Left turn signal goes on with brake application??

[gray]

Currently I'm on the road and am using a very very slow dial up connection, so have to ask this before searching.

Today I noticed after pulling off the interstate that my left turn indicator came on whenever I pressed the brake pedal. Later when back on the interstate, I also noticed that everytime I put on the left turn signal to change lanes, the cruise control would be disengaged, as if I had touched the brake pedal. I also noticed that when the brake pedal is depressed, the left turn signal light also goes on.

Only thing different is that three weeks ago before starting my trek I replaced a burned out left rear brake bulb along with the still good right rear brake bulb.(advance auto cheapies).

Seems like some threads similar to this have come up, just don't recall the details. Haven't had a chance to tear into it, but will first thing in the morning.

Any thoughts?

Edit; more info; went out to the vehicle; turned the key to on, engine not running; flipped on the left turn signal and I get an audible clicking from the center console next to the shift lever. Must be a relay under there I figure (never had it apart). No clicking when I flip on the right turn signal. I did notice a day ago while driving that the center console where your right leg rests against felt warm; never noticed that area to get warm before and was rolling it around in my little pea brain what would cause it to get warm; guess we know now, maybe I got a bad relay?? Will have to look into the FSM tomorrow to see which one.

Anyone with a similar experience, know the relay in question??

 

[aim]

Trailer wiring? In particular the kind that splices into the OUTSIDE connector over the rear bumper?

 

[gray]

I do have the trailer wiring connection hanging on the trailer hitch; the little black rubber connector with ?three pins coming out. That thought did cross my mind; I have been traveling up north in very bad weather, rain, snow, slush, salt, hot to subzero cold and back again; car washes to wash off salt, etc. If they short out do they cause these symptoms? Know a quick solution before I do any (more) damage? Cut or pull it off the main harness, and where??

 

[aim]

I had the kind of trailer wiring that plugs in up over the bumper (the plug is under the back, accessible from outside) and the kind that plugs in behind the rear plastic panels (accessible from inside the truck). In both cases, you just separate two plugs, and reconnect them minus the trailer wiring. All sort of odd turn signal behavior and burning plastic behavior was fixed when I removed the spawn of the *&S@ trailer wiring. My converter (from the additional wiring) melted; one turn signal was always on at half strength and would go off when I hit the brakes - stuff like that. Simple thing to try, anyhow. Good luck!

 

[landtank]

disconnect the module that is behind the right panel in the cargo area.

 

[gray]

Which module and what will it do, isolate the trailer wiring?

 

[landtank]

usually crap in the connector shorts out that module. Last month a guy pulled one out that was melted and had directional problems. Part of pulling out the module is a wire that runs under the door sill of the tail gate over to the driver side. If it's a factory module or a good one it is plug and play with the harness. Last month is was scabbed on with those staple connectors. Once removed check the fuses as that same guy blew 3 of them during the extraction.

 

[gray]

I had the kind of trailer wiring that plugs in up over the bumper (the plug is under the back, accessible from outside) and the kind that plugs in behind the rear plastic panels (accessible from inside the truck). In both cases, you just separate two plugs, and reconnect them minus the trailer wiring. All sort of odd turn signal behavior and burning plastic behavior was fixed when I removed the spawn of the *&S@ trailer wiring. My converter (from the additional wiring) melted; one turn signal was always on at half strength and would go off when I hit the brakes - stuff like that. Simple thing to try, anyhow. Good luck!

I have this type (typical for this model) trailer wiring harness with the connector that flops around in he wind.. Know how to disconnect it, or just disconnect the module per landtank?

If there is a short, that may explain the loud audible vibrating clicking from under the shifter console; coull be a relay getting hot from the short??

 

[gray]

usually crap in the connector shorts out that module. Last month a guy pulled one out that was melted and had directional problems. Part of pulling out the module is a wire that runs under the door sill of the tail gate over to the driver side. If it's a factory module or a good one it is plug and play with the harness. Last month is was scabbed on with those staple connectors. Once removed check the fuses as that same guy blew 3 of them during the extraction.

Thanks, this all gives me a starting point; will be sure to have the battery disconnected before fiddling with it. Wonder if I could just cut the connector off and tape the wires until I get home?? ie: a quick fix if the problem is all in the connector??

 

[landtank]

you could but if it's the plug in style that would be more work

 

[landtank]

just dawned on me it's the left turn signal, that wire I mentioned could be shorting to ground under that sill plate, it's un protected.

 

[gray]

just dawned on me it's the left turn signal, that wire I mentioned could be shorting to ground under that sill plate, it's un protected.

So best to open up the right rear cargo panel and find the module and then unplug the harness, if it has one?? If not, cut the wires? Anyone know where I can find a wiring diagram or visual, or will it be obvious once I open the panel??

 

[landtank]

it has the module, no other way to get the needed signals to the 4 wires below. The module if factory is double sided taped to the fender under the sub woofer. It should be obvious as hell.

 

[gray]

it has the module, no other way to get the needed signals to the 4 wires below. The module if factory is double sided taped to the fender under the sub woofer. It should be obvious as hell.

Thanks; sounds like the hardest part will be pulling out the three tons of crap I have in the cargo area after three weeks of traveling; still on the road and hoping to get this done before the weather goes to bad again.

 

[bertelsen]

same thing happened to my 98 tacoma , winter driving , lots of salt on the road. i removed the module and the problem went away. hope it works out for you.

 

[Beowulf]

The trailer wiring module is the likely culprit but first check the single green wire that is in the cargo area. It is easy to find once you remove the PS plastic panel in the cargo area. You should remove the sill plate first (5 philips screws) then just pop off the clips holding the panel. There is one screw-in fastener that is on the very rear portion of the panel. With the panel removed you will see a bare thin green wire that the idiots that port installed the "tow package" left unprotected and rubbing on the metal lip. Several have reported this wire being shorted to ground which will cause the symptoms you describe.

-B-

 

[harper68]

Check all of the light bulbs maybe one is burned out it causes mine to do weird things. I think eveyone else is on the right track though I had some issues with my trailer wireing harness as well just ripped the whole thing out.

 

[bhmmapping]

I had the same clicking problem several months ago. I disconnected the trailer wiring in the rear quarter panel and it went away.

 

[gray]

Just got home after driving ~600+ miles today; about 500 of which were in a constant torrential rainstorm; at least all the salt I picked up in the north got washed off. Thanks for all the advice above.

Everything makes sense (above comments); I was driving on about the worst roads in the northeast, covered in salt, freezing rain to solid ice back to rain, and then associated with massive expansion strips/roadbed heaving and giant pot holes with exposed rebar, etc, for hours on end; for sure shook something loose and/or pushed a bare wire up against metal, etc. I did have a ?small leak from a partially open sunroof which left a stain on the PS A pillar interior (headliner) material, but that was on the PS.

First thing this morning before heading out I opened the PS cargo panel, reached in and pulled the connector out that goes to the trailer wiring; but no change in symptoms. (did not check for the green wire at that time)

I noticed a few more characteristics; with the key in the on position, but engine not running, when the left turn signal is flipped, there is a loud clicking from the shift console; seems to be the brake/shift lever interlock switch I am guessing. You can feel a vibration from the console while it is clicking. This is the same area I noticed to feel hot a day or two before the symptoms began ie: the DS of the console where your right leg rests while driving; never felt it get hot there before.

More data: With the right turn signal flipped; no console clicking (normal operation). When the brake pedal is depressed both the left signal lights (front and rear) come on solid with the brake lights. Noticed also while idling if the left turn signal is flashing, the rpms dip when the light is on. Also, the left turn dash indicator lights up solid when the brakes are applied.

Will look for the green wire tomorrow, as long as the storm did not follow me. It was about the worst I have ever driven in; next time I'll get a hotel room and wait for the sun to come up.

 

[gray]

Looks like I just got a temporary reprieve; earlier today the symptoms persisted. This afternoon while on the way home I noticed that the symptoms mentioned previously just disappeared as suddenly as they appeared two days ago. Might have been the rough road I was on this afternoon which ?? knocked whatever was loose, back the other way, maybe.

I am sure it did not fix itself, just waiting to come back; any more thoughts?