light timers (1 Viewer)

[LandCruiserPhil]

I would imagine she has all 3- black, white, and bare copper. However, the black is probably the power coming in, the white is the switched leg going back to the fixture. Both hot. Copper would be the ground. I see a lot of older houses with lights wired that way- the power feed goes directly to the fixture box, then sent to the switch box and back over one Romex cable.

If wired by a electrician the white will be your feed/hot wire and black will be the switch leg/load.

 

[-Spike-]

OK, I don't pay a lot of attention. Are houses still wired that way? I don't see it much in newer homes.

 

[Spook50]

If wired by a electrician the white will be your feed/hot wire and black will be the switch leg/load.

Just Double checked my electrical book (Stanley) and it should be black = hot (which goes through the switch and to the fixture, white = neutral/return (going from the fixture to the neutral bus bar in the breaker box), and bare copper = ground (connected to the green screw or lead on the switch, and leading to the cold water pipe or house's ground rod).

A timer switch should connect to all three wires, if not at least the black one and the bare copper.

 

[-Spike-]

Just Double checked my electrical book (Stanley) and it should be black = hot (which goes through the switch and to the fixture, white = neutral/return (going from the fixture to the neutral bus bar in the breaker box), and bare copper = ground (connected to the green screw or lead on the switch, and leading to the cold water pipe or house's ground rod).

A timer switch should connect to all three wires, if not at least the black one and the bare copper.

Standard wiring follows that scheme. Switched runs don't always. I'm sure LCPhil (an actual licensed electrician) can explain better than me.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Just Double checked my electrical book (Stanley) and it should be black = hot (which goes through the switch and to the fixture, white = neutral/return (going from the fixture to the neutral bus bar in the breaker box), and bare copper = ground (connected to the green screw or lead on the switch, and leading to the cold water pipe or house's ground rod).

A timer switch should connect to all three wires, if not at least the black one and the bare copper.

Google "switch loop wiring"

electrical book (Stanley) = Chiltons

NEC Handbook = FSM

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Standard wiring follows that scheme. Switched runs don't always. I'm sure LCPhil (an actual licensed electrical contractor) can explain better than me.

Fixed it for you

 

[-Spike-]

Enlighten me, oh contractual one- what's the difference?

 

[Spook50]

Google "switch loop wiring"

electrical book (Stanley) = Chiltons

NEC Handbook = FSM

OIC. Well then, that's on my list and the Stanley one can prop up a table leg once I get it.

Thanks for the recommendation

 

[cruiser88]

I dont think you wanna pay the 60 bucks a month but we got Vivint security system. The big bonus is I can control lights, camera's and HVAC from anywhere.

If its a big concern like ours was (her van got stolen) its worth every penny.

 

[LK1]

Why not just do a motion sensing light?

I have one that is dim and lights to full brightness as you approach it.

I think it's a bigger deterent than a light alone.

 

[Bogo]

don't knwo about the honeywell. i ordered the intermatic. only requires hot and ground, which is all i've got

I would imagine she has all 3- black, white, and bare copper. However, the black is probably the power coming in, the white is the switched leg going back to the fixture. Both hot. Copper would be the ground. I see a lot of older houses with lights wired that way- the power feed goes directly to the fixture box, then sent to the switch box and back over one Romex cable.

Older houses often have just a pair of wires going to a light. No ground even. Inline in that pair will be a switch on the hot leg. This wiring method is no longer allowed by NEC. To meet NEC now there must be a ground for all new wiring. In some areas an electrician that works on that circuit would have to add a ground, but it can stay as is if not worked on.

 

[toy4xfun]

look i have used the timers that fit in your switch box and have not had one last for more than a year.

and i tried a lot of different ones, the best thing you could do is have a neighbor check in on the place while you are away.

 

[Bogo]

look i have used the timers that fit in your switch box and have not had one last for more than a year.

Have you tried Leviton? The one I have in my barn is a decade old and still going strong. I use it to turn on and off the night lighting over the cattle stalls.