Landtank vs. Delta rear lower control arms.

[JoeCova]

I went on line and found a site that calculated deflection on tubing.

I had already made lower links in.25 DOM and bent those

Running the numbers on that site made it clear that solid rod was the way to go

Add to that solid rod is cheaper. The over sized ends I put on help with protecting the frame and axle mounts as well as strengthening the weld joints at the ends.

I like the round stock over square. The LCAs are basically a slider and my thought is that the contact patch resting on a rock would likely be smaller than it it was flat

So I’m making some assumptions that you are using 1018 1” solid rod and DVS 2.5x1.5 .188 square tube in 1018 steel.


I’ll be frank, a 2” solid 1018 steel link on a 6000 lb cruiser doesn’t remotely meet the minimum factors of safety calculations if we include dynamic amplifications of loads from off-roading. (Offroad = Rubicon like trails)

Your .25 DOM bent and failed because it would need to be 3.5” diameter to meet minimum factors of safety. Jeeps (2-doors) can get away with .25 DOM because their links are shorter and they weigh half as much.

No one is saying that your links aren’t “strong” or “strong enough” in some applications just that others are.

The DVS links are stronger for bending and buckling and yield.

To your point about cost. You can spend $500 on a set of links from either company that both fall short. Or you can spend $400 on 7075-T6 that exceeds all of them.

 

[landtank]

Well, they work just fine for more that a 100 users without issue for over 10 years. If your design is more expansive I’m likely still going to see sales.

 

[LXDOC]

Or you could go to Rock Auto and order the Mevotech Supreme rear lower arms which include bushings, are larger than stock, and are only 104.00 each.

 

[LXDOC]

And yes they are significantly heavier than stock

 

[Rusty Cruiser]

Or you could go to Rock Auto and order the Mevotech Supreme rear lower arms which include bushings, are larger than stock, and are only 104.00 each.

Thanks, I’ll check them out! I had a set of mevotech branded SPC upper control arms on my first gen tundra. I wonder if these are SPC as well?

 

[LXDOC]

When I purchased mine, they were SPC.

 

[Rusty Cruiser]

When I purchased mine, they were SPC.

For $236 shipped for a pair it is very tempting to see what they look like….

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

I went on line and found a site that calculated deflection on tubing.

I had already made lower links in.25 DOM and bent those

Running the numbers on that site made it clear that solid rod was the way to go

Add to that solid rod is cheaper. The over sized ends I put on help with protecting the frame and axle mounts as well as strengthening the weld joints at the ends.

I like the round stock over square. The LCAs are basically a slider and my thought is that the contact patch resting on a rock would likely be smaller than it it was flat

Both are quality parts but Im with @landtank 's logic here going with round. Everything has a breaking point with that said Im using sleeved round 3/8" wall for many years without issue.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

For $236 shipped for a pair it is very tempting to see what they look like….

Without factory bushings they will be short lived making them worthless IMO

 

[SteelHunterFJ80]

I can’t do adjustable stuff…my OCD can’t handle it! Haha

A man who knows his own limits. I like it