Limp mode advice -'17 LC

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The errors after dead battery are fairly normal. The number of start cycles to clear them varies on the errors. A simple scan gauge would have been able to clear them.

The OEM remote start module PT398-60160

2016 Toyota Land Cruiser Remote Engine Starter - ToyotaPartsDeal.com
Thanks. I've had a few dead batteries and it was never remotely like this, so maybe this was just bad luck. I've heard disconnecting the battery might clear them. I didn't know that at the time but will keep a wrench in the car to avoid being stranded. The reduced engine power error pretty much disabled the car from safe driving in my area. The brake error is odd, but I suspect you are right that it reflected the battery malfunction.

I restarted the car four or five times and the errors didn't clear. I've heard that sometimes the car has to be off for a defined time period - like 10'minutes- to clear. The fact that the errors cleared by the time the dealer looked at the car 3 hours later suggests this is true.

The fact that nobody has seen this particular malfunction suggests it was more bad luck than bad design. Hopefully that is the case and I won't have to repeat this fiasco Any time soon.
 
Guys,
New LC owner (but long time Sequioa/4Runner owner -25 years with terrific reliability ) who is hoping for some advice and insight on some problems I've had with my 2-month old LC.
About a month after buying the car I noticed the parking lights would stay on at odd times. The parking light setting is above the auto setting on the light stick, but I never use it. It seemed related to having opened the rear hatch but it was hard to replicate. Despite being in "auto mode" for lights, I know of at least one time when the parking lights were on for 5 hours. It was hard to get them to go off, though I later realized that mashing "lock" on the key fob 2-3 times would turn them off. I couldn't explain it but wondered if it was related to the non-OEM remote starter the dealer installed when I purchased the car. Regardless, it made me extra careful when ever I left the car to ensure the lights were off.

I returned from a 3 day trip only to be greeted by a dead battery at the airport. To say I was po'd was an understatement. The car was 6 weeks old. Unfortunately it got Worse from there. The car jump started easily but I immediately got several error messages that engine power was limited, the brakes were offline, and the trac4 light and engine service lights were on. This was, as I later learned, an indication that the car was in "limp" mode. Essentially you step on the gas and...nothing happens. The car would roll at about 15-20 mph but I really doubted it would go up hill because flooring the gas does nothing. I went about a mile on a flat road near the airport but realized there was no way I was going to make it home. I pulled over, contacted Toyota safety Connect, and had the car towed. I did try restarting the car a few times with no change. I left it off a couple minutes between starts. I called the dealer to see if there was any way I could get out of limp mode on my own and they said "no". I was confident that this was related to a drained battery and not an actual mechanical issue so I was hopeful here would be a way to reset it. So I stood there and watched my new $$$$ LC get towed away. So much for reliability.

It was taken to the nearest dealer. When they finally got to it several hours later it started fine and was not in limp mode. This suggests the problem times out though I don't know the time required. The dealer did check the battery and determined there was a higher than expected drain while the car was off. They were suspicious of the non OEM starter also, but wouldn't touch it because they didn't install it.

Has anyone else experienced limp mode from a drained battery? It seems like a real programming flaw to me and makes me paranoid that it will reoccur whenever the battery runs down. Any problems from non-OEM remote starters? At his point I'd happily take it off because I can't afford for this to happen again. Thanks for any insights you can provide.
Just happened to me, bone stock 15 LC, dammit. Running to see if the battery will get stronger, otherwise the dealer tells me it must be replaced. Not where I can run a charger to it. Piss poor design by Toyota to go to limp mode.....
 
Just happened to me, bone stock 15 LC, dammit. Running to see if the battery will get stronger, otherwise the dealer tells me it must be replaced. Not where I can run a charger to it. Piss poor design by Toyota to go to limp mode.....
By the way, when shifting into drive the transmission "slams" into 4 Lo. Is this normal??
 
Update: After letting it run a while and shutting off for an hour, it restarted fine and drove normally, although the 4 L and check engine symbols both flash on the instrument cluster and AC won't work also. Now on a charger overnight to see if the weak battery will recharge sufficiently to bring the electronics back to normal. Ridiculous.
 
Update: After letting it run a while and shutting off for an hour, it restarted fine and drove normally, although the 4 L and check engine symbols both flash on the instrument cluster and AC won't work also. Now on a charger overnight to see if the weak battery will recharge sufficiently to bring the electronics back to normal. Ridiculous.

Weird. Every manufacturer has their bizarre electrical nuances, my old BMW where if the battery light in the dash is burned out or unplugged, the alternator won't charge the battery is a good example.

Hopefully, you'll get it fixed by clearing codes and charging (or replacing) the battery.
 
Weird. Every manufacturer has their bizarre electrical nuances, my old BMW where if the battery light in the dash is burned out or unplugged, the alternator won't charge the battery is a good example.

Hopefully, you'll get it fixed by clearing codes and charging (or replacing) the battery.
Overnight charge did not clear the instrument panel flashes on the 4 LO and check engine light---off to the dealer to clear the codes and/or replace battery--ridiculous.
 
Bummer you may have to put a new battery in a '15. That's most likely the problem and they do go bad, but the Toyota TrueStart are usually good for more than 2-3 years.

A $39 code reader from Amazon or a local auto parts store would let you clear codes, if that were of interest.
 
Bummer you may have to put a new battery in a '15. That's most likely the problem and they do go bad, but the Toyota TrueStart are usually good for more than 2-3 years.

A $39 code reader from Amazon or a local auto parts store would let you clear codes, if that were of interest.
Good news. After I called the dealer on the way to work (with no AC due to the codes) that I would be coming in about noon to clear the codes and potentially change the battery, when I later started the LC to make the trip THE CODES WERE GONE, AC worked fine--problem solved. As RobRed pointed out, apparently after a number of start cycles, the electrical boffins get cleared. This was probably the 5th start cycle or so.
 
Good news. After I called the dealer on the way to work (with no AC due to the codes) that I would be coming in about noon to clear the codes and potentially change the battery, when I later started the LC to make the trip THE CODES WERE GONE, AC worked fine--problem solved. As RobRed pointed out, apparently after a number of start cycles, the electrical boffins get cleared. This was probably the 5th start cycle or so.

FYI this type of glitch also occurs in other vehicles when battery is low or removed. Requires multiple start-stop cycles
 

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