Leak from clutch cover area

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Trying to get rid of some of the leaks on the cruiser. After a 400 mile trip this last weekend towing a small trailer with some off-road travel, I noticed a leak had become a bit more prominent. 1985 FJ60 with 180k on the chasis. Rebuilt engine maybe at around 170k but that was 12 years ago with out records.

One of the leaks is from the power steering pump. Ill probably do the saginaw conversion for that.
The other leak looks like it could be the oil pan, rear main seal or I don't know. Taking any and all suggestions.
I sprayed some degreaser and power washed the under side and here is what I see.(see attached)
The drip leaves the car and finds the ground via the clutch cover drain plug thingy.

After doing some reading I see that Ill have to remove the clutch cover to really determine where its coming from. Just hadnt had the time yet.

If its the Oil Pan Gasket, thats not too bad of a job from what I read. If it is the RMS then that entails removing the transmission and while i'm there I might as well replace the Clutch and throw out bearing?

What signs should I look for in either direction after I remove the clutch cover?

Thanks MUD, you're a gem.

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Jason,
It could be a couple things!
One it could be your rear main seal or your oil pan. Try cinching down the oil pan bolts. Not to tight just snug. It could also be the trans input shaft. Mine started leaking after I took a trip up north. It was so bad I had to stop at a jiffy lube to refill the trans case.
Also dab some on your finger and sniff it! You can tell the difference of both oils gear Oil is a lot stronger sent the motor oil.
 
Check the oil level in the transmission. If it pours out when the fill plug is loosened, that's likely the culprit.
 
Tighten the oil pan bolts a little. I changed my rear main and I still had a leak that looked like that pooling up inside the clutch cover. I just replaced the oil pan gasket and will get some oil in there soon enough. When I dropped the pan half the bolts were so loose my ratchet wouldn't engage.

Also, pull that cover off and check the nose cone cover on your transmission. I had to change that gasket when I did my clutch and rear main as it was leaking pretty bad. You can smell the difference between tranny and engine oil.
 
Thanks all. So I just got on the web to search the prices for a new oil pan.
Part number 12101-61011 hovers around $200. A superseded number of 12101-61012 is at around $50-$60.
Is there a difference? Calling @beno
 
And a shot of my pan, reason why I was scanning for a new one

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Thanks all. So I just got on the web to search the prices for a new oil pan.
Part number 12101-61011 hovers around $200. A superseded number of 12101-61012 is at around $50-$60.
Is there a difference? Calling @beno

The correct part number is 12101-61013

You also need: 90341-12012 and 90430-12031

But your parts expert should know that already.
 
That is most definitely where the leak is coming from. I would almost put money on a bet, but I am married to a land cruiser too and she writes the checks.
They have expensive taste don’t they? Could be worse tho
 
I see no leak. Count yourself lucky. Honestly. That truck is clean. Leave her alone and focus on something more pressing.
 
I see no leak. Count yourself lucky. Honestly. That truck is clean. Leave her alone and focus on something more pressing.
But his oil pan is smashed where it meets the block.
 
I suppose it’s got a small area that’s pulled down as if someone pried at it but honestly I see virtually zero leaks. I’ll show him real leaks.
Pull the pan, do the gasket and be done.
Honestly that little pouty lip isn’t gonna cause a big leak. The pan has a raised inner edge that’s also pressing the gasket up against the block. If it’s ruining him... Take the bolt out, take a wood block and a rubber mallet and gently tap the lip up. Or simply squeeze the pan edge up to the block lip w/ channel lockers. Then squish in some ultra black, add the bolt and see how it looks after a day or two.
 
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I suppose it’s got a small area that’s pulled down as if someone pried at it but honestly I see virtually zero leaks. I’ll show him real leaks.
Pull the pan, do the gasket and be done.
Honestly that little pouty lip isn’t gonna cause a big leak. The pan has a raised inner edge that’s also pressing the gasket up against the block. If it’s ruining him... Take the bolt out, take a wood block and a rubber mallet and gently tap the lip up. Or simply squeeze the pan edge up to the block lip w/ channel lockers. Then squish in some ultra black, add the bolt and see how it looks after a day or two.
I ran my sanding block across the mating surface to make sure everything was flat and true.
 
I’m going to tighten the bolts up a bit in the am. You can see the pan rim bowing in and out from bolt to bolt. Between the gear oil coming outa the knuckles, power steering fluid from the pump and this leak, everything smells the same or my sense of smell has deminished.
 
You can see the pan rim bowing in and out from bolt to bolt.
That's normal. It's like a big washer that's tack welded on. I'm not sure exactly why it's designed that way. Maybe someone else has an answer. When you take the pan off and remove the old gasket you'll see what's actually happening at the mating surface. Hopefully tightening the bolts will stave the leak for a while so you can address the knuckles and ps pump. I'd get after the power steering leak first. That stuff is extremely corrosive and will eat up paint and cause rust everywhere. I just replaced the leaf bushings on that side last night and they were completely destroyed from the ps fluid. My general rule of thumb is clean from top to bottom. Changing the oil pan gasket really isn't that difficult. I did it alone. It's just tricky getting it up onto the block.
 
tricky getting it up onto the block.
How tricky? Maybe I got off lucky that my truck is on monster shackles or I’m small... I used my knee to hold it up while I threaded in a few bolts.
 
How tricky? Maybe I got off lucky that my truck is on monster shackles or I’m small... I used my knee to hold it up while I threaded in a few bolts.
Just keeping the gasket lined up on both arches while keeping the sealant from getting wiped everywhere and holding it in place and getting bolts in place while holding the pan. I had my front end lifted like 100 feet in the air so I had plenty of room to move around. It was easier than I make it sound. Just a lot happening at one time. It's best to work out the order of operations and have everything set up for yourself before you even begin when doing somewhat complex tasks that require multiple actions at once. The biggest problem that I had was that my sealant started setting up faster than I expected so I just had to work faster than I wanted.
 
Glue gasket up first to block and hold it in place w/ the four corner bolts w/ extra washers added, let it tack up for an hour or so then add sealant to outer arches then add pan.

Def the way to go over glueing gasket to pan then to block. Pan arches are rounded, made zero sense to me.
 
Yeah, I did it the other way. I had a friend who was coming over to lend a hand but he got delayed and I had already begun getting the sealant on the pan. By the time I realized he wasn't going to be there and my sealant was tacking up I had to just do it fairly quickly.
 
Lil update. Up a bit closer to the front of the pan was another similar dent from what looks like a WHACK from above.
But check out the damage I saw once I removed it.
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Got the new pan on looks leak free for now.
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Also glued some closed cell foam down to the clutch cover.

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