LC OEM toyota cat delete pipe.

[jerryb]

please don't give me any s***. I'm not saying I'm going to cruise 50k miles with these installed. I do want them to test with, and specifically, I want the flanges welded on already with stock bends and measurements.

trying to decipher part numbers for post 05/2005 production for pipes without cats.
The OEM north american cat pipes have different numbers left and right, best I can figure (while they are installed) is that the only difference between them is the O2 bung orientation.

every other region, country, that have options for those two pipes for those specific late year 100 use one part number for those without O2 sensor bung welded in.
And additionally, if no o2 then only one number for both pipes.

in those instances, those with stock O2 bungs they're about 600-700 and 1000 plus for the north america.
These oem straight pipes are like 135$ (first look) SO without a description that specifically says, "straight pipe" obviously there's no cat in those 135 dollar pipes, correct?
being that the rest are all over 600
I was going to look for used cats, and I'd take them. But gutting them cleanly wouldn't really be possible.


Another thing. I don't see a reason to not look for the years between 08/2002 to 05/2005 years either. Or for 1998-2007 if you disregard the O2 bung/flange.

anyone done this?
does anyone know for sure both cat pipes for all years are the same orientation, same 3 stud flange front side and two bolt flange rear.
Other than the O2 location/bung/flange.

anyone know that?

stock NA

EXHAUST PIPE | Toyota LAND CRUISER 100 UZJ100L-GNAEKA UZJ100 | Parts Catalogs | PartSouq

If you are looking for EXHAUST PIPE Parts for Toyota LAND CRUISER 100 UZJ100L-GNAEKA UZJ100 then we advise you to pay attention to the range of our spare parts catalog for Toyota!

partsouq.com

stock GCC, GEN

EXHAUST PIPE | Toyota LAND CRUISER 100 UZJ100L-GCAEKV FZJ10#,HDJ100,HZJ105,UZJ100 | Parts Catalogs | PartSouq

If you are looking for EXHAUST PIPE Parts for Toyota LAND CRUISER 100 UZJ100L-GCAEKV FZJ10#,HDJ100,HZJ105,UZJ100 then we advise you to pay attention to the range of our spare parts catalog for Toyota!

partsouq.com

 

[mderrick]

did you make any headway with this?

 

[jerryb]

weird, how did you know? I installed them again last night. had some bungs welded, had some stock manifolds SAI intakes on the flange side welded shut. (but didn't install one side)
Today I'm techstreaming and whatching voltage on the narrow bands and see whats up. Loosely watching fuel vapor pressure. I didn't even know that was there before last week. While not a temp sensor there probably is some correlation. It's 100°f outside. No fuel boiling issue as I'm not installing the standard cat heat shields on these. They are just exposed. But with a beefed up heat shield on the drivers side, the one with the fuel in and out steel lines.

I did install some mini 02 sensor catalysts. they did not work right away. I accidentally installed them without a double washer so I might have damaged one side. I reinstalled with an extra washer which gives you the space you need for a small air gap at the tip of the narrow band.
I did squish both into the catalyst face inside the fitting because I just wasn't paying attention.

fast forward, reset with extra washer this morning, raising the tip of both sides, however, one side is still reading low voltage just under minimum. the other side seems ok at the moment.
In my testing the last two weeks or so, and seeing whats going on, I really thing there is a pressure/flow dependent constraint in the ecu parameters.
the common 420 on v8s vs the 430 seems odd. post narrow band ex leaks. etc, the ease that installing cat pipes and gaskets side to side. Lots of things to think about.

but seriously, the stock non cat pipes are pretty cool. there is no big noise change, closed loop open loop is the same either way.
There may be more exhaust smell. the jump and fall with the AC clutch rpm wise does happen faster. there is no dip in the rpm low valley around 600 like you might expect. Seems like there is slightly more get up and go. In the same way that removing the front wheel drive part of things gets you a more expedient get up and go. Same kind of feeling. Engine revs very nice.
Overall it's pretty decent. I'm not going to take them back out again until I solve the narrow band voltage thing 420 430 issue. Whether it's a mechanical fix or electrical.
I'm waiting on parts to build something.
Right this second I'm waiting for a cool down to get in there again.

the fit is perfect. identical both sides, all LC and LX just opposed o2 ports.

 

[jerryb]

nm

 

[mderrick]

so if i am understanding you correctly, these are basically straight pipes for with O2 bungs, and you are spacing the sensors out a bit to get the proper feed back from the sensors correct?

 

[jerryb]

I have those regular spacers and some mini cat spacers. those things have a layer of catalyst in them. Still testing them.

 

[landshark9]

Happen to have a name or part number for the regular spacers? Everything I've found isn't deep enough.

 

[jerryb]

any regular ebay spacers will work on the vvti, there's plenty of headroom for the extension.

I don't know what you mean, deep enough, pulling it out of the stream is the intent. Are you talking about something else?

 

[landshark9]

@jerryb Sorry that was poorly worded. I'm having trouble finding a spacer that is long/deep enough to allow the sensor to screw into it. The sensor bottoms out before the threads meet. I'll check out the eBay. Thanks

 

[jerryb]

I don't know that they work. I haven't had any problems getting the denso stock rear into any that I have. 1" long, there are 90° ones,
ones like this also. link

headroom is going to different between vvti and non vvti, also pass and drvs side differences, clearance wise.
copper crush washers work to if you happen to get too close to bottoming out. M18. There's enough thread on the rear stock o2 to use two O2 sensor washers/gaskets + a copper one. Plenty of thread left to screw in.

 

[mderrick]

what year are you doing this on? and how does it compare to a 2000

 

[landshark9]

Found this...We'll see if that's far enough out of "the flow!"

 

[jerryb]

it's probably going to be too far- below threshold.
Setting the 420-30 codes is like clockwork. BY the FSM I get them as stated, with the right time and rpm parameters.
I'm trying to build a timer with the right outputs. I think it's just going to take forever to get correct. I'd rather fiddle with two timers than spend 50 on another narrow band sensor and go about altering that.

 

[jerryb]

@Landshark I spoke to soon. What I forgot about is the 1/2" packing in the toyota non cat pipes. Where stockcat pipe rear sensor holes are going to be straight into the stream, plus your spacers. If I just thread mine in straight there's already an almost pre made 1/2" space because of the packing.
I haven't watched the output yet threaded straight in.

You could help my mission if you're techstream savy to watch the voltage on both rears from cold to hot idle.
Even more hepful if you could watch the switching on the front and rear sensors with the +12% and -12% fuel additions.
Just now I realize I didn't have the sensor temp in my chart.
Today and tomorrow I'm going to check three positions.
One straight in (with default 1/2" packing)
current o2 mini catalyst spacer. Which without a doubt it's too far away from the stream. (current set up)
90° fitting nothing between. might skip that because time/voltage will almost be the same as current set up. Well time rpobably, but voltage could vary.

after that, see what a timer circuit does to the ecu inputs.
after that weld in another bung on the 2" pipe rear of the bell, away from the packing so it could sit in a default position in the stream and then do it all again.

@white_lx said that rear sensors have some affect on fueling operations. On the vvti 100 in the US there absolutely is an affect
What I can see is an idle bump of about 50 rpm.
Much like if you add 12.5% fuel, in that wideband voltage goes down lambda falls to .8 and idle jumps about 40 or so rpm.
Lambda numbers are the same with or without rear or sensors. The wideband switching looks the same.
Drive wise there's no affect.
IDK if you can see any fuel maps in techstream like say if there's a switch happening away from Zero, or baseline mapps.
Non of this pertains to non wide band front 100, which should mean everything younger than 05/2005 Production.
It might work the same but almost certainly there would be more ECU comparisons, probably at a faster rate also. idk
im rambling.

 

[cool breeze]

Seeing this as one of the few threads about the secondary o2 sensors ill try you guys. Is there no simple way to turn them off, techstream, sims?
I was going non-fouler trick but the secondaries have a unconventional mounting style.

EDIT:

Read this thread again. Good info!

So now i see simply extended the secondaries out of the flow may not work for vvti engines, but mines a 2001.
Are the part numbers for the straight pipes off partsouq the exact same, just order 2?
#17401-50190

 

[jerryb]

no there is no simple way. People say spacers work, some don't. I couldn't get any variety of them to work. I would say the pipes are the same size as for any year.

 

[cool breeze]

Hmm wonder if this would work for our ecu's...

Toyota-4Runner.org

The Largest 4Runner Community in the World

www.toyota-4runner.org

 

[jerryb]

it might. I've read that one before. I doubt it would on the vvti but maybe for the non wideband sensor having 100s. The rears have way more effect than I would have thought.
I use a urd calibrator. It works well. That tool is the best thing for the vvti cat delete. It has filter and gain adjustments for each channel. So you can watch what's happening with time and voltage as you adjust on the ecu inputs.
As of late 2021 urd doesn't offer this anymore. There is a placeholder for a future product. Given the current state of worldwide conditions I doubt there will ever be a replacement.

extended reading about it here. If you can stand the back and forth of legality.

Toyota-4Runner.org

The Largest 4Runner Community in the World

www.toyota-4runner.org

 

[jsloden]

I know this is an older thread but am curious if these same part numbers would work on an 01. My state doesn't have emissions testing and would like to experiment with this. The rear o2's are different on my 01 though. They have the two 10 mm bolts on either side of the 02 sensor that hold it to the pipe. The front ones are like the ones you showed, that screw direcetly in.

 

[jerryb]

you can weld in any type bung you want. I'd switch to screw in on the rear sensors if I had an early version. They're cheaper anyway.
I don't know how much those pipes are now, but they were cheap, so I didn't care about the cost, in case I was wrong about fitting, etc. Part # should be the same on the pipe.