Lifting my cruiser from stock. Last couple questions.

[shogun2fire]

Did a lot of research on mud last night and seem to have a good idea of how everything works (Gunney's torsion post was extremely helpful!) and how they mechanically connect together. Before I get under car I just want to make sure I have the concepts down. For reference I have a stock 2000 Toyota LC.

There are two torsion bars on the front, one for each side of the vehicle. Tightening the screw that turns the torsion bar will raise the suspension. If I can't tighten it anymore and I didn't get as much lift as I wanted, I will have to reindex. I was wondering what is a safe lift height (2 inches?) before the setup becomes dangerous for the drive axles and other components.

As for the rear suspension, the way to lift the rear is to purchase new springs and shocks? If I recall, are the shocks are limiting the overall height of the rear? Are new shocks for the front neccessary for a lift?

I'm not planning on doing anything now and keeping the truck stock until I find I need more, so I will do the front torsion twist first.

My rear suspension does squeek when I drive over a speed bump, so I probably will look for replacement shocks (or it may just be a sway bushing problem).

 

[Anthony.L]

There are two torsion bars on the front, one for each side of the vehicle. Tightening the screw that turns the torsion bar will raise the suspension. If I can't tighten it anymore and I didn't get as much lift as I wanted, I will have to reindex.

Correct.

I was wondering what is a safe lift height (2 inches?) before the setup becomes dangerous for the drive axles and other components.

The key is the minimum droop in the front suspension, you can find this by search but I seem to remember around 40-50mm min. This is why you see aftermarket upper control arms, they allow more front suspension droop which in return means you could raise the front more. However most people enjoy the additional front droop without raising the height. The more droop the better the ride in bumpy situations and also in front end articulation off road.

A Slee diff drop kit is highly recommended, however many will argue not 100% necessary.

As for the rear suspension, the way to lift the rear is to purchase new springs and shocks? If I recall, are the shocks are limiting the overall height of the rear? Are new shocks for the front neccessary for a lift?

There are only two ways to lift the rear, coil pack spacers and aftermarket lift springs. OME lift springs sold by Slee and many others are basically the gold standard. For a small lift, without any additional carry load over stock I would recommend the OME 860 or 865 coil springs in the rear.

Droop is going to limit your front overall height well before the length of the shock. Same for the rear, the amount of lift provided by the lifted springs will be limiting factor. When you get into talking about longer shocks it's typically for more articulation and not necessarily overall lift height.

 

[lhommec13]

There are only two ways to lift the rear, coil pack spacers and aftermarket lift springs.

That being the case, would it make any sense for anyone to adjust the torsion bars to achieve a front lift, but not do anything for the rear? I feel like that would give a sagging appearance, but for some reason, I seem to recall some people only doing the torsion bars and nothing else. Did I miss something

 

[shogun2fire]

That being the case, would it make any sense for anyone to adjust the torsion bars to achieve a front lift, but not do anything for the rear? I feel like that would give a sagging appearance, but for some reason, I seem to recall some people only doing the torsion bars and nothing else. Did I miss something

Hmm good point. I guess I will just lift the front first and then wait to do the rear springs later.

 

[RobRed]

Many ppl lift the front to acheive a more level stance. I think most agree a minimum of 0.50 inches rake is needed, else the truck gets a bit skittish.

Right now I have OME torsion bars in the front and stock springs in the rear. 0.75 rake and it rides well. I have some 860s for the rear that I will install soon - still trouble shooting a front noise first.

BIOR has a diff drop kit as well fro about 70 less than the Slee.

 

[4Peanut]

I don't want to put words in Slee's mouth, but I think he'd refer to them as load, and not lift, springs.

 

[Anthony.L]

Slee is not the cheapest on the block, but I give them homage for developing the first diff drop for the LC 100. For that I will support and buy it from them (which I did).

 

[Manhattan]

Hmm good point. I guess I will just lift the front first and then wait to do the rear springs later.

Tires and a few turns in the stock torsion bars is a great first step. I think I lifted my front end about .6". That gave the truck a more level stance but kept the rake. Keep in mind, removing the 3rd row will "lift" the rear end 1/2". I set my torsion bars (turn, stand back and look, turn, stand back and look) with the 3rd row out - so that when in, I still had a bit of rake.

Side Note: ^Those^ are both 2006/7 100s. Just removing the running boards (have MT sliders now) and the flares and nudging the front up a tiny bit, gave the truck more of a "truck" look. By comparison, the other looks like a minivan.

 

[RobRed]

The mini van has street tires and flares which enhance that aura.

Sent from my iPad 2 using IH8MUD

 

[4Peanut]

1.5" spacer in the rear, front torsion bars cranked to level (about 22"). I have since lowered the front a smidge and installed OME 865's (netted me 2" of lift to start), so the truck has a little more rake to it. My spacers are for sale.