leaky carb

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DustyFJ

DustyFJ

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Joined
Jun 2, 2009
Threads
64
Messages
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Location
Woodbine, MD
I switched back to the factory carb that stump helped me look over at the tech day. Hooked it all up, had to run a fuel return line as I wasn't running one with the troll hole carb. Set the fuel mix screw to 2 1/2 full turns out. Started the truck and RPMs shot way way up immediately. Turned off the truck, turned the fuel mix screw in one full turn. Cranked the truck and it seemed like it wanted to start, until I noticed gas POURING out of the carb. The inspection window was completely full of gas. I tried to point in the pictures to where the gas seemed to becoming from. Thoughts???

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Not a permanent fix but try tapping on the float bowl to "un-stick" the float needle.
 
The float seemed to be free and clean when the carb was apart. I wasn't using the fuel return line with the Trollhole carb. Do you think it could be blocked and filling up? So the fuel pump is just pumping and he fuel has nowhere to go???? Or is that notnpossible??
 
Mine was doing the same thing after CMCC. I guess I got some crap in there when I swapped fuel pumps on the way home.

The float bowl was completely full and leaking from the accelerator pump.

I was able to free the float by taping the fuel bowl so I could move it out of the garage.

I removed the top, cleaned it out good and then struggled with readjusting the float. I finally tried it per Pin Head's video and the level was spot on.


Good time to replace the accelerator pump if you haven't already..
 
Accelerator return spring was under the float. There is a perfect slot for it as if it goes there....but if its there the float will never curt off fuel....duh...I'll count it a learning experience.

The truck runs, but rougher than at its best. With the choke out RPMs go really high with the choke in the truck stumbles. I'm going to count that as a success and go watch walking dead. Tomorrow I'll mess with it.
 
jcj_78FJ40 said:
Mine was doing the same thing after CMCC. I guess I got some crap in there when I swapped fuel pumps on the way home.

The float bowl was completely full and leaking from the accelerator pump.

I was able to free the float by taping the fuel bowl so I could move it out of the garage.

I removed the top, cleaned it out good and then struggled with readjusting the float. I finally tried it per Pin Head's video and the level was spot on.


Good time to replace the accelerator pump if you haven't already..
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His videos are great, I used them when I did the initial rebuild and referred to them while I was troubleshooting. I forget which part (7?) but he forgets to install the same spring that gave me so much trouble; maybe its cursed...
 
Sorry I didn't check the carb before final assembly. You have to back of the fast idle adjusting screw to keep the engine from over revving when choked. Then you have to adjust the idle mixture by 1st getting the engine to run under 900 RPM (any higher and you are off the idle circuit). Start with the screw 2.5-3 turns out, then adjust the idle as low as you can go with the idle speed screw (not fast idle screw, it is easy to mix these up).
Look up the "lean drop method" for adjusting the carb. I never get it right and have to reread it every time. you need a tach meter and, ideally, a vacuum gauge to do it right.
 
So I tried dialing in that carb and couldn't truck is running like crap. My friend Howard noticed the intake manifold is cracked. Why did it crack? It was milled to match the exhaust a year ago. Does that mean the truck is running too hot??? Anyone have one to sell??
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That can be welded. I had mine welded about 15 years ago and it is still going strong. It usually cracks when the flapper in the exhaust fails and the exhaust is constantly directed at the intake. The differential heating and cooling of the manifolds (aluminum and steel) causes the crack.
 
Stumpalama said:
That can be welded. I had mine welded about 15 years ago and it is still going strong. It usually cracks when the flapper in the exhaust fails and the exhaust is constantly directed at the intake. The differential heating and cooling of the manifolds (aluminum and steel) causes the crack.
Click to expand...
The flapper seems to be moving freely. Not sure what else to look for.
 
here is a pic of the shield and a pic showing that heating the spring does turn the heat riser flap

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I dropped the manifold off at the local wield shop...150 bucks an hour...."probably an hour" I feel like I paid too much but its machined to match my exhaust so I didn't feel like paying for another used one then paying a machine shop to mill the exhaust and intake together
 
Welding shop left a message while I was on vacation and said they can't weld it with no explanation. Guess I'll pick it up Monday afternoon. I'll have to find another way to get it fixed.
 
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