LC 200 Undercarriage Photos / Rust feedback (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Nov 7, 2019
Threads
5
Messages
24
Location
Idaho
This Land Cruiser is 5-6 years old.

How would say the rust underneath is looking for its age? Typical? Better than typical? Worse than typical?

If you were a buyer, would you avoid it?

Do you feel it's rust condition is good enough to consider having it as a long-term (10+ years) vehicle?

Thanks!

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Thanks to everyone for their comments.

Is the KDSS valve located under the black metal cover I circled in red in the picture below?

If that is the location, I will try to take a closer up picture of the valve itself and will post it.

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I took a few pics of the KDSS valve. Man, looks like metal items from a shipwreck. Is this concerning or normal on an LC200? What do you think can/should be done about it?

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If it is frozen it will prevent you from lifting it. If you can still get the bolts out, get it out and grease everything.
 
I took a few pics of the KDSS valve. Man, looks like metal items from a shipwreck. Is this concerning or normal on an LC200? What do you think can/should be done about it?

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That’s how mine look, so probably “normal”. 2016 and had 18,000 miles when I bought it (now 45k). Going to try and open them myself with all the suggestions found here on Mud, or have dealer look at them as a warranty item.
 
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Looks pretty good to me, other than the rusting KDSS valve block.

It's amazing to me that Toyota gets $80k for the flagship vehicle and can't apply enough quality corrosion protection to keep the vehicle from dissolving. Toyota has a history of putting out rigs that rust in unique ways. I had a 1983 Toyota pickup that the bed dissolved on after a few years. Some of the tacomas had the frames rust completely through.
 
IMPORTANT NOTE: someone mentioned getting the KDSS valves “out”.. THEY MUST NOT BE TURNED MORE THAN THREE FULL TURNS EACH.

If they move, which is a big if, go three, clean things up and put some LPS3 on there, then tighten to 9ft-lb while the rig is on level ground.

Issues with getting them to move have been covered extensively in the linked thread and much more on this board.

As for the rust.. if you lived somewhere rust wasn’t going to be an issue I’d say hold out for a cleaner one. But in Idaho it’s eventually going to be an issue anyway. This isn’t at all the worst we’ve seen.. as others said some prep and fluid film and you’d probably have a good truck.
 
Scares the Sh*t out of me. I'd rather start with a rust free "southern" truck and then blast with fluid film regularly since you're in Idaho. Those front suspension fasteners (LCA adjustment points specifically) look like they will be troublesome.
 
Fluid film washes off. Be prepared for at least a couple of applications over the winter. I plan on applying ACF-50 on mine. My first Cruiser after multiple Cayennes. Jut did my first oil change with a whopping 1100 miles on it and so far it looks good. Porsches are at least known for their corrosion protection. Pretty mild winter so far and the local coin op drive through car wash has an awesome under carriage rinse.
 
Surface rust you can get under it spray it with the Rustoleum hammer coat spray it real good with that it won’t rust any further because it’ll keep the air from reaching it I get under my truck every year and spray anything that’s discolored with the hammer coat my vehicles always look new even when I lived in Kansas City. Even though I live in Florida now I like my bottom looking clean all the time😎
 

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