Lb Cake - My 62 build

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Nice work...will be watching and learning
 
Very cool. This will be a fun one to follow.

Question, since I have to do this on my truck and I know it's going to be an inevitability with your resto: what're your plans for body mounts?
 
I am using the energy body mount bushings from 4crawler as well as his 1" spacer lift. The original mounts were in pretty rough condition and they are really $$$ from Toyota.
 
Update -


After slacking for about a month, motor is in, body is on and everything is coming together. Snorkle holes have been drilled and snork has been fitted on. Motor fired up and runs sweet, I haven't put it on the road as there are some other things that have to be finished up. I am hoping to have plates on it by this week so I can start road testing the drivetrain. The interior is out while I lay down some soundproofing. Once that is done and the truck runs good its off to the body shop for some new paint.

Bad news: I fried the oil pressure gauge on the dash by hooking up the wrong terminal on the oil pressure sending unit. I don't get why Toyota designed the sending unit in such a way that makes it so easy to fry the gauge. I will be taking the gauge apart this week to see if I can trouble shoot the fried component and hopefully replace it.
 
I finally got some time to work on "cupcake"

Did the " Rodney " flush thanks to the info here - this forum rocks:cheers:. It is amazing how much info there is about these trucks and how to keep them running.

After the flush we started with the soundproofing. I ran a stiff brush on the bare floor to remove the remaining glued down carpet padding. This was a PITA to get out finally after a long time and a ton of "scrubbing" the padding was out, I ran a rag with some denatured alcohol to clean up any reside and then it was time for the sound proofing. I used some foiled faced butyl rubber construction flashing. It was peel and stick so it went on like the "commercial sound deadening products out there but for a lot less.

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Once this was done we started on the ARB compressor and locker lines. The lines were run within the frame using some 1/4" gas lines as " chafe guards wherever the blue ARB lines came came in or out of the frame rails. See the where the lines come out of the compressor --

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All that is left is to plumb the reservoir tank that is tucked behind the rear axle and to plumb the front and rear air chucks once the bumpers are in.

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A big thanks to Singha again for sourcing out the tank from a 2.5 gallon craftsman compressor that was in the garbage.

The motor is up and running rather nicely ( desmogged ). I removed the air pump and had a beatch of a time finding a belt to fit in there while running around the alternator.

I ended up using a dayco 22570 that I ordered from Grainger.

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a couple of weeks ago i busted my ass on my atv and broke my right hand and sprained my left - just in time to get her back from the body shop -

we started assembling her and looking for issues - addressed rear lock cylinder rekey, horn pin mod, lubed power locks - put on bumpers, grill, weatherstirpping, trim, all stock lighting, started interior door panels then took her for a ride to look for any more issues - still have some minor ones , once those are taken care off then the electrical work starts -wiring the lockers, compressor, gauges,winch,lights,stereo etc...

it's killing me that i can't do much to speed the job along. luckily i have a good right and left hand man working for me at the shop.
 
It's been said before but kudos on a great looking truck. That's the kind of attention my '62 really needs.

Great work, way to stick with it, too!

I hope you'll be OK wheelin' it and getting that first 'souvenir' from the trail!


Dan.
 
thanks but it is far from finished, we spent all day doing the timing - ended up changing out the throttle body because it wouldn't drop below 1000 rpm's (parts donor was best investment ever). finally got it to factory specs and took it for a spin. tires are relatively quiet considering there is no carpet and most of the side panels aren't on yet. this is my first set of firestones and these have not seen dirt yet but i have heard good things about them. got all the power locks working nicely turns out one of the wires on the tailgate lock wiring harness was broken just inside tailgate and lock would work intermittently. cut out bad section and rewired it from the harness plugs out - problem solved..

Yesterday we noticed a oil pan leak that seemed to come out of nowhere. a quick search of "MUD" and my thoughts were confirmed--- an invisible pin hole between the pan and skid plate. We pulled the oil pan off blown motor that was on this truck originally and cleaned it up. Tomorrow it gets painted and the bad one gets swapped out.

luckily i am blessed to have some good guys working for me. whenever work slows down we hit the landcruiser, thats the reason why we are moving along so quickly.
 
Nice build.

First time I've seen a bumper like I'm running.

thanks:beer:

i ended up buying the landcruiser because it had a strong motor and the alum bumper. i had second thoughts about the bumper but i really like how it came out. It's an Aussie BullBar. I am going to use Harbor Freights universal winch mount after cutting it to fit between the frame, once that is in i am going to box the front of the frame to beef it up.
 
Yesterday we noticed a oil pan leak that seemed to come out of nowhere. a quick search of "MUD" and my thoughts were confirmed--- an invisible pin hole between the pan and skid plate. We pulled the oil pan off blown motor that was on this truck originally and cleaned it up. Tomorrow it gets painted and the bad one gets swapped out.

That's quite a coincidence! I just replaced my oil pan for the same reason, I posted the pics here hoping to save someone else from the endless head-scratching that I did before I realized (with help and reassurance from 'mud guys here) that the pan was swiss cheese from rust.

It might be getting that time for a lot of '62's, the "mysterious oil leak" - I'm thinking a run on oil pans is in the near future.

I'd check that pan real well and double coat it with paint to avoid the same problem on the other pan. There's no paint or coating of any kind between some parts of the pan and the skid plate from the factory!


Dan.
 
just finished mounting up the winch mounting plate from Harbor Freight. I cut it to fit within the frame rails, a little trimming to fit in just right and some steel shims - about 1" total thickness and it is ready for the superwinch ep 9000 that is sitting at the shop. It is held in place by 6 3/8" bolts two vertically on each frame rail and two horizontally on the crossmember.

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I also installed a 80 series tranny cooler to help out the oem cooler on the rig. I had to heat one of the cooler output tubes with a torch to soften it up and bend it in the opposite direction. This worked out really well and has yielded no leaks. It was practically a bolt on install with some minimum drilling and fabbing. I had to make a bracket to hold the side that wasn't held by the hood lock brace.
You can also see in the pics the new Hella horns and the Diehard battery. The red heavy gauge wire goes from the battery through the wall where the headlights are mounted to (via grommets) then it is sleeved in pvc hose and wrapped in red electrical tape for additional chafe support it then runs inside the grill and to the other side of the vehicle where it goes into a terminal stud then a Perco switch for the winch. There is a blue sea fuse panel in the rear by the jack compartment that is fed from the terminal stud. This panel powers all the new electronics in the car (glowshift gauges, radio, cb,auxiliary lighting, compressor, etc...)
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Here is the bracket that was fabbed up. It bolts up to the same bolt that holds up the ac condenser.

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I have about 500 on road miles on them and love them so far. They are just a little noisier than my 305/70/16 KM2's on my FJC.

LOOKS AWESOME!
LOVE THAT BLUE!:clap:
I HAVE THOSE SAME TIRES
BUT NO MILES ON EM YET TILL MOTORS DONE
HOW DO YOU LIKE EM
 
great looking rig and well spec'd.

what did you use for the sound deadner? brand or location where you got it?

Thanks,

Clint
 
some new pics - I finally brought a camera to the shop!!!

winch and winch mount
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valance had to be trimmed as well as the hood lock bracket
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switch console - not 100% yet as the wiring is not finished and it has to be tightened down.
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smittybuilt console and seats - seats are plug and play no drilling needed
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perco switch, arb compressor, solenoid for alt fuse panel

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We sell it in our stores - here is the info on it

eCatalog Center - Product Detail.

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Size In x Ft=18 x 33-1/2

Mil=40

It sells for $90 for a box of 2 rolls - there are other companies selling similar products out there.



great looking rig and well spec'd.

what did you use for the sound deadner? brand or location where you got it?

Thanks,

Clint
 
great write up!! I also had the skid plate tack weld leak, but mine resulted in a spun rod bearing.

For the ex-airpump belt I used a NAPA 20583. I seem to remember wishing that I would have gotten one that was about an inch longer though.
 
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