knuckle rebuild question
- Thread starter mp_cude
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Paper towles.
There are no hidden things inside other than the Hub Nut. I forget the size.
You will need a fishing scale to set the preload as well.
Your first one is kinda scary but after you do a few of them, It's a piece of cake.
There are no hidden things inside other than the Hub Nut. I forget the size.
You will need a fishing scale to set the preload as well.
Your first one is kinda scary but after you do a few of them, It's a piece of cake.
rfj62
SILVER Star
Socket size is 54mm, brass punch, BFH. Here is a good rebuild thread. http://www.birfield.com/~morgan/tech/axle/index.html
It is not a big deal, do one at a time and you should be ok. It is messy, and the cone washers can be a major pain.
Drain the diff fluid and clean as much of the crud as you can off of the outside of the knuckles before you start.
Buy an extra 12 pack of beer.
Drain the diff fluid and clean as much of the crud as you can off of the outside of the knuckles before you start.
Buy an extra 12 pack of beer.
Put something underneath your project that can catch major slime without letting it crawl around your garage. Wear clothes that you can part with afterwards. Put a gallon or two of gasoline in a bucket to clean the parts it, pour the residue on the neighbor's dog when finished. Its messy, but not all that technicaly challenging. Simple enough in fact, that Obama would simply command it, saying, "Change!" and it would likely fix itself. Ok I made up that last part.
tech please
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zuluzeugma
SILVER Star
1. diesel fuel (for cleaning)
2. Suite-case of beer
3. bottle of advil (for hangover)
4. brass drift
5. 54MM socket (or just use a skinny brass drift and hammer the nut around (I've done this trick every time with good luck))
6. 10MM, 12MM, 14MM, 17MM, and 19MM sockets
GL
2. Suite-case of beer
3. bottle of advil (for hangover)
4. brass drift
5. 54MM socket (or just use a skinny brass drift and hammer the nut around (I've done this trick every time with good luck))
6. 10MM, 12MM, 14MM, 17MM, and 19MM sockets
GL
ntsqd
technerd
Recommend the day before that the cone washers be sprayed with PB Blaster. Get a jump start on any rust that might be there.
Don't do it with out a FSM, 2 1/8" Socket will work if you can't find a 54mm or a brass punch and hammer will work but its hard to attach a torque wrench to them. You need a fish scale to check the bearing preload on the knuckle bearings and you will have to seperate the tie rod ends to do it right. So you will need a puller or a pickle fork. If you use a pickle fork you will prolly need new tie rod ends. Everyone is currently out of stock of tie rod ends. I just did mine, the first side took twice as long as the second. Its a fun job and not nearly as bad as people make it out to be. You will also have to remove your brake calipers and will need to bleed them when you go back on with them, something to think about if you are alone.
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dont forget those handy dandy snap ring pliers, if your doing both hub, and knuckle, you need both reverse, and normal
Hub socket
metric wrenches and sockets (10, 12, 14, 17)
snap ring pliers
brass drift
hammer
fish scale
torque wrench
seal puller (long screw driver can work sortof)
scraper (to remove old gaskets)
TRE puller
misc screwdrivers/pliers
10mm brake wrench
steel drift (for star washer, and removing races)
grease
gear oil
paper towels
patience
solvent
anti-sieze
brake fluid
brake cleaner
metric wrenches and sockets (10, 12, 14, 17)
snap ring pliers
brass drift
hammer
fish scale
torque wrench
seal puller (long screw driver can work sortof)
scraper (to remove old gaskets)
TRE puller
misc screwdrivers/pliers
10mm brake wrench
steel drift (for star washer, and removing races)
grease
gear oil
paper towels
patience
solvent
anti-sieze
brake fluid
brake cleaner
I'm going to echo three things. This is a very messy job. Not at all hard or technical, just messy so ...
- A box of nitrile gloves, the blue ones. You can get them from Lowes in the paint department.
- Take the truck to a self-serve car wash and blast the snot out of the knuckles front, rear, top and bottom. Get them shiny clean. Pick a car wash that doesn't have wimpy pressure. Soak them first with engine cleaner.
- Put an apple box under the knuckle as you work on it. Drop the old gaskets, seals, paper towels, and split gloves straight down. Line with a plastic bag if you want (oil!). Not the beer cans. Recycle those please.
^-----this advice is spot on!
I know because I didn't do so
I know because the first time I rebuilt a knuckle I didn't do it either.
sneak peak of the innards
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Keep track of the shims and if they were on top or bottom and how many were on top and bottom.
Yup, the shims make a difference. Factory should be 1 thick and 1 thin on top and 1 thick on bottom. It "should" set up the same on the bottom.
BTW, this is a very simple job and I think A LOT of people here over think it.
The only 2 tools that might not be in a most people's tool box are the 54 mm socket and the fish scale. Other than that you can do it with a few tools from a standard tool set.
BTW, this is a very simple job and I think A LOT of people here over think it.
The only 2 tools that might not be in a most people's tool box are the 54 mm socket and the fish scale. Other than that you can do it with a few tools from a standard tool set.
I agree with most everything listed above. Especially the mess parts & the shim part. I also recommend the H-D seal/felt retainers on the back side, as they won't dent & ruin your felts & seals if crap gets in the way when wheelin & turning.. I have done this rebuild only 4 times in the past (2 mini trucks, 1 FJ40 & 1 FJ60) they are all the same. I have never had to remove the tie rod ends or the brake calipers. I may be missing something here, but I have never had to do those things. You received a lot of great advice & direction with this post. Enjoy the task.
