LJ78 Prado Axle Service How-to

[oldblue]

Have to agree, up to now I have converted 71 electric hubs to a manual engaugment system, and at least 95% had failed due to fitting back on without the brush's not being held back, the other 5% were just worn out brush's.

 

[Radd Cruisers]

i have watched your rant about the elec hubs over the last while and i have yet to see a single elec hub fail unless related to poor reinstalation proceedure.
i also have one of your adapter kits here on the LJ78 i bought and although it is okay i have had issues with the retaining bolts. i never installed the kit, Ryan did from Hilltop.
the elec hubs are just as strong as the old manual hubs plus they are held on with 10 bolts verses the old 6 bolt pattern.
i realize you are trying to make sales but instead of fear-mongering maybe just make a note that they are available.
personally, if i was to get rid of the elec hubs i would NOT stick another adapter spacer in there but change out the entire outter knuckle and do the job right.

Wayne;

You have not bought a set of adapters from me that I am aware of. Perhaps from Rob before I took over Radd Cruisers. There has been a revision of the adapters to make them more suitable to fit other brands of hubs now.

Locally, there have been quite a number of sets installed and there have been no problems with them, and no bolts or studs have come loose. I like to follow up on what the general consensus of the hub adapter experience has been and it's been all good right across the board.

The adapter itself is held to the hub with 4x grade 10.9 allen heaad bolts and located by the two dowel pins. The locking hub is further held in place by the 4 through bolts and two hub studs that thread into the adapter plate, and are centered by two dowel pins. The through bolts and the two studs are locked into place with the factory cone washers. There is more than enough captured material to ensure strength of the adapter - a total of 8 fasteners holding down the adapter and 6 holding down the locking hub. And, again, I have not seen any properly installed adapters come loose or fail. Further, I have not even seen poorly mounted units fail.

The only times I hear of people having problems with hub studs or bolts is when they use silicone instead of the paper gaskets to install the parts. Still, I have not seen a single performance related issue with the hub adapters other than some grease tracking from an early prototype set that was put in place by the customer with silicone and not paper gaskets.

Why the replacement adapters? Pretty simple really, the electric hubs do fail. The number one most common problem is when the hub is installed without the brushes held back with a piece of wire (note that I made a post to the effect very early on is this thread as a warning to those with E-hubs).

I don't have an issue with the strength of the E-hubs at all, but as you like to always rant about parts availability and costs, here's my rant: Electric locking hub service parts are NOT available (ask Dave in Japan if you don't believe me). You can buy all-new hubs but at huge cost.

Failures do happen as well, out of the 4 HZJ73s that I own, two have hubs that have failed at inconvenient times in the snow.

If the hubs are working then great, leave them in place. Personally, if I was going to wheel a truck hard then I'd remove them and either put on adapters or remove all the parts related to the E-hubs and install manual Aisins.

To each their own, but I am not a big fan of the electrics when there is a good manual hub option.

Next you guys are going to want an auto-shifting transfer case and push button low range... Funny how anyone with either of those features (where it gets used more than just a little) cries out for a manual shift.

~John

 

[Rich Sims]

Hi All, doeas anybody sale electric hub brush kits?

 

[cambelt]

Thread update
If we get enough people wanting E hub parts it may be worth searching japan for the parts or getting some bits made up .
Its mostly brushes and brush springs that people need , maybe a motor at the worst.
Dave

 

[Rich Sims]

Do toyota still sell the parts for these?

I've just made a new brush for mine for now but would like to carry spares..

 

[Ganbayar]

hi, i need hub lock motor like this photo.
how and where to buy hub lock motor?
i have Land cruiser 78, 1995 years.

sorry my bad english

 

[NZCruisers]

Wayne;

You have not bought a set of adapters from me that I am aware of. Perhaps from Rob before I took over Radd Cruisers. There has been a revision of the adapters to make them more suitable to fit other brands of hubs now.

Locally, there have been quite a number of sets installed and there have been no problems with them, and no bolts or studs have come loose. I like to follow up on what the general consensus of the hub adapter experience has been and it's been all good right across the board.

The adapter itself is held to the hub with 4x grade 10.9 allen heaad bolts and located by the two dowel pins. The locking hub is further held in place by the 4 through bolts and two hub studs that thread into the adapter plate, and are centered by two dowel pins. The through bolts and the two studs are locked into place with the factory cone washers. There is more than enough captured material to ensure strength of the adapter - a total of 8 fasteners holding down the adapter and 6 holding down the locking hub. And, again, I have not seen any properly installed adapters come loose or fail. Further, I have not even seen poorly mounted units fail.

The only times I hear of people having problems with hub studs or bolts is when they use silicone instead of the paper gaskets to install the parts. Still, I have not seen a single performance related issue with the hub adapters other than some grease tracking from an early prototype set that was put in place by the customer with silicone and not paper gaskets.

Why the replacement adapters? Pretty simple really, the electric hubs do fail. The number one most common problem is when the hub is installed without the brushes held back with a piece of wire (note that I made a post to the effect very early on is this thread as a warning to those with E-hubs).

I don't have an issue with the strength of the E-hubs at all, but as you like to always rant about parts availability and costs, here's my rant: Electric locking hub service parts are NOT available (ask Dave in Japan if you don't believe me). You can buy all-new hubs but at huge cost.

Failures do happen as well, out of the 4 HZJ73s that I own, two have hubs that have failed at inconvenient times in the snow.

If the hubs are working then great, leave them in place. Personally, if I was going to wheel a truck hard then I'd remove them and either put on adapters or remove all the parts related to the E-hubs and install manual Aisins.

To each their own, but I am not a big fan of the electrics when there is a good manual hub option.

Next you guys are going to want an auto-shifting transfer case and push button low range... Funny how anyone with either of those features (where it gets used more than just a little) cries out for a manual shift.

~John

Yeah man , I agree totally

Lovin my manual hubs

 

[CaptRonn]

Wayne;

You have not bought a set of adapters from me that I am aware of. Perhaps from Rob before I took over Radd Cruisers. There has been a revision of the adapters to make them more suitable to fit other brands of hubs now.

Locally, there have been quite a number of sets installed and there have been no problems with them, and no bolts or studs have come loose. I like to follow up on what the general consensus of the hub adapter experience has been and it's been all good right across the board.

The adapter itself is held to the hub with 4x grade 10.9 allen heaad bolts and located by the two dowel pins. The locking hub is further held in place by the 4 through bolts and two hub studs that thread into the adapter plate, and are centered by two dowel pins. The through bolts and the two studs are locked into place with the factory cone washers. There is more than enough captured material to ensure strength of the adapter - a total of 8 fasteners holding down the adapter and 6 holding down the locking hub. And, again, I have not seen any properly installed adapters come loose or fail. Further, I have not even seen poorly mounted units fail.

The only times I hear of people having problems with hub studs or bolts is when they use silicone instead of the paper gaskets to install the parts. Still, I have not seen a single performance related issue with the hub adapters other than some grease tracking from an early prototype set that was put in place by the customer with silicone and not paper gaskets.

Why the replacement adapters? Pretty simple really, the electric hubs do fail. The number one most common problem is when the hub is installed without the brushes held back with a piece of wire (note that I made a post to the effect very early on is this thread as a warning to those with E-hubs).

I don't have an issue with the strength of the E-hubs at all, but as you like to always rant about parts availability and costs, here's my rant: Electric locking hub service parts are NOT available (ask Dave in Japan if you don't believe me). You can buy all-new hubs but at huge cost.

Failures do happen as well, out of the 4 HZJ73s that I own, two have hubs that have failed at inconvenient times in the snow.

If the hubs are working then great, leave them in place. Personally, if I was going to wheel a truck hard then I'd remove them and either put on adapters or remove all the parts related to the E-hubs and install manual Aisins.

To each their own, but I am not a big fan of the electrics when there is a good manual hub option.

Next you guys are going to want an auto-shifting transfer case and push button low range... Funny how anyone with either of those features (where it gets used more than just a little) cries out for a manual shift.

~John

I have a KZJ-78. From what I understand all I need to do is order the Aisin kit 43530-60042 and remove the electric hubs and install these? Am I correct?

 

[oldblue]

You can't fit manual freewheel hubs on without a 14mm spacer, because your main hubs is 14mm shorter that a none electric hub, hence why you need a spacer.

 

[CaptRonn]

You can't fit manual freewheel hubs on without a 14mm spacer, because your main hubs is 14mm shorter that a none electric hub, hence why you need a spacer.

OK. So what is recommended? I believe you make a mod for the electric hubs that can be released or engaged if the electric fails?

 

[oldblue]

Yes I do a manual conversion here in NZ, the only problem is the freight and you would need to send me the end caps and follow some instructions on fitting the dummy motor into your hub body's. I used to do a Mk 2 conversion but stopped making them mainly because when you manually engage your hubs you know they are locked. Piece of mind. You can email me if want to take it further.