LANDTANK performance MAF housing

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Installed this bad boy yesterday after doing my brakes. Found a used sensor on EvilBay for $29. Everything went together in about 20 minutes. In my connector I had a formed white, plastic "lock" that had to be completely removed in order to remove the pins. No biggie. So after installing I go for a drive. I don't really notice much of a change at all. Just regular cruising about town. I get gas and restart. I decide to take a steep hill up by my house.

The best way to describe it is imagine you are driving and you press the PWR button. It "feels" more peppy and changes the transmission shift points. Now imagine feeling that WITHOUT hitting the PWR button. It was VERY noticeable. Now when I hit the PWR button it actually feels like I have added torque. Now it could be the shift points in the transmission but it really feels like it has more power.

My wife noticed the change right away when she drove it!









Then my DS rubber brake line went out after doing a fresh brake job. Related?........







Maybe the brakes can't handle all the new power!!! :grinpimp:
 
unwiredadventures said:
I also bought a sensor on eBay.

I installed the sensor into the MAF housing.

I installed the whole unit according to the instructions and got a CEL code 110.

Any ideas?
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that points to the IAT sensor within the MAF sensor itself. Check the wiring by comparing the color of the wires to that of the directions. Also make sure all wires are installed completely. If that all checks out you have a bad sensor.
 
Rick,

Thanks for the quick shipping and the high-quality product with solid installation instructions. It was a pleasure doing business with you, and the gains in shift quality and engine smoothness at higher rpms are readily apparent during the first test drive. Now that I've endorsed your product, do I get a volume discount if I buy another for my other 80? :hhmm: :D
 
In order to keep the cost down I've ordered another 30 housings and they were being made as fill in work at the shop. We have been talking about the progress of these pieces once a week and have discussed pulling 10 ahead of the rest to fill back orders.

I'll post an eta at the end of this week. If anyone has a dead line like Christmas please let me know as I would hate to miss that delivery.
 
The next batch of housings should arrive by 12/12/2008. I'll get them out in the mail that saturday if they do arrive.

If something changes I'll update the thread.

Thanks for you patience with the delivery time.
 
Just sent some bucks your way after reading all the threads on your MAF. Great work and thank you so much.

I also ordered a used OEM sensor from ebay for $40.00! Hopefully it works.
 
I bought it from a guy named "rut216," hopefully it works, I'd hate to have an engine code and not know whether I messed something up or just got a bad sensor. I believe I have some CRC carb/throttle body cleaner. Do you know if that will work for cleaning the sensor or is it too harsh?

Thanks.
 
You can clean the sensor with brake cleaner if it is not too bad (and they usually are not that bad.)
-B-
 
I have been running around with this new MAF set up for about 2 weeks now and it feels great. I wish I had a way to measure the difference. But it is obvious from these 2 comparisons that the intake was opened up significantly:

083.jpg

You can see the narrowing diameter closer to the counter top.

077.jpg

Here is the outside shot of the narrowing diameter that is needed for this older style MAF sensor to get an accurate reading. The fronts are facing each other.

Thank you Rick for using your brain to figure this out and then sourcing it into production. If anyone is considering this modification you can add me to the long list of very happy customers who say do it.
 
Glad you like the improvement and thanks for the pictures.

I've always used CRC MAF cleaner and a small model paint brush to lightly sweep away any grime on the actual sensor. That's one of the benefits of this new sensor, it's out where it can easily be serviced instead of inside that "bullet" looking housing of the original.
 
Just a heads up for those of you in California (and maybe other states) when it comes to smog inspections. When you remove the vacuum hose to the fuel pressure regulator and plug off the connections, your vehicle is no longer compliant because it's been modified from the way it came from the factory - regardless of whether or not the mod has affected emissions. I failed visual inspection today because of this. However the guy I went to was quite nice when I explained what it was all about. He let me go next door to an auto parts store and grab 6" of 4mm tubing. I re-installed the vacuum control to the FPR, passed inspection, drove down the street for lunch, and then removed the hose and put back the plugs on the end of the vacuum lines. I'm just going to keep the hose in the center console from now on and reinstall it prior to an inspection.

I'm told it's possible to go to a special California Bureau of Automotive Repair "Referee Station" and have them exempt the FPR modification and then install a tamper-proof label saying that this mod is OK, if I can convince the the inspector that the modification will not adversely affect emissions. I may look into this in the future, but for now I'm busy with other projects.
 
TrickyT said:
I may look into this in the future, but for now I'm busy with other projects.
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I would grab a 6mm hose (or whatever fits) and put it over the plugs which would make it look like the FPR was connected to vacuum.

-B-
 
Are these still available for purchase? If some are available, I want to buy one.
 
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Beowulf said:
I would grab a 6mm hose (or whatever fits) and put it over the plugs which would make it look like the FPR was connected to vacuum.

-B-
Click to expand...

I like it! Consider this done.

Thanks, B.
 
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