- Thread starter
- #21
can this be because of air in the cooling system ? Because my issue started after coolant change
LC 100 lower Radiator Hose coming off
- Thread starter Rebin Rajan
- Start date
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Not likely, air will cavitate (run dry) a pump not make it pump harder. But if you suspect air in system, get the nose of the truck up higher than the rear and run the engine with the radiator cap off to burp it.
Did you bleed it well? Place your truck on an incline, higher the better, and run the heat both front and back with the cap open. Make if sure the thermostat opens. Let it fully cool and then check. Fill the radiator to the tippy top
Just below the overflow tube. Fill the overflow bottle to the line. You may have to do this twice. If you filled on flat found without a bleeder, air is likely, imho. I’ve done two radiators and tees this way. I mentioned the sensor because after verifying all else, that is the sensor responsible for reporting the temp, they are usually old, and cheap to replace. Do not over torque it and crack the front crossover.
Last, when installing the thermostat, did you make sure it’s right side up?
- Thread starter
- #24
I did the thermostat change from a garage
But during the coolant change i did not do any burping
- Thread starter
- #25
Just an update the car failed the radiator test for Co2
Oh no! I am really sorry to hear that.
- Thread starter
- #27
Getting head gasket changed… hopefully i
should get the results in a day’s time
I hope this overheating issue gets solved with this.
should get the results in a day’s time
I hope this overheating issue gets solved with this.
So you mentioned that this started with your coolant change. Were there any symptoms prior that made you want to do the coolant change?
Others, do you think that air in the system could’ve caused an overheat condition after the coolant change, perhaps no movement due to air space without the proper bleed, then boiling? I know with bleeding there is potential for lots of air. I’ve usually had to do two bleed cycles if not using pressure or vacuum.
Good luck op.
Others, do you think that air in the system could’ve caused an overheat condition after the coolant change, perhaps no movement due to air space without the proper bleed, then boiling? I know with bleeding there is potential for lots of air. I’ve usually had to do two bleed cycles if not using pressure or vacuum.
Good luck op.
Whenever you drain the coolant in the engine block by removing the drain bolt, or oil cooler lines, make sure you fill the engine FIRST via the upper radiator hose. This will ensure you get the coolant into the engine block and keep the cylinders from reaching high temps until the thermostat release the coolant into the engine block.
94SRUNNER
GOLD Star
Air in the system can cause all sorts of problems. It would be interesting to hear the symtoms prior to the work. If it was posted I missed it.
- Thread starter
- #31
I didnt notice any overheating before, just did a coolant change
Started to notice the overheat when the hose came off. I did not do a vacuum coolant change. Seems air in the system might be the culprit
What should be the ideal reading of the temperature on OBD2 reader
Use the an IR thermometer and check the inlet to the engine (thermostat housing) about 77-80 C and upper is about 88-90 C with AC running and ambient temp about 37C
- Thread starter
- #33
Below are the chain of events to summarize
1. As the car was old i thought of changing the coolant. So change the coolant by removing the radiator hose and filing new coolant (bought new coolant from Toyota)
2. Same day night i got a call from by building security that there is coolant leak from my car which was parked in the basement of my apartment. Saw that the lower hose came off, it came off while the car was in the parking space.
3. Next day reconnected the hose filled the coolant drove out of the basement and towed the car to the garage
4. Changed the thermostat and reconnected the hose refilled the coolant and took my car back to my apartment parking. Just before going for sleep went to check on the car and saw the hose was about to come off again
5. Next day again towed to garage. Changed radiator, lower hose, hose clips, fan clutch. And mechanic asked me to have a check on the temperature
6. While driving through traffic noticed temp going above the mid level.
7. Took the car again to garage, did radiator Co2 test came positive. Did a head gasket change
8. Did regress testing on the car, still temp goes up sometimes while on idle
9. Changed the water pump as well after that
10. The temp shows around 108c on idle
Now not sure what more to check
Note: Apart from the radiator all parts are OEM
1. As the car was old i thought of changing the coolant. So change the coolant by removing the radiator hose and filing new coolant (bought new coolant from Toyota)
2. Same day night i got a call from by building security that there is coolant leak from my car which was parked in the basement of my apartment. Saw that the lower hose came off, it came off while the car was in the parking space.
3. Next day reconnected the hose filled the coolant drove out of the basement and towed the car to the garage
4. Changed the thermostat and reconnected the hose refilled the coolant and took my car back to my apartment parking. Just before going for sleep went to check on the car and saw the hose was about to come off again
5. Next day again towed to garage. Changed radiator, lower hose, hose clips, fan clutch. And mechanic asked me to have a check on the temperature
6. While driving through traffic noticed temp going above the mid level.
7. Took the car again to garage, did radiator Co2 test came positive. Did a head gasket change
8. Did regress testing on the car, still temp goes up sometimes while on idle
9. Changed the water pump as well after that
10. The temp shows around 108c on idle
Now not sure what more to check
Note: Apart from the radiator all parts are OEM
