ARCHIVE Knuckle Studs- Toyota finally has their decision concerning thread locker...

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NLXTACY

Wits' End
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By adding it themselves directly to the 1.5 side of the threads. This seems to ONLY be used on the 70 Series with the V8 diesels. Earliest application seems to be 2007 with much wider use in 70 Series in 2009. These knuckle studs are otherwise identical to the 80 Series knuckle studs we are all familiar with.

I'm sure this will spawn new discussions but as far as I'm concerned I think this is the way to go moving forward so I am now only shipping these with knuckle kits. And for what its worth, I'd still NEVER use Red Loctite on the knuckles. Just to make sure I had enough I had 500 brought in.

KAN-for-MUD.png

B6E5A5BB-4687-4982-BA6B-AF6BEEBF7BD2.jpeg
 
Cool. I've been using blue loctite for a decade or more. In this supercritical app, Toyota is finally reckoning with the problem of loosening knuckle studs. Super props to @NLXTACY!
 
Do I need to purchase a knuckle kit in order get them to replace the original knuckle studs I have now?




devo
 
devo said:
Do I need to purchase a knuckle kit in order get them to replace the original knuckle studs I have now?




devo
Click to expand...

Since it has a factory part number 90126-12010, i don't see why you couldn't order them from you're local dealership. But i like to support Mud vendors, So I'd just buy them from Wits End
 
devo said:
Do I need to purchase a knuckle kit in order get them to replace the original knuckle studs I have now?




devo
Click to expand...
No, just remove your current ones and add loctite
 
So what's the Loctite equivalent to whatever the green stuff is that Toyota is putting on there?
 
Like all things in the Toyota engineering world, these studs were “soft launched” when the 1VD-FTV was introduced in 2007.

These studs were then used in manufacturing of complete axle housings (axle housings come to the final assembly line completely built, flange-to-flange) at the Motomachi plant.

They would have been numbered 90126-12010-00 for line-fit designation.

They are slightly longer as well which helps in future service operations.

90126-12005 on left. 90126-12010 on right:

image.jpg


They were then gradually phased-in across the entire 7x vehicle range from 2007 to current manufacture.

Toyota is slowly phasing-out the 90126-12005 studs in the US for service part support operations. So, if you went to buy 90126-12005 (the old number) today from your local Toyota parts department, there is a good chance you will get these studs instead as a part supersession.

The supersession hasn’t been completely codified, but it will be shortly so that the 90126-12005 will no longer be available in the US for service parts support.

I’m glad I found these. They are a good upgrade and adds the thread sealant which is a good engineering application upgrade.

These will be reverse applicable to all knuckle studs using M12 sizing across all Land Cruisers.
 
Last edited:
Onur said:
Like all things in the Toyota engineering world, these studs were “soft launched” when the 1VD-FTV was introduced in 2007.

These studs were then used in manufacturing of complete axle housings (axle housings come to the final assembly line completely built, flange-to-flange) at the Motomachi plant.

They would have been numbered 90126-12010-00 for line-fit designation.

They are slightly longer as well which helps in future service operations.

90126-12005 on left. 90126-12010 on right:

View attachment 2446654

They were then gradually phased-in across the entire 7x vehicle range from 2007 to current manufacture.

Toyota is slowly phasing-out the 90126-12005 studs in the US for service part support operations. So, if you went to buy 90126-12005 (the old number) today from your local Toyota parts department, there is a good chance you will get these studs instead as a part supersession.

The supersession hasn’t been completely codified, but it will be shortly so that the 90126-12005 will no longer be available in the US for service parts support.

I’m glad I found these. They are a good upgrade and adds the thread sealant which is a good engineering application upgrade.

These will be reverse applicable to all knuckle studs using M12 sizing across all Land Cruisers.
Click to expand...
Very interesting. Thankyou and appreciate your knowledge and willingness to share it.

I know quite a few guys that have trouble with hub studs backing out on the rear FF axle, wonder if Mr Toyota does a similar thing for them too.
 
Onur said:
Like all things in the Toyota engineering world, these studs were “soft launched” when the 1VD-FTV was introduced in 2007.

These studs were then used in manufacturing of complete axle housings (axle housings come to the final assembly line completely built, flange-to-flange) at the Motomachi plant.

They would have been numbered 90126-12010-00 for line-fit designation.

They are slightly longer as well which helps in future service operations.

90126-12005 on left. 90126-12010 on right:

View attachment 2446654

They were then gradually phased-in across the entire 7x vehicle range from 2007 to current manufacture.

Toyota is slowly phasing-out the 90126-12005 studs in the US for service part support operations. So, if you went to buy 90126-12005 (the old number) today from your local Toyota parts department, there is a good chance you will get these studs instead as a part supersession.

The supersession hasn’t been completely codified, but it will be shortly so that the 90126-12005 will no longer be available in the US for service parts support.

I’m glad I found these. They are a good upgrade and adds the thread sealant which is a good engineering application upgrade.

These will be reverse applicable to all knuckle studs using M12 sizing across all Land Cruisers.
Click to expand...

seems to support my conclution that the shoulder was to short and needed to be lengthened. It looks like I took it even further to maximize the clamping ability of the cone washer.
 
Indestructible 47 said:
Very interesting. Thankyou and appreciate your knowledge and willingness to share it.

I know quite a few guys that have trouble with hub studs backing out on the rear FF axle, wonder if Mr Toyota does a similar thing for them too.
Click to expand...

Toyota increased the stud size from M8 to M10.

I know lots of guys put extra dowel pins into the rear hubs. That’s what I did with my old 80.

Actually, I think it was the Oz folks who did this first.
 
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On a side note, twice on my trucks and several times on others I have come across cases where a stud had sheared off. In all these cases they sheared right where the shoulder begins at the threaded section that is inside the knuckle. Because of the taper on the shoulder that point is below the surface of the knuckle. Having thread locker on those threads really ramps up the suck when needing to remove that piece out of the knuckle. I gave up on one, mainly because I had a knuckle and had already spent too much time trying to remove that piece.
 
landtank said:
Having thread locker on those threads really ramps up the suck when needing to remove that piece out of the knuckle. I gave up on one, mainly because I had a knuckle and had already spent too much time trying to remove that piece.
Click to expand...
Heat wouldn't release it? Probably a dumb question, the extraction was probably complicated, and the spare knuckle an easy choice.
 
-Spike- said:
Heat wouldn't release it? Probably a dumb question, the extraction was probably complicated, and the spare knuckle an easy choice.
Click to expand...

I had one with three broken studs. Dealer was like $150 (or close to). It was a no brainer.
 
-Spike- said:
Heat wouldn't release it? Probably a dumb question, the extraction was probably complicated, and the spare knuckle an easy choice.
Click to expand...

I don't know what strength was used but with your basic oxy-acetylene torch it wasn't going to happen. I routinely disassemble gear boxes that use loctite to bond the individual parts together and you need to heat the parts to a point where you can see whispers of smoke coming from them. That's the point when crystallization happens and the bond breaks. Getting that knuckle to that point was going to take more time than I had gas.

On the knuckles were the studs broke that I could get out I ended up using a center punch and knocked the piece around until I could get a bite on the edges. That takes a couple of turns.
 
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