Lando - 94 Build

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Have you had the catch cans on it the whole time?

Vent the catch cabs to atmosphere, not back into the intake. This takes vacuum pulling oil through the PCV of the table. Then you're back to blow by.

I partly agree with @COYS , if everything is good, you should be able to fire it up and run it without really having to do anything special. Especially with factory fresh Toyota button end.

Having said that, running it in should see it used through every part of the rev range. Hitting 2k rpm is barely getting it above idle. You're barely getting it to operating temp. Parts aren't going to get hot and expand fully, and won't bed in fully.

In racing circles in Australia people say "if you want an engine to run hard, run it in hard".

On an old Aussie landcruiser forum, it was common for guys to have oil consumption issues and blow by issues in freshly rebuilt Toyota diesels. Its almost always guys who treat the new engine like it was made of delicate crystal, and bauxite idle it around for the first 10k km.
Loading them up and getting them good and hot is often the solution.
So long as you're not a peanut about it, you're not doing anything the engine wasn't designed to do straight out the factory door.
 
Nope. I had the factory lines to the intake, and it started blue smoking real bad. Thats when I found all the oil in the intake. Once I put the catch cans in, I wasn't burning it anymore, just catching all the oil previously dumping in the intake. I've turned the overdrive button off on the transmission this morning. I hit 90mph this morning on the highway, but I don't want to get caught doing that often haha.
 
Was there an oil orrifice restrictor in the short block?
It controls the amount of oil flow to the head and cams

@OGBeno would this be in a new short block? Or need to be ordered and installed?
 
Was there an oil orrifice restrictor in the short block?
It controls the amount of oil flow to the head and cams

@OGBeno would this be in a new short block? Or need to be ordered and installed?
It didn’t come with the block, but I did order and install that myself. Torqued to spec per the manual. I thought about this being the culprit too, but wouldn’t this have showed in the oil pressure gauge on the dash?
 
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I’ve got a few more kinks to work out still, but the oil consumption was fixed today. I cleaned the valve cover about 3 times, but still didn’t fix the issue. I broke down and ordered one of the updated ones from amayama.

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I didn’t realize my pcv channel was so plugged until i breathed into the new one today. Thanks for the heads up @RiverCityDave! I‘m guessing all that crud inside the baffles in the old cover were baked into a giant rock when it was cooked during the powder coating process. After 100 miles today on the new VC, no oil consumption.
 
Nice work! Feels so good solving these issues. What are you going to do with the old VC? Are you planning on dissembling it to take a peak inside?
 
Nice work! Feels so good solving these issues. What are you going to do with the old VC? Are you planning on dissembling it to take a peak inside?
I’ve got the old block and head for sale in the classifieds section. I’ll put a disclaimer wih the VC that it needs to be hot tanked. I would think that would get it clean, i just don’t have a good option near me.
 
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I’ve got a few more kinks to work out still, but the oil consumption was fixed today. I cleaned the valve cover about 3 times, but still didn’t fix the issue. I broke down and ordered one of the updated ones from amayama.

View attachment 3525306

I didn’t realize my pcv channel was so plugged until i breathed into the new one today. Thanks for the heads up @RiverCityDave! I‘m guessing all that crud inside the baffles in the old cover were baked into a giant rock when it was cooked during the powder coating process. After 100 miles today on the new VC, no oil consumption.
AWESOME! I'm glad you got it sorted. That valve cover looks nice.
 
Started wrestling with the headliner today. The old sewn in headliner came out really easy. Not that much of a mess. Got the new one in…kind of. It fits, but it’s not a direct replacement like I’ve read in some other threads.There must be some small differences in the US market and the JDM’s in some areas. I’ll show you guys what I found out.

1: Rear dome light. I’ve drawn a circle where the old dome light went, there’s a cross brace that it screws into. I’m guessing that crossbrace sits about a foot back on the new ones, because there’s nothing to screw into except the naked roof. I’ll extend the harness and make a bracket with spring arms like low clearance lights in homes, to get the light further back. Not too big of a deal.

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2: B pillar seat belt adjuster. The holes are there…kind of. You can tell by looking at the picture below, but the top hole is meant for a smaller bolt, while the bottom hole isn’t threaded at all. The current plan is to try to drill out the top hole, and try to find some rivnuts that will make this functional. Still possible, more of a pain.

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3: D Pillar Trim. This was the only 2 trim pieces I didn’t get, as these are plastic on the earlier models…I should’ve gotten them.

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4: Sound Deadening. I was naive when it came to how much sound deadening I planned on using. The only space you can really put it is from the back of the sunroof cassette to the tailgate (basically behind the back seats). If you ever consider doing this, get the thick stuff, I’ve still got an inch of clearance between the butyl/foam and the headliner itself.

5: Cargo light: While I had the headliner out, I’ve read that the wiring for a cargo light is tucked into the d pillar on the driver side. Sure enough, it was taped up with the speaker wire. I picked up a factory dome light, and I’ll probably make a second bracket to float it like the other dome light.

TLDR: Can you put a cardboard headliner in the earlier models? Yes. Is it simple? Not really, at least on the US models. Unless yours is torn or resting on your head, it’s not worth the hassle.
 

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