Landcruiser 100 lacking power and using lots of fuel (1 Viewer)

[Rock40]

I'll chime in. For the speeds you're driving (pretty damn fast in my opinion) I think 16.5mpg is a fairly decent number for economy. High speed driving = high rpms and the FTE will need fuel to make them. I have an FT and I rarely ever hit 65mph (don't want to) and mostly cruise at 55-60mph. I get between 18-22mpg depending on towing, mixed driving or all highway. I'd leave the turbo alone unless you really think there is some issue with it.

 

[YvesNL]

@Rock40 thanks for your comment.

I agree that 16.5 is fairly decent, it is a lot better then the 12.9 to 14 that I had before.
16.5mpg is what I reach when driving continuous highway & no load or trailer.

The reason that I wanted to check the turbo is because of the sound it makes. It sounds different to most turbo's, and also different to other LC100's that I drove / heard. For now it's fine, but I'd like to check the turbo (and the valve that regulates turbo pressure) when I have some spare time.

 

[YvesNL]

So I took off the intake turbo tube and checked for side to side play on the turbo. There was probably too much.
I then took off the exhaust manifold & turbo and separated the two.

I brought the turbo to a specialist nearby that does more of these turbo's.
It turns out we in Europe/Netherlands sometimes have different turbo's than the rest of the world (euro3 / has to do with the environment).

The turbo in my 100 was a Garrett and it's a variable turbo, and that was the problem (specialist told me that it happens a lot with these turbos). The variable bit was stuck half open. I got the turbo re manufactured, new internals and balanced (received a nice balancing report). The vacuum pod was also leaking a bit, so got that replaced too.

Yesterday I started mounting the turbo in the car, but I was home late so I stopped at midnight. I only have the intake tube, egr tube & intake box left. Will do those today after work and report back on here. I replaced exhaust manifold studs & all gaskets with new ones.

Pic's or it didn't happen:

 

[hj 60]

If I close the radiator curtain on my hj it gets about 15% hotter, changing from winter to summer at a day with more than 20 Celsius I realize that the curtain is still down because the temp is a bit off to the hot side.

So I think there is more to look for, maybe a new rad? When I was driving in the Sahara there was no difference as in driving in the rain, or snow, It is always a steady temp, also with the boat trailer trough the alps to Croatia, same temp, only after revving it a few hunderd meters uphill in second the temp meter rises (it is designed to have a pretty long waiting interval before showing actual temp, clever design)
Some people consider it an upgrade te tweak the temp meter to show variable temps immediately, I think that is just panicking.
toyota know what they do I think, I keep it original.

Beware that maybe the "dirt" is stop a leak powder and it might start leaking.

 

[YvesNL]

I flushed all the coolant after I bought the car. The coolant was not clean, replaced it all.
I would not be surprised to see that the radiator is dirty on the inside.

I will take it offroad soon and find out.

Yesterday I put everything back together, let it warm up and went for a drive.
The turbo seems to pick up earlier and does more in higher revs. I can now really hear the turbo through the snorkel, far louder than before.
I don't think power has increased that much but the lower pickup and smoother driving is really nice.

 

[YvesNL]

Three days ago i replaced my (probably blocked) DPF with this:

The drive was already a lot better after the remanufactured turbo, and this was still a big transformation.

Power is coming in sooner and there is just more of it.

I am really happy with the way it performs right now. I will report on the fuel economy later.

 

[Reg57]

Three days ago i replaced my (probably blocked) DPF with this:

View attachment 1809993
View attachment 1809996

The drive was already a lot better after the remanufactured turbo, and this was still a big transformation.

Power is coming in sooner and there is just more of it.

I am really happy with the way it performs right now. I will report on the fuel economy later.

Hi

Three days ago i replaced my (probably blocked) DPF with this:

View attachment 1809993
View attachment 1809996

The drive was already a lot better after the remanufactured turbo, and this was still a big transformation.

Power is coming in sooner and there is just more of it.

I am really happy with the way it performs right now. I will report on the fuel economy later.

Hi

 

[Reg57]

Hi

Hi

Thanks for your post. I have fte motor and had my 100 series landcruiser for 6 years. Its has travelled 300 000 ks in various conditions off road and towing caravan and urban driving. Over this time i have noticed that fuel consumption increased and power has decreased. The power problem was very evident when towing - not so much noticable without caravan.
I cleaned intake manifold of carbon, blocked EGR pipe and no improvement.
Next i replaced exhaust manifold gasket, studs and nuts. Then replaced injectors - only to find problem seemed to be getting worse. Although fuel economy improved slightly still no joy in power - especially in lower revs under load.
Turbo will deliver 13 pounds of pressure on acceleration, but in lower rev range cruising and towing will not deliver enough pressure ie may require 8 pound but only getting 6 in this rev range. Result is i am constantly putting foot down to deliver more power, engine kicks back to higher revs where turbo boost goes up and fuel economy goes down.
Cleaning out the manifold meant capacity for more air (no longer clogged with build up) but turbo is not creating enough pressure due to worn fins at the compressor end which was probably accelerated by dirty EGR valve.
Am now going to replace turbo - and if this does not fully restore my landcruiser to prior performance will look at catalytic converter. My thinking is that cat converter would impact on car performance under all driving conditions - not just towing.

 

[Reg57]

Thanks for your post. I have fte motor and had my 100 series landcruiser for 6 years. Its has travelled 300 000 ks in various conditions off road and towing caravan and urban driving. Over this time i have noticed that fuel consumption increased and power has decreased. The power problem was very evident when towing - not so much noticable without caravan. I cleaned intake manifold of carbon, blocked EGR pipe and no improvement. Next i replaced exhaust manifold gasket, studs and nuts. Then replaced injectors - only to find problem seemed to be getting worse. Although fuel economy improved slightly still no joy in power - especially in lower revs under load. Turbo will deliver 13 pounds of pressure on acceleration, but in lower rev range cruising and towing will not deliver enough pressure ie may require 8 pound but only getting 6 in this rev range. Result is i am constantly putting foot down to deliver more power, engine kicks back to higher revs where turbo boost goes up and fuel economy goes down. Cleaning out the manifold meant capacity for more air (no longer clogged with build up) but turbo is not creating enough pressure due to worn fins at the compressor end which was probably accelerated by dirty EGR valve. Am now going to replace turbo - and if this does not fully restore my landcruiser to prior performance will look at catalytic converter. My thinking is that cat converter would impact on car performance under all driving conditions - not just towing.

 

[roscoFJ73]

Anyone looked at the pump? Diesel injection pumps tend to lose power under load as they warm up. 300kklms is about the time they start to get tired, although some go for much longer

 

[wedgetail]

quite likely the turbo I reckon. The FTE pumps seem to go for ever - certainly way outlasting 1hz pumps (even though people swear they’re basically the same). Almost Every report I’ve read of running issues where the pump/injectors have been replaced it turns out there is no improvement. Unlike turbo replacements.

My pump/injectors are on 420k and power/economy are great. Have spoken to people with over 800k on originals and also still good. It might be the pump but do it last. If you suspect the cat undo it at the engine pipe and go for a drive and see how it goes. Obviously you’ve checked out any possible intake restrictions

 

[Reg57]

Thanks guys - i am waiting on the new turbo to arrive. Will update if this was a success. I am on the page to leave the pump as my last port of call if the turbo doesnt improve the power - i did have the car scanned for fault codes - none showed up - hence thinking a tired turbo.

 

[Reg57]

Anyone looked at the pump? Diesel injection pumps tend to lose power under load as they warm up. 300kklms is about the time they start to get tired, although some go for much longer

Long story cut short did the tirbo - which did improve economy some but still nonpower at low torque. Desperation resulted in looking at the pump - which was done - replaced with another genuine. Power at low revs has returned. Tthanks all.

 

[MHS]

Check the boost line pressure damper and hose for cracks, these quite regularly fail causing the boost signal at the map sensor to read low, thus not delivering correct fueling. It causes the exact symptoms you are describing.

View attachment 1738337

Hello, I got my 100 series back from the shop. On idle it is reving properly however once I accelerate it, it seems to not do so. Doesnt go above 3k rpm in D, D1, D2 sometimes, In L2 it does go to 5k but lacks power. I checked under the hood, the small pipe to the RED CIRCLED THING is present however the white thing it goes into is not there. Just empty clips. Can you guide me what this thing is, and what i should do. I just got into 4 wheeling so a huge noob here. Thanks for hearing me out.

 

[roscoFJ73]

The first thing to do would be to call the last person who worked on it and tell him.
The 2nd thing to do is tell us why it went to the shop in the first place.
There is lots of reasons why you are not getting full power and its most likely fuel related. Either the fuel is restricted by a dirty filter ect, or by the computer because its not getting the correct inputs.

Im not a big fan of mechanics who remove items from the engine bay without mentioning it.

 

[MHS]

The first thing to do would be to call the last person who worked on it and tell him.
The 2nd thing to do is tell us why it went to the shop in the first place.
There is lots of reasons why you are not getting full power and its most likely fuel related. Either the fuel is restricted by a dirty filter ect, or by the computer because its not getting the correct inputs.

Im not a big fan of mechanics who remove items from the engine bay without mentioning it.

Thank you for the quick reply.

So basically I bought the car a month ago. I had been driving it regularly and it was accelerating just fine, better than some of my pals 100 as well. I was delighted. However the 100 would always be dripping some engine oil in my driveway. When I got the chance I took it to a mechanic my dad had a good bond with. He identified that the tappet cover was broken, so he replaced it with new one to stop the leak. He also identified the rear diff seal leaking so changed that too. To change the tappet cover he took apart the turbo. So I'm thinking he broke some sensor or didn't reattach them properly while doing so? He also drained and refilled AWS transmission fluid.

In idle the engine revs well. In D, D1, D2 it maxes out at 3k while gets extremely sluggish at 2.5k. From the get go to 2.5k it is in normal engine conditions. In L2, it goes to 5k. I took the car to him earlier today at an initial glance he couldnt figure out whats wrong. when told that the boost line pressure damper is missing he said it was missing when the car into the shop and although he will put a new one it wont fix the issue mentioned.

Kindly do give me your thoughts. Cheers!

 

[roscoFJ73]

If you can reach 4200rpm in neutral, the pump is getting enough fuel. (you should check the figures in the manual in the fuel pump section)
Like I said, you should ask him about the sensor.
It looks like a mass air flow sensor to me but I could be wrong. The MAF tells the computer how much air is flowing in the air intake and adjusts the fuel accordingly.
Friend of your father or not, he shouldn't have removed it without discussing it IMO.

 

[Johann1HDFTE]

YvesNL did you took the Techstream pictures again after replacing and doing everyting.​

Please post it​

Johann South Africa​

 

[Johann1HDFTE]

Three days ago i replaced my (probably blocked) DPF with this:

View attachment 1809993
View attachment 1809996

The drive was already a lot better after the remanufactured turbo, and this was still a big transformation.

Power is coming in sooner and there is just more of it.

I am really happy with the way it performs right now. I will report on the fuel economy later.

Hi how did the exercise effect your fuel economy, any comparisons?

 

[YvesNL]

I did not notice a difference in fuel economy, but maybe that is mostly because it was way faster now, and I was using that power.

The economy can go op tp 8km/l / 18.8 mpg when I drive slowly and mostly highway. But most of my driving is smaller roads, and since the ironman suspension handles big speedbumps so good I don't really drive slow, bumps are fun now. Most of my driving is small sections of only 16km/10miles at a time, a few times a day.

I've driven the cruiser about 160000km or 100000 miles now and my real world fuel economy is mostly 6 to 7 km/l or 14 to 16.5 mpg.

When I drive a lot of dirt roads, sand, am loaded up, do a lot of off roading or am pulling trailers it may go even lower.