Let’s diagnose a top end noise (1 Viewer)

[Crocodile Tears]

Any thoughts from the collective on this noise? As you can see, sounds like a diesel at lower RPM, distinct rattle in the top end. The second video toward the end, at higher RPM, I don’t know if the noise is just being drowned out or truly disappearing. In person it sounds like it actually goes away.

Mechanic says valve adjust as does PO, but both attempted it and got nowhere with the noise. Mechanic was a bit of a shade tree type, though, and more used to a small block Chevy than a DOHC toyota

I began thinking timing chain, but videos online show that to be quite a bit nastier of a sound.

The truck is an overall good runner, and this doesn’t seem to affect it over the couple thousand miles I’ve had it. Uses a little oil on cold starts, but long trips at temperature it doesn’t consume. Hot starts used to take a while to crank to life compared to quick cold starting, but a fresh battery seems to have remedied that.

Im no expert on the 1FZ valvetrain - are there hydraulic lifters of a sort in there (obviously not a true lifter in an OHC setup)? I almost wonder if I had a collapsed lifter rattling around.

I do have a pretty good running wrecked parts 80, 1993 w/ 90k miles.This is a 1997 with 255k, so I would need to convert the OBD2 sensors over if I did a full swap. Head swap has crossed my mind, but if I can fix what I have and keep my parts for the future that would be ideal.

thanks

The bad lad in question.

 

[inkpot]

1FZFE motor does not adjust valves. Overhead cams require shims between the cam lobes and the valve stems.
Rumor has it that it can be done in situ, but all I have seen removed the head and did a complete headgasket/valve seal and adjustment all at the same time.

 

[Crocodile Tears]

1FZFE motor does not adjust valves. Overhead cams require shims between the cam lobes and the valve stems.
Rumor has it that it can be done in situ, but all I have seen removed the head and did a complete headgasket/valve seal and adjustment all at the same time.

I guess I say adjust valves after years of bikes with shims. Measure / replace the shims is the more technical term.

 

[BDUFPV]

1FZFE motor does not adjust valves. Overhead cams require shims between the cam lobes and the valve stems.
Rumor has it that it can be done in situ, but all I have seen removed the head and did a complete headgasket/valve seal and adjustment all at the same time.

Does that noise sound like a valve issue to you? Ive got a similar noise. I am going to do a leak down test when I have a chance. Cylinder 4 is missing pretty bad on mine.

 

[jpoole]

Although I assume that the noise is internal and that you've narrowed in on it a lot by hearing it in person here are a few ideas that may help you rule out possible sources of the noise in case you are still in that phase of the process:

• remove the belts and then run/test the engine to confirm that the noise is not a PS pump or similar on the front of the engine. Not necessarily likely but I've heard of PS pumps in particular making various sounds and this would be relatively cheap/easy to try and if for some reason the noise was one of the belt driven items you'd potentially save a lot of unnecessary head work/similar. Don't run the engine long without the peripherals operating to avoid heat damage...
• use a very long screwdriver (metal end on engine parts, handle against ear) and/or a stethoscope to try to isolate where the noise is. If it's valve train for instance you may hear the nose much more clearly with the screwdriver pressed against the valve cover or high on the head as opposed to having it on other components. This could possibly help you isolate if the noise is up high in the valve train, up front in the timing chain or oil pump or lower down.

You may want to couple the two recs above and do some of your testing with the screwdriver while the fan belts are off since this can allow safer access to the front of the engine.

 

[1911garand]

If this hasn't been done, remove the belts and try again. My 1997 sound identical to yours, thought the engine was coming apart. Ended up being bad alternator belt idler bearings and AC belt tensioner bearings - easy fixes. Sorry of you've already done this....

 

[BILT4ME]

Any thoughts from the collective on this noise? As you can see, sounds like a diesel at lower RPM, distinct rattle in the top end. The second video toward the end, at higher RPM, I don’t know if the noise is just being drowned out or truly disappearing. In person it sounds like it actually goes away.

Mechanic says valve adjust as does PO, but both attempted it and got nowhere with the noise. Mechanic was a bit of a shade tree type, though, and more used to a small block Chevy than a DOHC toyota

I began thinking timing chain, but videos online show that to be quite a bit nastier of a sound.

The truck is an overall good runner, and this doesn’t seem to affect it over the couple thousand miles I’ve had it. Uses a little oil on cold starts, but long trips at temperature it doesn’t consume. Hot starts used to take a while to crank to life compared to quick cold starting, but a fresh battery seems to have remedied that.

Im no expert on the 1FZ valvetrain - are there hydraulic lifters of a sort in there (obviously not a true lifter in an OHC setup)? I almost wonder if I had a collapsed lifter rattling around.

I do have a pretty good running wrecked parts 80, 1993 w/ 90k miles.This is a 1997 with 255k, so I would need to convert the OBD2 sensors over if I did a full swap. Head swap has crossed my mind, but if I can fix what I have and keep my parts for the future that would be ideal.

thanks

The bad lad in question.

View attachment 2429627

Listening to this on my phone, it sounds more like an exhaust leak at the eye in front of the cats.

If it's a hard clunk, check the power steering pump gear for marred teeth.

I'm betting exhaust leak.

On cold start up, slide under there and run your hand around joints and the eye and o2 sensors to find exhaust leaks.
For some reason, those sound like engine clunks on these.

 

[Grandlooser]

On your phone it sounds like exhaust leak and on my phone sounds like piston slap and or rod knock lol

 

[Crocodile Tears]

Yeah, I thought the video recording was fairly high quality, so I have to assume you're listening to this on a rotary phone or something

 

[brettk]

It’s hard to tell when it’s not in person, but I second the exhaust leak. Just had the same issue on my 22re and it sounded terrible.

 

[Crocodile Tears]

It’s hard to tell when it’s not in person, but I second the exhaust leak. Just had the same issue on my 22re and it sounded terrible.

That just strikes me as something that wouldn't dissipate at higher RPM, but I'm willing to try just about anything at this point. Hoping next weekend to get up there and try the belts off first an then root around the exhaust I guess. I'm picking up a stethoscope this afternoon as well.

 

[450LX]

To check for the exhaust leak remove your fan belt and use some toilet paper around the exhaust manifold. A little air will move that toilet paper and let you know.

 

[MMaxim]

I had similar sound a few months ago and it turned out to be a bag spark plug. It had a crack and was letting some of the compression to escape the chamber and into the spark well. I could see the spark plug boot lifting every time the cylinder would fire.

 

[DrStrangelove]

Did you ever figure out what this noise was?? I just bought a '97 for cheap with the exact same noise.

 

[Stevesnj]

HAd a similar sound, not as loud. After research and using a stethoscope it seems to be the timing chain slipper and guide needs changing. That's what I"m about to start doing on mine.

 

[DrStrangelove]

Mine seems to be coming from the rear of the engine, varies in volume. Somtimes cant be heard at all. Any ideas? Not super familiar with this platform.