Builds Layonnn's 1997 Locked 80 build. (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Nov 8, 2007
Threads
59
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2,101
Location
Baton Rouge, LA
This thread is copied and pasted from my thread over on another forum so at firsts it might not make any chronological sense. ;)

Most current picture first:

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And my co-driver/navigator:

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I thought about it long and hard, and made the decision i needed less of a car payment and more room. I need to get back into graduate school with some money saved up. I couldn't do that and still pay off the FJ at the same time so i decided to pick up an FZJ-80. (For some reason people on here think i am an old grumpy man, hahaha, i am 26, and also the youngest moderator)

I looked for 4-5 months and finally found a near stock one i really liked.
1997 Nightshadow pearl with tan interior and 156K miles.
Front and rear lockers


It spent most of it's life in MA so rust is a little bit of an issue. I plan on attacking any rust full force with some POR-15 and have a very experienced welder at my disposal to make any kind of brackets that i think are too rusty. For all other parts, CruiserDan is the man to go to (or the salvage yard :) )

I found it up near Atlanta, GA. So after some emails, phone calls, and a very nice guy over on mud (Scott) went to go take a look at it and give it a test drive, i booked my flight!!! The guy i bought it from (Roy) owns a small used car lot. He came and picked me up from the airport, about an hour later, we made a deal. Off i began on my 9.5hr drive back on July 4th. 2010. It was pretty sweet driving back and seeing all the fireworks but i did miss getting to spend it with the family.

First day home:
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My dad owns an auto-upholstery shop in BR. They have a pretty large warehouse that i have access to whenever i want with a large assortment of tools, a two tower 7Klbs lift, and a place to store everything. Only downside, all of my dads cars/projects are taking up too much space, haha. In the back warehouse are: dads boat, 66 showroom floor condition Mustang, a 66 Mustang project he is building into a GT500 replica, a 70 something Mailbu he is restoring with a 454, and my brothers mint condition 85' Monte Carlo SS. My dad and brother like cars, i like 4x4s, go figure.

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Build up begins.
Step one: clean interior!
I started out by using a fantastic product called Malco to clean all of the leather and interior plastic. This stuff is so good that you need to only use it on a wet sponge when cleaning the leather or it will actually begin to remove some of the dye in the leather :)
The rear carpet has some stains and a very weird substance on the right rear, very gross is a good description. I was going to try and shampoo the carpet while still in the truck, i decided i would rather pull it out entirely as our carpet shampoo-er was broken, ha. This turned out to be a MUCH better idea. I pulled all of the rear carpet, removed the padding on the back side, sprayed it down with Purple Clean? Then pressure washed the snot out of it! This got all of the stains out of the carpet and returned it to a "like new" condition. I then added some new felt padding to the back side as insulation and sound deadening. I will probably go with dynamat on the rear eventually as i can get a deal through one of my dad's employees.

I will also be re-doing the entire headliner either tomorrow or Wednesday.

Carpet out, seats still in and fender carpet still in.

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Seats out and fender carpet out.

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Re-padding the back of the cargo area carpeting, i did this also for the fender well carpet after i presure washed it too.

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Today, Monday 7/12/2010 i finally washed it up and decided to try and see if my FJC steelies with 285 BFG AT's would fit, THEY DO. No rubbing whatesoever. I wasn't too keen on black wheels on a navy vehicle, but i think they look great after mounting them!
I just mounted my spare onto the front axle for a quick test drive down the street.
Also installed my Yellow top optima to replace the crappy battery that was in there and not holding a charge. The yellow top won't be staying in that location for very long though :)

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Don't laugh at the mis-matched colored lugs haha.

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Step 2: order parts!

Ordered Stainless brake line set (frame to axle and axle to caliper, 7 in total) and windshield washer relocator bracket from Slee offroad. The washer relocating bracket is so that i can buy a FJ80 (91-92 year model) battery tray which is located on the passenger side of the vehicle. I will then use my DirtyParts dual battery kit to wire up dual batteries. DieHard Platinum as primary and Yellow Top Optima as auxiliary/backup.

Tomorrow i will be ordering from CruiserDan at American Toyota:
Toyota CDL (center differential locking) switch: this enables locking the center diff in 4Hi, and i will be performing the pin 7 mod which allows unlocking the center diff in 4LO. This makes turning sharp turns in 4LO MUCH easier
Toyota Hand throttle: this enables you to set any rpm rev, lock that RPM in place with this cable, and then remove your foot. Ideal for winching, jumping another vehicle, etc. also, poor man's cruise control.
FJ80 battery tray
radiator to engine heater hoses and a couple hoses on top of the valve cover as well as the PCV grommet

The previous owner "said" he took care of the pesky heater hose, PHH, but i saw a neat solution that looks to be better. Instead of just replacing the very hard to reach hose, i will replace the whole metal tubing from the heater valve all the way to the engine block down below.

I am also looking to replace the entire exhaust system as it is full of leaks everywhere and has been hacked up quite a few times. I have been emailing with a guy from mud that is parting out his wrecked 95 to get his entire exhaust from the manifold to the tailpipe.

Step 3: order the fun mods!!!!

My very immediate list of things i will be adding to the FZJ-80:
The FJC steelies and 285 BFG ATs from the FJC
ARB bumper
Old Man Emu 850/863 (heavy/heavy) and new Nitrocharger Sport shocks
Safari Snorkel (of course)

After these, and soon to be ordered near after will be:
Sliders (undecided on brand yet)
LightForce Blitz 240's
Rear bumper with swing out: I like the Kaymar because of towing ability, but it's departure angle and weight are killer. I am about 90% sure i will be going with the Slee rear bumper with swing out and then will just leave my OEM hitch on underneath that. Whenever i go wheeling, i will just remove the 6 or so bolts that hold on the trailer hitch, and then be on my way.

The Slee rear bumper with Hi-lift mount.
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Spend about 4 hours today with my new Ryobi grinder/cutoff wheel on the front axle. Removed any rust/flaky paint in the center section of the axle (between the radius arms). I was debating using the por-15 on this section but decided not to. I will clean/degrease it, use some good primer, and then some semi gloss black paint.

Also, i got my hand throttle installed today. Took a little contortioning to get it installed. Once i started my idle was around 1500rpms!!!! Definitely adjusted the cable wrong, ha. After some tweaking, when i would engage the hand throttle, it would shoot up to 2500rpms, needed more adjusting. Now my idle RPMS about back around 600-700, and when i just pull the hand throttle, it increases to ~1500rpms. It is very neat in that you ran raise the RPMs to whatever you want, pull the hand throttle and it will hold that RPM.

Numerous benefits to this simple install, and it is OEM.

Got my slee stainless steel brake lines in as well, with no directions and no install help on their site :(

After many hours of reading many threads over on MUD, i think i have a good idea as to how to approach this and what hoses go where.

Also ordered 5 speed bleeders. One for each corner and one for the LSPV. Still waiting on a guy to remove and send me his LSPV that is in a lot better condition than my rusted through unit.
Speed Bleeder Bleeding Brakes Bleeding Motorcycle Brakes Automotive Bleeder Screw Brake Bleeder


Going to pick up a Diehard Platinum for the primary battery in a few minutes, and using the Optima as an auxiliary. I also have a complete Blue Sea secondary fuse box, and all of the wiring for it that i had bought for the FJC but never got around to installing. I will be using this on the LC to hook up items to the Optima.



After some time:
Box from CruiserDan arrived.
All new:
OEM belts
OEM radiator to engine hoses
FJ80 (91-92) battery tray (passenger side mounted for an OEM looking dual battery setup)
Couple other small doodads.

Also picked up my Diehard Platinum 34m battery from sears. Would have got the 31m for its greater capacity, but it require some modifications to fit, and is about $50 bucks more. If i wasn't running a dual battery kit, i would have bought the 31m. I think i'll be okay with the 34m and the Optima Yellow Top :)
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Changed the PVC grommet, valve, and hose (hose was rock hard) and the evacuator or something other hose on top of the valve cover

The horror stories i had heard about the PVC grommet were true. This thing was a PITA to remove. I took my time, tried to get a little bit of oil between the sides of the grommet and the valve cover. I had a shop vac ready to suck up any small pieces that broke and fell into the valve cover. I cut the grommet in two main pieces, it came out in about 7, hahaha.

I also tried to install my new Toyota belts today. Only to find out, that my tensioner pulley needs to be replaced. The little rod on the bottom that actually puts tension on it, is broke. I am going to go ahead and replace it and the idler pulley as well.

The O2 sensors need replacing bad, going to order those with the pulleys tomorrow...

Threads suck without pictures, i know this. I took a few today, and will take some more tomorrow whenever JoeUser comes by to swap roof racks!
 
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Installed my washer bottle relocation kit from Slee the other day. I was waiting to get my OEM intake in the mail before trying to get the battery tray and battery installed. Also, got the vehicle registered and title in my name the other day :clap:


My used OEM exhaust (from headers back to tailpipe) comes in tomorrow, along with used OEM intake.
Coming in very soon, new tensioner pulley and bracket, new rear O2 sensor, couple other small things i ordered from CDan.

Going to soak every single bolt down tomorrow on the exhaust system with PB blaster (need some more cans of this stuff) and break out the sawzall and cutoff wheel and go to town on removing the factory exhaust.

Spoke to Adam at 4xInnovations and my sliders should be finished up tomorrow and shipped out on Monday or Tuesday :clap:

The post to picture count in this thread suxxxxxxxxx. I will fix that after this weekend when i get some pics of the exhaust tear down. If i have enough time to get away from work i might try to attack the brake system, stainless steel brake lines, and SpeedBleeder bleeder valves that just came in the mail.
 
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PICTURES, with commentary.

Dennis (JoeUser) drove down from Dallas the other day to pick up the BajaRack and trade me his rack for a great deal. Also, he got a phone call letting him know he was offered a great new job. Congrats on the job Dennis and i am very sorry about the other phone call you got while here.

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The 80 up on the lift with it's new tires/wheels. It now currently has some 1.5" spidertrax wheel spacers as the backspacing of the steelies is too big for my liking. The spacers put the wheels almost right in line with the edge of the fender flares, sit about 0.5" inward. I don't plan on removing the flares (i think it looks weird without them) so this was necessary IMO. Also, with the spacers i can run my Toyota center caps on the steelies and 16" offroad package wheels :clap:

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Today, i got in my gently used replacement exhaust, intake, and LSPV for the rear axle.

Since my dad decided to put his mustang frame up on the lift i had to resort to stupid jack stands, grrrrr. Yes, i am already spoiled by that lift, haha.

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Here are my "wheeling tires". I brought these up to my dads shop to get them out of my tiny garage to give me some more room.

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Last but not least, took a recent hiking trip with Roux (golden retriever) and friends. Saw a few snakes. Let the girls do the "map" thing. They got us lost. We had to turn back, haha.

Here we are at one of the waterfalls relaxing.

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The bandage on her foot is from a week prior. While playing ball with her and my dads golden, she slipped and broke her dew claw pretty badly. Had to take her to the vet and sedated her as they snipped that sucker off at the bone. She is doing well now and it has healed.

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.....

Doh, forgot to add an update.

Got a few hours of work done today.
Tried getting the belts installed yesterday but the Alternator would not budge in its bracket to slip the belt over it's pulley. Today, armed with a new bottle of PB Blaster and a hammer, i figured out a way to tap on it from the side without removing the battery tray. It finally moved enough to get the belts around it. Installed the new OEM tensioner pulley and bolt as well. The pulleys and intake are so much quieter now.

Got a few parts shipping out on Monday, don't even remember what they are at this point i have made so many orders, haha. Everytime i get a Toyota box in the mail, im like "Oooo what did i get?" haha.

Got my used OEM intake canister and tube mounted.

Got my LND CRSR license plate bolted up. Got it here:
Brazil Cruiser Plates
 
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The pics are fuzzy i know, my camera got stolen the other day. Not too worry, i am picking up a Nikon D5000 from a guy in town with a photo studio. He just bought the D5000 but needs to get a D90 instead. Going pick it up Saturday!

Dual battery tray and battery are installed. Now i just need to install the wiring, and eventually my bluesea fuse block (had bought this for the FJC but just didn't get around to installing it)

Got my 4xInnovations sliders in today, thanks Adam! They look fantastic and are super heavy. I got the heavier duty, thicker walled version. After the pics, i sanded them down ready for paint tomorrow. I did notice on one small section of tube, it appears that the welder missed a section about 2cm long. I got the guy at my dads shop to throw a bead on there for me, i paid him with a cold Coka-Cola ;)

Here is Roux with one of the toyota boxes sniffin for drugs. She does this to every box i get in the mail. ha.
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The sliders came in on a big pallet, very well packed. After seeing first hand on the FJC how these kick-out style sliders literally push your vehicle away from trees offroad, there was no doubt this was the style i wanted. The Land Cruiser doesn't have the luxury of weld nuts already in place for sliders. The frame also gets narrower towards the front wheels than at the rear wheels. So they slider arms have to be different lengths.

Most manufacturers of slider only use a flat plate and then a u-bolt to attach their sliders, or, have weld on sliders. I think from an engineering standpoint that the u-bolt is not a great design for this purpose and the pinch it will put on the frame. The 4xInnovation sliders cup the frame and are then sandwiched together at the top with two bolts. This seems like a much stronger design IMO and one of the major reasons i went with these.
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This is the passenger slider. The large metal plate is a skid plate for the catalytic converters (which are in a very bad, easily damaged spot from Toyota). Also, you can see one of my dads mustangs in the background. I believe that one is his 66', very sick!
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Pic of the driver side slider with the 80 in the back ground. How do y'all like my new license plate :)
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Gonna throw 2 coats of rustoleum primer on, then 4-5 light coats of rustoleum semi-flat black.

My remaining exhaust parts should arrive tomorrow, so i should have her up and running around Thursday!
 
Got some pics with the new camera.

New sliders and 34" super swampers.

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And one last pic of mans best friend, Roux.

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Also, finally got the wiring for the Cobra CB (75wxst or something like that) all pulled out of the FJC. Now to figure out where to install it on the 80 and get a new antenna and stud.
 
I found out my Dad is a dealer for Lloyd mats and wheelskin wheel covers!!! So i got him to order me a steering wheel cover (mines shot) and some Lloyd Rubertite Hex floor mats (2 pc front, 1 pc second row, and cargo area) These things are nice! Retail about 170 or so, gotta love dealer costs! I am going to ask them about becoming a dealer for ARB, get them to see how much it would cost to become a dealer and if they need to sell a certain amount each month. I think i alone could be enough for them, haha.

I got them in tan and the color is pretty close to the factory carpet, they should arrive in about a week.
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Got some things done today, but not too much. Still need to install my new fuel filter and tons of other things, but the FF shouldn't be too much work.

First up, installing my CO2 tank. Most folks on MUD do this by using the rear seat bracket and welding a mount to it and putting the CO2 tank there. I'd like to keep the brackets available for using the third seats if i ever end up needing them. I also want to be able to attach a fire extinguisher to it in some way (large quick fists work great for extinguishers)

I wanted to create something that was easily removable, yet still quite sturdy.
So here is my idea:
-Build a plate out of steel in the shape of the tank bracket base.
-Drill 4 holes in the plate that match the tank bracket
-Weld four nuts on the bottom of the base, the tank bracket would use these to mount to the bracket.
-The base would then be bolted through the rear tub of the 80 (with some long bolts, 1.5" flat washers, silicone around holes.
-The base would then sit under the carpet in the rear and have 4 holes cut into the carpet for the tank to bolt to the base.
This would allow me to remove the CO2 bracket in about 2 minutes rather than having to figure out a way to hold onto the bolts from underneath the rig.

Once finished, it will look like this, but be secured very well. I am HOPING i can make a large quickfist fit on the side of the bracket in order to attach my fire extinguisher like in the pics.

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and here is how the extinguisher would be mounted.

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I have seen one other person mount theirs right here, so i am pretty sure there is room underneath to get to the bolts and attach nuts, but have not confirmed this :worried:



Next item i got done today: Herculined front of hood.
Reasons for doing this mod:
1. Get rid of bubbling rust spot.
2. Get rid of any rock chips in the paint to prevent (more) rust.
3. Gives a non-slip spot to grab and close the hood. (also keeps greasy/dirty hands from showing up on the paint)
4. I think it looks cool ;) i am a sucker for aesthetics.

Let me know what you guys think about this one. Most will either like it or hate it, ha. It actually isn't very noticable since the paint is navy, it looks like a bug deflector at a glance.

There was a bubbling rust spot on the driver side of hood and some rock chips right on the front of the hood (its very flat and easy to get a rock chip).
So, i started poking at the rust spot and it ended up being a helluva lot worse than i though. The rust actually went all the way through and i had some holes :( I removed as much of the rust as i could get to, flapper wheeled it, cleaned it up with some degreaser, put some body filler in there :) I know this solution isn't great, but it will work for now. Ultimately, i'd like to replace the hood because of this spot, but i think it will hold up for a while.

Next, i masked off the entire area with painters tape and some paper masking off stuff. I then sanded the rest of the front of the hood with 100 grit. After sanding, cleaned with Purple Clean (love this stuff). I am very happy with the end result. I will be using the rest of the Herculiner to coat the top of my 4xInnovations rock rails to give some traction on the top (rather than skateboard grip tape)

Onto the pictures:

Body filler in the cut out rust section after sanding

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First coat of Herculiner

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Applied second coat and removed tape right away per instructions

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I think it came out great and much better to look at than the horrible bubbly rust spot, dumb previous owner.

As i left the shop, the lighting was great so i decided to take some pics of how she is sitting today.

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Who needs a jeep for a removable top when you have six windows that fully open and a sunroof :)

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OME 850 front (heavy)/ 863 rear (heavy) and 60018/60020 Nitrocharger Sport shocks installed, thanks Jacque and Barb over at TRDparts4u !

Will get pics up shortly. This install was a PITA. Easily worse than installing the TRD supercharger. Couple bolts breaking, re-threading, buying new hardware, grinding/cleaning/re-painting; probably easily took me 15-18 hours.

Why take so long you might ask? Lets review the fun weekend, haha. (i soaked every single bolt that needed to be removed for a week in PB blaster)

Rear suspension first:
Sway bar bolts: broke off. Stud left over stuck in swaybar and wouldn't come out, hammer and punch, no dice. After an hour or so of grinding and hammering, dad comes over with air chisel, this makes very short work of the left over bolt. (this tool ROCKS, it's like a mini freaking jack hammer. It'll punch a hole through a 2x4 in 2 seconds barely pressing on it, i tried, haha)

Sway bar removed, now, all i need to do is remove the bottom bolt of the shock mount, remove the two top bolts that hold the shock plate (shock attaches to a plate that attaches to the frame). These weld nuts that the shock plate attach to would be near impossible to replace, and it would be a HUGE PITA to remove and place a nut up there if the bolts broke off. They were not budging, at all. PB blaster, propane bottle torch, cool, repeat. All in all, to remove these 4 shock plate bolts on both sides, took the better part of 3-4 hours. Every single turn (could only turn 1/8-1/4 of a rotation at a time) took a breaker bar, and a 2foot cheater pipe, the entire way backing the bolt out, and these bolts are extremely long.

Once these were out, top shock bolt was not gonna move, cut off wheeled the top of the shock stud. Then, took the grinder wheel to the shock plates, sanded, cleaned, primed and painted.

Pulled out old springs, wire wheeled the mounting areas, clean/degreased, primed and painted, installed new 863 springs.

Re-tap mounting holes. The lower shock mount uses a 12mmx1.25mm tap. My tap/die set goes up to 10mmx1.5mm :( Went to Sears, they don't sell individual taps. Went to three auto parts stores and home depots/lowes, no taps or no 12mmx1.25mm taps. :mecry: Rented a tap/die set and a tie rod removed fork from auto parts store.

Started to re-tap the lower shock bolt hole (bought new bolts for this as well) The rented tap kit was horrible. The taps were weird looking and looked more like a bolt then a tap. Praying my dad would have a tap/die kit with a tap big enough, i started searching the shop for a metric tap/die kit. Praise Jesus, i found it and it had a 12mmx1.25mm tap in there :) All threads re-tapped, all new attaching hardware, anti-seize on everything, bolted everything back in place.

Sway bars were a b!tch to bolt back on.

Front suspension:

Unbolted the stock steering dampener, the bolts came off easy, the dampener did not. Have lots of hammer pounding, went talked to a guy at parts store, he said use a pickle fork to get them out. Having never used one of these before i didn't know much about them or how to use. These made the job go somewhat smoother. One of the bolts that attach the steering dampener to the frame is broken off flush with the frame. Tried welding on a nut, hammering the edges with a punch, heat, PB blaster, nothing worked. Going to take it to a local 4x4 shop and have them remove and install a new bolt when i take it there to have them install the caster correction bushings as well. More on that later.

Unbolted the sway bar from frame, these bolts came out easy thank goodness.

Next, simply unbolt the shocks from the frame and axle, simple right? Had a pipe wrench on the shock body and impact on the bolt, nothing. Breaker bar and cheater pipe on bolt, nothing. Cut off wheel. Just to cut through the bolt took about 15-20 minutes, x2 for each side.

Top of shock bolt. Pipe wrench on shock, box wrench on top bolt. Can't reach far enough to hold onto pipe wrench and turn bolt. After thinking for a while, drilled hole through shock (this is the top part of the shock, which is basically just a hollow protector for the shocks shaft) Slid a heavy duty screw driver into shock wedged against shock shaft, now i could get some major torque on that top bolt. They came off rather quickly with this method,.

Front springs: had to place the bottle jack between axle and frame to push down on axle enough to get the springs out, still had to use a large pry bar to get them out. Wire wheeled the mounts, clean/degreased, primed/ painted. Installed new 850 springs, installed nitrocharger sport shocks, bolted up sway bar and reattached brake line mounts, liberal application of anti-seize everywhere.

Long shower, long nap, haha.

Things still left to do: fix the one broke bolt on the frame for the steering dampener and install caster correction bushings. The bushings need a large press to push out the old bushings and push in the new ones. I am going to take the 80 to a 4x4 shop where i trust the guys that work there, print out the install instructions from SleeOffroads website, let them go to town. The owner, who does nearly all the fab work for the shop (buggy builds, roll cages, the go to guy for custom fab work around these parts), has a Mechanical Engineering degree and is super nice, my kind of guy. I am hoping he has some creative way of getting the front bolt out as well.

This job sucked big time. I am going to take some measurement, it looks like it's got a rake on it, I can't really tell till i measure. Once i add the ARB in a couple weeks (waiting for it to arrive at TRDparts4u in Dallas), i will add the 30mm Man-a-Fre spacer back on the front coils to level it out some more. The rear tailgate is high and now a large jump for my golden retriever. Right now it shouldn't be an issue, but as she gets older i will look into getting a foldable ramp for her so it's easier on her joints.

I didn't have any energy to take pictures, but i will get some soon!
 
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Had some fun at the range recently. First video i have ever made so please excuse the amateur-ness of it. Shooting buddy and i rented these and had a blast. My birthday was recently so he paid for all of the rental and ammo as a present, along with a bore snake for my .45ACP SIG.

If you're a man, and you shoot a fully automatic firearm, and do not end up with a grin on your face, somethings wrong with you :)
Clicky for video


My SIG P220R with SS slide and crimson trace laser grips (not pictured, my ugly Glock that i shoot even better :) ) This was right after i fired a round, my buddy was trying to get a mid-ejection shot, fail. Don't worry, at 20-25 feet i can easily keep all 10 inside the black. ;)

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OME 850/863 install with new nitrocharger sport shocks

My original plan was to take pictures the entire way through the install. If you read my long previous post, you will see how frustrating the install was and i stopped taking pictures, hahaha.

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Here are some before and after shots in roughly the same spot. I have 1inch man-a-fre poly spring spacers for the front i will be installing when i go to pick up my ARB bumper in a week or so to get rid of the stink bug rake that i now have.

Before:
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After:
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Before:
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After:
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Before:
(only PS shot i have pre-lift)
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After:
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More pics and some poser flex pics :)

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That's all for now.

Let me know what you fellow Mudders think ;)
 
hey, wheres the "new to you" rear crossmember? looks pretty damn good dude.
 
hey, wheres the "new to you" rear crossmember? looks pretty damn good dude.

Thanks man!

Its sitting next to the boat ;)

I am still debating the Slee and the 4x4 labs :(

The Slee would be cheaper, but i'd really like to have a dual swing out to carry gas cans and water for the dog. So the 4x4Labs with tire carrier and 3 gas can carrier is winning the bumper choice right now.

Right now i am waiting on my ARB bumper to arrive at TRDparts4u in Dallas, then driving to pick it up. Also just sold my IPF lights so i will be ordering the LightForce 240 Blitz models. If they have a Safari Snorkel in stock, i'll probably grab one of those while there, haha.
 
Awesome write up man, looking really good! Can not wait for more!
 
Those 34's look absolutely awesome on your truck...

But be careful on them when they're hot... Those bias ply's like to get slippery...

Look in my sig and send BFG a love letter:D Tell'em you want some 35/10.50's if they'll make them.
 
Sweet thread man! I remember years ago when every other day there would be 80 build up threads posted here in the 80's section. Reminds me of all the countless hours I spent on the ol'80. Thanks for sharing.
 

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