Lj70 2.4td 1986 green turbo light (2 Viewers)

[Stevevoid]

Hi all
I’ve been trying to get to the bottom of power problems on my Lj70, it was lacking power lower down in the rev range, when the turbo kicked in (green light working), it was better but still sluggish. I left the vehicle with a garage this morning to tweak the fuel input on the pump, I’ve just got the vehicle back and realised that the turbo light no longer works... no apparent boost, if that light doesn’t go green then is the turbo shot? Do you think it’s likely he’s broken it? There’s more black smoke than yesterday but no more power, I’m guessing the fuel needs turning down slightly so the black smoke only appears at first, when I accelerate, then clears up when the revs are constant but I’m hoping the turbo isn’t buggered, any help much appreciated! Thanks

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

To check your turbo, remove the inlet hose so you can see the compressor. Spin the shaft by hand and make sure it spins freely. Feel for side/side play. There should be a little bit (journal clearance), but the blades should not touch the housing. Check for in/out play. There should be none basically. You can also remove the dump pipe from the turbine housing and check to make sure there is no oil leaking into the exhaust from the seal. Also, check the cross over pipe for oil from the compressor seal.

If it all looks ok, you should really get a boost gauge and pyrometer. This will tell you what is going on. It'll tell you if the turbo is working right (boosting), and it'll tell you if you have too little or too much fuel.

Hopefully the shop you took your vehicle to did not just crank up the main fuel screw. If you're seeing black smoke, I'd take it back to them and have them put the screw back exactly how it was before they forget.

Have you checked your fuel filter and air filter?

 

[Stevevoid]

Thanks for your reply, fuel filter and air filter are almost new. I suspect he has turned up the main fuel screw, that was what he was playing around with.. if he has turned it up too much would that have killed the turbo? It’s been spitting a bit of oil out for a while, it was on my radar to replace, when I got it back from the garage today, there was definitely more oil than usual coming out of the joint on the intake manifold!
I’m going to chat to him on Monday and I’m also going to find a standard exchange turbo. If turbo is dead, is it a bad idea to drive with it like that or should she stay off the road until new turbo is fitted? Thanks again

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Thanks for your reply, fuel filter and air filter are almost new. I suspect he has turned up the main fuel screw, that was what he was playing around with.. if he has turned it up too much would that have killed the turbo? It’s been spitting a bit of oil out for a while, it was on my radar to replace, when I got it back from the garage today, there was definitely more oil than usual coming out of the joint on the intake manifold!
I’m going to chat to him on Monday and I’m also going to find a standard exchange turbo. If turbo is dead, is it a bad idea to drive with it like that or should she stay off the road until new turbo is fitted? Thanks again

Sometimes oil can come from the crank case vent also, so it's still worth checking the turbo for play etc. Sounds like it is probably worn out though. Many of us with these motors have bought new Chinese CT20's or just the CHRA and have had good luck. I've been running my Chinese CHRA at 20psi for the last couple years and it's still going strong. Make sure you buy the right one for the year of your engine; there are a couple of variants.

 

[Stevevoid]

Ok thanks, I’ve been looking at standard exchange reconditioned turbos which come in at around 350 euros (I’m in France), though I have seen new (possibly Chinese ones) online cheaper than that, I guessed it was best to go with an original but reconditioned instead of an unknown make but you’re saying you’ve had a good experience? If I’ve understood correctly, the 20psi you’re running yours at is a lot higher than the original would go to? Is this ok for the engine? Thanks!

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Ok thanks, I’ve been looking at standard exchange reconditioned turbos which come in at around 350 euros (I’m in France), though I have seen new (possibly Chinese ones) online cheaper than that, I guessed it was best to go with an original but reconditioned instead of an unknown make but you’re saying you’ve had a good experience? If I’ve understood correctly, the 20psi you’re running yours at is a lot higher than the original would go to? Is this ok for the engine? Thanks!

The chinese turbos I'm talking about are the typical ones you see on Ebay. They are usually much cheaper than an OEM reconditioned one. Either would probably be fine for you. An OEM reconditioned one is probably better quality.

I have a 2LTE which is different than the early 2LT you have. Around 1989 Toyota changed the motor quite a bit. The 2LT became the 2LT-II and the 2LTE (depending on market). They actually improved the turbo at this point also, but I don't think it's backward compatible to the early 2LT. I've intercooled my motor, so am able to run more boost without the negative impact of hotter air from the turbo. Without an intercooler you'd only want to run about 12-14psi maximum or so. Boost does not hurt these motor. High EGT's and high water temperatures are what hurt the motor. Usually more boost results in lower EGT. To change boost level and injection pump tune you must have a boost gauge and pyrometer.

 

[AirheadNut]

Does the 2L-T have a similar boost sensor setup to the 2L-TE? If so its possible that the hose for the sensor has come off and therefore the turbo light won't light up. Not sure why that would effect power unless the same line fed the boost compensator.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Does the 2L-T have a similar boost sensor setup to the 2L-TE? If so its possible that the hose for the sensor has come off and therefore the turbo light won't light up. Not sure why that would effect power unless the same line fed the boost compensator.

I think the same line does feed the boost comp. Definitely something to check!

 

[Stevevoid]

The mechanic had forgot to put a vacuum tube back! Theres a T piece that joins up the injection pump to the engine intake and vacuum switch? Anyway he had blocked it off to see if that affected power and left it off, this was stopping the turbo boosting / green light coming on.

 

[Dprio34]

@Stevevoid , There are two Boost Sensors on pre-1990 LHD LJ70s between the battery and the master cylinder mounted on the fender. Green Light comes on about 1.6 psi of boost & Red Light illuminates at abut 9-10 psi. Yes, there is a "tee" with vacuum lines closer to the Intake Manifold and at the Sensors themselves. You can trace the vacuum lines up to the sensors/sending units on the inside of the fender. Sorry, I didn't see you post earlier to save you some time.