Light cluster (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter DKW
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #3
When you turn the hi beaM on, you get a light in gauge cluster to show you it is on (its blue). is there a similar light to tell you the low beams are on. a modern truck will have a light in the dash to show you low beams are on. make sense?
Dash lights are on when you turn the stick to parking lights and on when you turn the head lights on. High beam indicator illuminates blue. This is NOT a modern truck. A modern truck will hold your hand and usher you into the nanny state of being protected from all your bad decisions. The 80 series will cause you to grow more chest hair (man or woman) and grunt at people driving lesser vehicles. Lane assist warning in this vehicle will be the tires rubbing up against another vehicle or a tree. Following distance sensors are on the front and rear of the vehicle, they are called bumpers.
No, there is no indication of having your lights on. My 1996 Lexus LS400 does have that indicator so I do know of what you speak.
No, there is no indication of having your lights on. My 1996 Lexus LS400 does have that indicator so I do know of what you speak.
Ouch on the buster cluster. Research the appropriate glue for the plastic, glue it back together. Gently scratch the protective clear coat off the copper on both sides of the break, solder the area and you are good.
- Thread starter
- #7
Thanks. My ref to a modern truck was just to give an example what I was talking about. Just replacing bulbs and wanted to check I didn't miss one
- Thread starter
- #8
All sounds good up until my soldering skills lol. Not sure I can get the heat on the copper without burning though it. I may give it a go before buying another or finding another way
I figured as such regarding the light cluster but just couldn’t pass up the opportunity you presented me when you described a modern truck. Cleaning off the varnish will make soldering hold faster and better. You got this.
- Thread starter
- #10
haha I like your confidence! i found a local electronics guy, and if he isn't cost effective I will give it a go. But I am rubbish at soldering, worst case $80 for a new one
Glue and solder are cheap. Every time I look at a repair/replace scenario I get all warm and fuzzy thinking about tool acquisition/repair vs the bland experience of buying and replacing a part. I guess that’s what makes MUD unique. Confidence comes from experience. Again, you got this.
