs locked, that the locker did indeed just sit there and do nothing.

Without the hubs locked, there is no way that it will affect steering. Your locking hubs disconnect the wheel hubs from the axle shaft. Hence, no connection to the locker inside of the axle.
 
p.s. manjanrk I got some pics of your rig on my comp from fall gathering...My buddy Jer got to go but I missed out because of classes. Anyway he took a bunch of pics and he got a few of yours....Heard ya zonked a drive shaft...
looked like fun....
-Al
 
Doc,
I wandered over here and this is part of the discussion you and I had. Without the hubs locked, he aussie does nothing. It's when you are in 4 wheel that having a non selectable locker in the front can be a problem, depending on the trail you are running. I hear that locked and in snow they can be dangerous. I was also told going down hill with a front locker was a problem.
I am real happy with my Aussie in the rear. It always active and will assist when ever I have a problems so I don't get stuck like Razor was saying.
If you think about it when you are wheeling, even 4 wheeling, the majority of the traction still comes from the rear as it is pushing the majority of the weight forward. When yo get stuck and your wheels are spinning, its usually 1 front and 1 rear. Lock up the rear and your out of there. Certainaly, there are times a front locker would help, and one of my future mods is to put in a front selectable locker. Heck, front and rear lockers were a requirement for my 80/LX450 purchase, but they are selectable.

Here is my recommendation. Install one Aussie in the rear and see how you like it. iF you still want to do the front then go ahead. The Aussie is easy to remove as well. Everyone has a different "feel" and opinion. An Aussie in the front may be fine for you and your driving style. I was just told be several people I have a lot of respect for not to put a non selectable locker in the front, and I went with their advice.
PM Nuclearlemon. She has an Aussie in the rear and an ARB in the front.

Ken
 
lowtideride said:
I heard turning a locked front is going to mighty hard with 37s any truth to that?

Here's you new motto Lowtide:

When the babes ask you if you "pump" iron ... your reply is ... "Naw Honey, I *turn* iron!" (kiss your biceps ... then her)

:D

Cahil
 
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Romer said:
...
locked and in snow they can be dangerous. I was also told going down hill with a front locker was a problem...

I've got more glues !!!

Locked in snow is dangerous because the front tires may break free from giving traction due to being locked directly to each other ...

Going down hill is a problem because the Aussie uses torque from the driveshaft to engage. Torque from driveshaft, twists the center pin, which spreads the center gears, expanding the springs, locking the drive shafts.

If you coast going downhill the front will unlock unless driveshaft torque is continous.

Elbow connected to the ... hand bone ... hand bone connected to the beer bone ... beer bone connected to the lip bone ... lip bone connected to the Cruiser bone(BJ model) ...

:D

Cahil
 
Romer said:
Doc,
Install one Aussie in the rear and see how you like it. iF you still want to do the front then go ahead. The Aussie is easy to remove as well. Ken

Ken- that may be the way to go. Not a bad idea at all.

The reason I want dual lockers is because the place where I generally wheel has one gnarly portion that no-one makes it up. No-one except me, in my locked 93. One of the guys I wheel with even has a rear locker. The rest run open diff's.

So I guess maybe I'm just being over zealous here. I want super traction.

But you are spot on about having a locked front going down hill is bad news. I completely forgot about that one.

I guess I misuderstood what you said about the front locker earlier, sorry for any confusion. I'm entirely cruiser-flustered lately. (see my light post in the 80's forum).

Anyway- back to installing my roof rack.
 
cahilc said:
I've got more glues !!!

Going down hill is a problem because the Aussie uses torque from the driveshaft to engage. Torque from driveshaft, twists the center pin, which spreads the center gears, expanding the springs, locking the drive shafts.

If you coast going downhill the front will unlock unless driveshaft torque is continous.


Cahil

I don't understand why this would be a problem. Can you explain please.

Thanks

gb
 
Greg_B said:
I don't understand why this would be a problem. Can you explain please.

Thanks

gb

Problem might be the wrong choice of words. How about "unique handling characteristic" ?

Let's assume the driver is going up hill, there is adequate torque from the driveline to both diff's and the lockers are locked. At some point the driver will top-out on the hill and come off the gas pedal. The torque from the driveline will diminish and the diffs will unlock. If the driver the continues going up hill the diffs should lock up again with adeques driveline torque. If the driver goes down hill, the diffs will completely open and remain open until adequate torque from the driveline to relock. If the drive shaft does not supply adequate torque to the diffs, they will remain unlocked for the descent.

Is this a "problem" or "unique handling characteristic" ???

Am I correct ???

Still learning,
Cahil
 
Learning here too, hence the question.

One day, in the distant future, when the 60 is done, it may well have an Ozzie front and rear(have them on the shelf and want to put them in, learn and speak of experience), and I am absorbing as much as possible, so I understand the consequences and what I can expect.

From your explaination, I would anticipate the diff would act "open" if coasting downhill, and was wondering why that would be a problem, as open diff'd vehicles go downhill quite safely all the time. I think we are on the same page there...

I am curious about people's experience with an Ozzie type locker in the front and going downhill.

Snow/ice/slippery surfaces would certainly be a consideration and require an adjustment of driving style with the Ozzie in the rear.

g(on the lunchbox locker learning curve as well)b
 
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Greg_B said:
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I am curious about people's experience with an Ozzie type locker in the front and going downhill.

Snow/ice/slippery surfaces would certainly be a consideration and require an adjustment of driving style with the Ozzie in the rear ...


I think part of the perplex is the fact if you get off the gas the diffs will unlock and freewheel because they are no longer under driveshaft torque. Internal carrier lockers are dependent on driveline torque for lockup.

Interesting note is in theory this should work the same in reverse too. However if you are rocking forward/backward will they lock forward, open , then lock in reverse ???

LSD's on the other hand are more mild mannered in their approach to traction. I've had LSD's front & rear and been completely stuck in snow. Time to try lockers.

LSD's would have the advantage in primarily snow environment.

However, if your lookin' at rocks ... get locks.

:D

Cahil

P.S. On a side note for future installs I would have a complete side gear shims set available, 4 sets, 2 per set, ~$65 and I would still pull the carrier and have a very competent diff mechanic set the backlash and preload on reinstall. Just my 2 cents.
 
lowtideride said:
p.s. manjanrk I got some pics of your rig on my comp from fall gathering...My buddy Jer got to go but I missed out because of classes. Anyway he took a bunch of pics and he got a few of yours....Heard ya zonked a drive shaft...
looked like fun....
-Al

Don't quite sound like me. I'm stuck in the Mid-West... I'm thinking GSMTR in 2006 tho...
 
Greg_B said:
Learning here too, hence the question.

One day, in the distant future, when the 60 is done, it may well have an Ozzie front and rear(have them on the shelf and want to put them in, learn and speak of experience), and I am absorbing as much as possible, so I understand the consequences and what I can expect.

From your explaination, I would anticipate the diff would act "open" when downhill, and was wondering why that would be a problem, as open diff'd vehicles go downhill quite safely all the time. I think we are on the same page there...

I am curious about people's experience with an Ozzie type locker in the front and going downhill.

Snow/ice/slippery surfaces would certainly be a consideration and require an adjustment of driving style with the Ozzie in the rear.

g(on the lunchbox locker learning curve as well)b

This topic is being way over thought.

An auto locker will affect you on road. That is all there really is to say. In certain situations it will ratchet. In others it may bind up and let out a bang. In others you may feel the rear end sway upon lockup. You will drag the inside tire in corners screeching the tires. It is all stuff that can be leared to live with. I was very wary of installing an auto locker in the front due to snow and Ice. I got a deal and managed to find some cash (I mean credit :D ) to buy an ARB. If I didn't stumble upon that ARB I would have gone with an auto locker because I wanted to go where an open front wouldn't let me. There is always a price to pay for better off road characteristics.

With an auto in the front you really need longfields. I'm tempting fate with an arb in front and stock birfs.

The aussie is a great product, and a lot of bang for the buck. If you feel that you need a locker in the front then go for it. Not everybody will be happy.

Just my $.02.
 
p.s. manjanrk I got some pics of your rig on my comp from fall gathering...My buddy Jer got to go but I missed out because of classes. Anyway he took a bunch of pics and he got a few of yours....Heard ya zonked a drive shaft...
looked like fun....
-Al

majanrk said:
Don't quite sound like me. I'm stuck in the Mid-West... I'm thinking GSMTR in 2006 tho...
His cruiser looks just like Jonathan's. Same color, same hood... and yes, Jonathan busted a driveshaft. Came back to camp around 10:30. He was not the only one. Lane too.
 
Please clarify going down hill. I am engaged in Lo with the transmission still turning the tires and performing the braking. If they were locked when I started this, whats to unlock them?
 
majanrk said:
Don't quite sound like me. I'm stuck in the Mid-West... I'm thinking GSMTR in 2006 tho...



My bad....It looks just like your truck and people drive there from all over...You not gonna make GSMTR this year????? come on you can do it :D anyway ill be there hopefully...
 
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