light timers (1 Viewer)

nuclearlemon

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i know there are timers that go inline with corded lamps, but what if you only have hardwired ceiling lights. is there some sort of timers for those? i'd like to do something like that now that a second house on my block was broken into.
 

nuclearlemon

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try levitron, lutron or cooper, one of them should have something. And I believe if they are designed for three way they usually have provisions to be wired as a single switch.
 
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that's a permanent mount. i'm hoping to find something that doesn't have to be wired in. the permanent mount ones require three way wiring, which i don't have. it would be a total beatch to run another wire

Dunno how you're gonna interrupt the electricity without breaking the path, and that requires a permanent mount in a hard wired application. There are several options that replace the switch in the circuit, either a self-contained timer or a remote control. No additional wires are necessary for any of the timers or remotes that I've seen.
 

D'Animal

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Why don't you buy the ones that plug into the wall socket and your lamp plugs into them?

Most people use them with their outside christmas lights.
 
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that's a permanent mount. i'm hoping to find something that doesn't have to be wired in. the permanent mount ones require three way wiring, which i don't have. it would be a total beatch to run another wire

I am holding an Intermatic E140C battery powered in wall timer....it would have to be wired in, but does not require a neutral, so if there are only 2 wires going to the existing switch, this timer should still work as it only needs the incoming hot leg and the switched leg...you would only have to make sure you knew which wire on the old switch was the hot side, and tie it to the hot side of the timer; the other wire of the old switch would have to go to the switched leg of the timer. Shut power off first, pull old switch and remove wires and cap them w/ wire nuts, turn power back on and back probe the wire nuts with a volt meter to ground or neutral(nearby outlet can be helpful here...if you have a wiggy or inductive voltage tester, use it as well. Mark the hot lead, turn power back off and tie in switch. Make sure when you install the timer in the wall, there are NO bits of wire that are exposed, and where there are screw terminals(prolly not with these timers)make certain they do not contact the sides of the box(metal). Turn power back on. The hardest part will be programming the darn thing:hillbilly:set ya back a trip to the HIW and about 25 bones...HTH
 

Spook50

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Home Depot sells a timer that replaces the wall switch. A buddy has them and loves them.

x2 on these. He's probably got the Honeywell ones I got too. I love the s*** out of 'em. Use them for my exterior garage and porch lights. The "random" function is great for just that little bit of extra security (ex: if someone's scoping your house for a robbery, if keeps the lights from coming on at EXACTLY the same time every day).
 

nuclearlemon

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home desperate near me only sells ge which requires a third wire, so does honeywell. can't find any info on the e140c, but did find Intermatic EI600WC, which looks like it doesn't require a neutral. i'm gonna give it a shot.
 

Spook50

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home desperate near me only sells ge which requires a third wire, so does honeywell. can't find any info on the e140c, but did find Intermatic EI600WC, which looks like it doesn't require a neutral. i'm gonna give it a shot.

IIRC they only require hot, neutral and ground connections. That's how almost all home lighting circuits are set up (14/2 NM wire for a 15A circuit). What do the switches you found call for?
 

nuclearlemon

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don't knwo about the honeywell. i ordered the intermatic. only requires hot and ground, which is all i've got
 
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I would imagine she has all 3- black, white, and bare copper. However, the black is probably the power coming in, the white is the switched leg going back to the fixture. Both hot. Copper would be the ground. I see a lot of older houses with lights wired that way- the power feed goes directly to the fixture box, then sent to the switch box and back over one Romex cable.
 

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