Locating ARB compressor in the rear (and other rabbit holes related to on board air)

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kcjaz

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Location
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I am now tired of my portable air compressor and the long time it takes to air up and its inability to pump all 4 tires up to 40 psi without resting to cool off. I can do the typical engine bay installation and may do so but w/o lockers, my only use for the compressor is tire inflation. I may someday regear and add lockers but that is a long way off if ever.

So, to me, locating the compressor in the rear of the truck is more convenient because that is where the hoses and gauges and other tire stuff is. If the compressor was back there I'd only have to go to one place. I will be adding a double swing out this winter, my idea for the accessory swing out is to have a tool/gear box like an underbed truck box that potentially I could house the compressor in. I think this would be super convenient. I understand that wiring may be more complicated. Potentially, I could use the trailer hitch plug which seems to be pretty simple power solution.

I've never seen anyone with the ARB set up that wasn't under the hood. That makes me wonder, why, and what obvious obstacle am I missing for locating it in the rear of the truck.
 
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I am now tired of my portable air compressor and the long time it takes to air up and its inability to pump all 4 tires up to 40 psi without resting to cool off. I can do the typical engine bay installation and may do so but w/o lockers, my only use for the compressor is tire inflation. I may someday regear and add lockers but that is a long way off if ever.

So, to me, locating the compressor in the rear of the truck is more convenient because that is where the hoses and gauges and other tire stuff is. If the compressor was back there I'd only have to go to one place. I will be adding a double swing out this winter, my idea for the accessory swing out is to have a tool/gear box like an underbed truck box that potentially I could house the compressor in. I think this would be super convenient. I understand that wiring may be more complicated. Potentially, I could use the trailer hitch plug which seems to be pretty simple power solution.

I've never seen anyone with the ARB set up that wasn't under the hood. That makes me wonder, why, and what obvious obstacle am I missing for locating it in the rear of the truck.
Need to work on your Google-Fu, there are several post describing putting it in the factory jack location.
 
Need to work on your Google-Fu, there are several post describing putting it in the factory jack location.
Ones I’ve seen are actually in the subwoofer location. Haven’t seen any in the jack location.




 
Ones I’ve seen are actually in the subwoofer location. Haven’t seen any in the jack location.




thanks Sensei @RET2, I'm apparently still a white belt in Google Fu as I did search but failed to find the posts linked by @brasskey.
 
You can keep the arb twin compressor in the engine and run a split line connector to the back. This way it’s out of the way and you can air up from the engine bay or cargo area with just the nipple showing near the cargo plug. Very clean design this way.
@Eric Sarjeant has done this to one of the 200’s he built
 
Also if you read some of those threads you’ll see the compressor in the engine bay, with a tank in the passenger side cargo area behind the wall. I believe ARB or someone makes a bracket for that. Then you have a QC in the cargo area with a tank for faster fills, air tools etc.

Other option is the tank bracket in the spare area using the wits end kit or similar to hold the tank.
 
You can keep the arb twin compressor in the engine and run a split line connector to the back. This way it’s out of the way and you can air up from the engine bay or cargo area with just the nipple showing near the cargo plug. Very clean design this way.
@Eric Sarjeant has done this to one of the 200’s he built
@Angelo1 is correct. I have the ARB under my hood, but have an air chuck mounted in back for easy access. I think that’s best unless you want to sacrifice your subwoofer.
 
Mine is underhood, with filler and switch on the front bumper. The compressor is loud when it's on, would drive my kids nuts inside the cabin. It also gets very hot.
I don't want to put the compressor in the cab. I was originally thinking to mount it in a accessory storage box that I buy or fabricate on my rear swing out. I am now leaning toward the typical engine bay mounting location and running a hose to the rear for a hose connection. I could locate the switch in the back to turn the compressor on or off. I assume people that run air-lockers put the switch in the dash. Did you put your switch on the front bumper just for tire inflation convenience or maybe install convenience as you don't have to get wires into the cab and take the dash apart?
 
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Mine is underhood, with filler and switch on the front bumper. The compressor is loud when it's on, would drive my kids nuts inside the cabin. It also gets very hot.
It does get pretty warm but had it in the same location in two previous 200’s and it never failed.
 
Some vendor on here was looking for someone to let them mount it in the rear, I think just for the price of the parts?

They were putting in behind the rear passenger interior quarter panel area. I have seen and bunch of LC200's with it there most in the AUZ area.

Myself, I went with the SLEE mount and put it up near the brake master cylinder area.
 
thanks Sensei @RET2, I'm apparently still a white belt in Google Fu as I did search but failed to find the posts linked by @brasskey.
Far from being Sensei, I too suffer the same malady, it could be said that I have a BSPHD in that department.
I don't want to put the compressor in the cab. I was originally thinking to mount it in a accessory storage box that I buy or fabricate on my rear swing out. I am now leaning toward the typical engine bay mounting location and running a hose to the rear for a hose connection. I could locate the switch in the back to turn the compressor on or off. I assume people that run air-lockers put the switch in the dash. Did you put your switch on the front bumper just for tire inflation convenience or maybe install convenience as you don't have to get wires into the cab and take the dash apart?
I'd put the switch in the cab. The compressor will only cycle when pressure regulator tells it too. Hit the switch and get out of truck to utilize either a front or rear mounted outlet.
 
I am now tired of my portable air compressor and the long time it takes to air up and its inability to pump all 4 tires up to 40 psi without resting to cool off. I can do the typical engine bay installation and may do so but w/o lockers, my only use for the compressor is tire inflation. I may someday regear and add lockers but that is a long way off if ever.

So, to me, locating the compressor in the rear of the truck is more convenient because that is where the hoses and gauges and other tire stuff is. If the compressor was back there I'd only have to go to one place. I will be adding a double swing out this winter, my idea for the accessory swing out is to have a tool/gear box like an underbed truck box that potentially I could house the compressor in. I think this would be super convenient. I understand that wiring may be more complicated. Potentially, I could use the trailer hitch plug which seems to be pretty simple power solution.

I've never seen anyone with the ARB set up that wasn't under the hood. That makes me wonder, why, and what obvious obstacle am I missing for locating it in the rear of the truck.

KC, should have showed you my setup. I have my compressor underhood and couplers at all four corners for common fill:

IMG_7072.jpg
 
KC, should have showed you my setup. I have my compressor underhood and couplers at all four corners for common fill:

View attachment 2750262
That's cool. Can you measure the pressure at the common manifold? Also do you have pics of the couplers? Especially how you mounted in the rear?
 
That's cool. Can you measure the pressure at the common manifold? Also do you have pics of the couplers? Especially how you mounted in the rear?
You can depending on how you set it up. I've been testing/running it by sitting in the cab and monitoring via TPMS, once it hits pressure I turn off the compressor and let the system balance for about 10seconds.
 
You can depending on how you set it up. I've been testing/running it by sitting in the cab and monitoring via TPMS, once it hits pressure I turn off the compressor and let the system balance for about 10seconds.
A little off topic, but I noticed that my TPMS readings on the dash, while in Ouray at LCDC, were like 5 psi off compared to my my good hand gauge. Usually its within a psi or so. I checked today and my TPMS is 2 psi low compared to my manual gauge. I don't expect TPMS to be much better than +/-2psi but I wouldn't think change in altitude would really affect what ever inherent bias error exists in the TPMS compared to my hand gauge. The altitude affect should be the same and regardless its not 3 or more psi.
 
A little off topic, but I noticed that my TPMS readings on the dash, while in Ouray at LCDC, were like 5 psi off compared to my my good hand gauge. Usually its within a psi or so. I checked today and my TPMS is 2 psi low compared to my manual gauge. I don't expect TPMS to be much better than +/-2psi but I wouldn't think change in altitude would really affect what ever inherent bias error exists in the TPMS compared to my hand gauge. The altitude affect should be the same and regardless its not 3 or more psi.

I relocated my power steering res and installed my compressor in that spot and then ran a chuck to the rear behind the tailgate. It is incredibly convenient as if its raining, I can hang out under the cover of the hatch. It also is safe from mud and debris back there. The install was pretty simple:


As far as TPMS, I asked about that on here before and one of the gurus said that TPMS should be very accurate (+/- 1psi) and that it would be more reliable than any guage. I am not sure about that, but I none of my gauges are within 3 psi of my tpms under any circumstances.

When I take my truck in and ask them to set the tires at 35 psi, it comes back with tpms reading exactly 35 psi, for what its worth.

I'd love to know how to calibrate all of my gauges and tpms to make them all accurate and consistent, or at least have a gauge that I know is dead on.
 
A little off topic, but I noticed that my TPMS readings on the dash, while in Ouray at LCDC, were like 5 psi off compared to my my good hand gauge. Usually its within a psi or so. I checked today and my TPMS is 2 psi low compared to my manual gauge. I don't expect TPMS to be much better than +/-2psi but I wouldn't think change in altitude would really affect what ever inherent bias error exists in the TPMS compared to my hand gauge. The altitude affect should be the same and regardless its not 3 or more psi

altitude can affect some hand held gauges short of the high end calibrated ones. Your TPMS is surprisingly good on the late model LCs and typically aligns with my nicer powertank digital gauge.
 

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