LJ78 Rad Questions...

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Joined
Jan 31, 2008
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OK, so I am thinking about towing a small ski boat for a weekend trip with a buddy... I dont own the boat so this isnt going to happen every weekend or anything, but I would like to haul quads etc. now and then so this may come up again...
My thought is to get the rad redone for more cooling... (3 core?):confused:
What I need to know is what exactly do I want done to improve to cooling system on the Prado? Anyone from Calgary (Crusher??) know a good reputable rad shop?

Also I am wanting to redo my exhaust - Again, anyone from Calgary know of a good muffler shop? (I know Crusher had one he swore by...,)
I am think about just clamping on my own 2 1/2 staright pip afte the down pipe for now... what do you all think about that idea (I am guessing it would still help out a bit for now...):hhmm:

Thanks a lot fellas!

T
 
clamp on a 3 inch straight pipe, get an aeroturbine exhaust can to give it a little more muffliing, exit it right in front of the rear tire and up your boost a bit.

Then figure out your radiator
 
would it be ok to clamp on that 3" pipe right after the down pipe?

What do you think about towing?? Have you done any?
 
Make sure you upgrade your exhaust to a min. of 2.5" for a downpipe. I am asuming you have the A343 auto, that will get warm also. Be carefull watch your temps if you have aftermarket guages. I am willing to bet that by the time you reach 90km/h while towing your egt's will be at 1100f SO BE CAREFULL! GOOD LUCK remember if temps start going way up you might have to abort the tow till more upgrades are done.
Aaron
 
Hmmm... I dont have a pyro or after market water temp guage yet either... may need to get that before the tow as well - (seems pretty risky without...)
Might kybosh towing the boat all together (love the truck more than the boat!) I can borrow my father in laws chev P/U instead of killing the little prado!)
Is it a waste to do the 3" pipe after the (stock) down pipe? (Just thinking I may do that part myself to see if there is much of an improvement before I make the investment of getting a shop to do the 'real deal'... OR is there somewhere anyone knows of to find a bolt on down pipe??

Thank guys!
 
I clamped on my 3" right after the down pipe, it made a difference but not as much as your hoping for, I'm waiting to upgrade the turbo so the downpipe and manifold will have to be custom.

The biggest gain is in engine temp mine dropped like 20 fahrenheit.

I'd say fine for now and then you'll have money left over for temp and pyro, boost gage can come later.
 
Hey guys hows it going. The best solution i think is to call up rocky mountian imports and talk to John. He found me a 180 thermostat instead of the 192 degree. They are original toyats t stats I belive from a 5L. I have been runing the 180 in my truck for the last three weeks and I love it. I have been trying to see just how hot I can get it. After 30 min of straight up hill I was at 200 max. This thermostat is not for winter only for summer. He will send it out to you in one day. With the 192 thermostat I would hit 200 in just minutes of hard up hill climbing. I have bought a Pro-sport temp gauge and have been very pleased with it. I use my shop lazer temp gauge to see how accurate it is and it is within 3 degrees F. Prosport will send it to you for 88 bucks all in.
Good luck
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Sorry just a quick addition, Rocky mountian Import may have a line on a complete 2.5 exhaust system from turbo back including muffler. He had mentioned it to me for around $700.00. Don't know exact price but call him and see.
Thanks.
 
Man, thank you very much pradocruzer... and RHD! I really appreciate the advice here.
I think I will go ahead and get one of the thermostats. Also I like that style of temp gauge you have, looks to be simle and 88 is alot better than the 300 I have been seeing for the other pyro gauges I have been looking at. Will I need a water temp gauge as well or will this be sufficient? (Pardon my ignorance but the guage you are showing there is for exhaust temps yah?)
Oh, on that same note did you tap that hole, I was thinking about putting the probe in right after the turbo so I wouldnt have to drill into the manifold...)

Again,
Thank you
 
Hey Pradocruzer...
So, I spoke with John (thanks for that he seems great!) and ordered that thermostat... and now I am just looking into these gauges. What exactly did you order from them? water or exhaust... truly I am confused as to which one I am needing to watch - I am sure both would be best but it looks like you may have the water temp gauge in yours....??

T
 
Hey Tebo how's it going. The site for the gauges is www.prosportgauges.com. In my opinion and mine only I think all you need is a water temp gauge. It is very hard to change egt temp and water temp so why buy both gauges. One of the problems of these little engines is your always at full boost when climbing hills. Your egt's and temp go up hand in hand. This is only my thoughts.
To make a easy install for the temp gauge buy the radiator hose adaptor. The best location for this hose adp is in the upper rad hose. I don't know the size of the upper rad hose but I can mic it at work and will let you know which adp size to buy. I drilled and taped my sensor before the t stat, wasen't that hard but may be it you haven't done this before.
Watch out from prosport because if you dont buy the expensive gauge the other ones don't come with the mounting pod and visor also always email them for a quote for shipping so there will be no surprises at your door.
Hope this helps.
 
Tebo remember that the 180 t stat is a summer t stat only. Switch back to your old one once the winter comes.
thanks
 
perfect!
Thanks again. I would really apreciate that size if its not too much trouble. I will order the gauge as soon as I get that info and thanks for the advice with the shipping etc...
 
Oh, also for after this is actually installed... what are the safe operating temps that I want to be shooting for? Or a better question when do I shut it down and let everything cool off...!?

(Seems I have a lot to learn here...)

Hey Pradocruzer, on a side note what kind of tires are on your prado right now... I know you had mentioned you where about to change them... what size are they and how are they on the highway? I like the look of them a lot.
:-)
Thanks buddy.
T
 
Hey Tebo. Look on Prosports web page and click on the rad adapter. It tells you how to measure for the adapter.
I got the out side of 1.75 inches or 45mm minus the 6mm wall thickness and The 38mm should be fine. Check on yours and see if we are the same page before you order.
The next question is a lot harder. I hate seeing any engine run hot. With the 180 t stat it will run at 180-185. Normal hills it will jump to around 190- 195 then the hill levels off and it will back to 180 ish. On extream up hills or towing I would like to keep it under 205 degrees. When it reaches 210 you should have done something about it way before then. Quick fixes to lower temp is to back off the gas, slow down, drop your transmision in second, keep rpm's higher, turn on your heater, and let the engine cool off before you get on the gas again. Never tow with over drive on. When not towing and you see a hill coming take out of overdrive and let the rpm's sit a little higher then lower on the hills.
After hard driving do not shut your engine down when it is hot let it run for for a short time so it has a chance to cool off before shut down.

The tires I'am running are 32x9x16 Super Swampers TSL bais ply. One of the best off road tires ever. How are they on the highway you ask? There the worst tires on the highway of all time. Last year I took the family to Barkervile. We did 1900 ks in 6 days and I think my ears still ring from the tire noise.

Good luck:)
P.S. The futher you put your sending unit in the rad hose away from your engine the cooler your gauge will read it would be a good idea to add 3-5 degrees f to your gauge for actual engine temp or close to it.
 
I put the pro sport guages in mine and like them. The rad hose temp gauage is looking at the cooling capacity left in the rad. I put mine in the bottom hose to see how hot the water from the rad is. If it gets hot you have no chance to cool the engine. the stock guage is looking at the engine temp inside the thermostat system. (It should always be close to your thermostat temp) My clutch fan is coming on when the temp in the rad is around 163F

Don't buy the digital guages until they get them to stop flashing at low temp as it is annoying. The quality is good and they look cool. Don't look at the numbers as they are just cycling on start up.

I have a switch to monitor both transmission temp and water temp with the one guage. It works well and only cost another $9 for the prob

The hose adaptor is 38mm
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Thanks fellas,
I am ordering this today.

all the best,
T
 
okay, exhaust system...go see minute muffler on the corner of 52nd and 17 ave se..talk to Gary and tell him Wayne the land cruiser nut sent you...
also on 17th there is a rad shop on the south side of the street between 44th and 36th...can't think of the name righ tnow...

OR

you can buy my old LJ78 and you will have the custom exhaust, custom rad, lift kit etc etc etc and a parts truck for cheap...
if interested shoot me an email direct to wayne@crushersrule.com .
seriously, borrow your dad's truck and enjoy the drive.
 
keepin her cool

Tebo,
One of the best mods I did to my 2L-TE was changing the silicon oil in the fan clutch from std 3000 to 6000cts. Some people even go to 10,000 but usually only in places were it gets stupid hot.
A recent trip from Van Isle to southern Utah going over some high passes fully loaded and pushin hard went without a hitch. My H2O temp stays steady at about 95C. It's dead simple to do and is described by "Landtank" in one of his threads.
:cheers:
 

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