Knuckle Rebuild/BIRF Job (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jan 25, 2008
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672
Location
Birmingham, Alabama
Website
www.trucksplusinc.com
My general mechanic has completed my knuckle rebuild with no issue. I know most folks do it themselves but for many thats not an option. I searched all over town and only one other mechanic would do it, but I did not get a warm fuzzy feeling after talking to him.

He will do both sides for $400, you bring your own parts. $350 payable to the shop and $50 cash for him. That can include all the brakes, birfs, and seals if you want. I replaced everything but the birfs; calipers, rotors, studs, and all seals. He did a great job, took 3 days, followed the FSM, and packed more moly grease in those knuckles than I have ever seen! He can be trusted and lets you supply the parts, does not get any better than that. Shoot me a PM and I can get you in touch.
 
Now that is awesome! To have a mechanic follow the FSM and use the parts your bring... that's very nice! This is a very long job, so that's easily worth the cost, especially when done right.
 
For some reason I get the feeling that the second time he does a rebuild on a cruiser axle it will be more than $400. Any other shop that knows LCs charge between $800-1000 for that job.

so that's easily worth the cost, especially when done right.


That is the real kicker......
 
^^^

Are you saying 800-1000 for labor or the whole job?
 
That is the real kicker......


You'd have to agree that the axle is an extremely easy job, it just takes an extremely long time, and that's why there's room for error... time = fatigue = error...

I've been in the 80 series axle so many times that i don't need an FSM, but it helps others who haven't. I would not hesitate to say that over half of these axles rebuilt by a non-FSM type mechanic are assembled incorrectly, including the toyota master techs that refuse to use an FSM. My new truck is evidenced by this mechanic blunder, the last time it was done, there were some mickey mouse errors (plural) on it that I'm been finding. Almost to the point that I will have to PM the axle from the ground up just because i don't trust it. Gaskets in the wrong place... brake dust shield thrown away thus making the caliper rub the piston slightly... bolts used in the place of flange studs... mickey mouse and unexcusable.


I'm glad to see mechanics doing this!
 
I allowed him to take his time and did not rush him. The shop depends on my business to stay open, so I pulled a "favor" to get him to do it in the first place. After he was done, he said like landspeeder said, it was pretty easy just labor intensive. I told him I could swing more jobs his way if he wanted them and his reply was no problem we need the money!!!! He has been working on cars a long time, so he remembers alot of the older solid axle type stuff. As long as you dont need it done in one day, he is happy to get the work.
 
It takes a folk on either side of that axle to accomplish an axle rebuild in one weekend day... he did good to have it done in 3 business days by himself.
 
I agree, it was a smooth job. My truck came from Ohio, so you can imagine getting all those rusty bolts off. He figured the axel had been into maybe once before since 1983. So $400 for a job that should last 12 plus years is not bad. He would have finished in 2 days had I not needed 2 new calipers. BTW, rotors and calipers for the 60 series are cheap, I was shocked. My dealer discount is not that big, $36 per caliper and $26 each for rotors.
 
I've done this 2 times. My 87 60 was the 1st and learner. Tons of rusty parts, had to drill, burn and chistle the cone washers off the top + Complete brake redo all 4. It took a while. 2nd time was a few weeks ago on dad's 40. I could have had it done in one day, but got off to a late start + a trip to the store for gear oil.

Hey Landspeeder! I did it without a FSM! Didn't need one, I had MUD.:grinpimp:
 
It is a fairly straight forward job but it can be tricky especially if you haven't done it before. And like Eric said, it is very time consuming. Getting the trunnion bearing preload correct is crucial and is a step that some people overlook. There is a solid 8 hours in getting everything removed, cleaned, Blasted, painted and reassembled. Hence the $800 in labor for the job. The rebuild kit, brake pads, rotor turning, and fluids make up the rest of the $1000 price tag for our rebuilds. We also include brakes and pads which some people dont as well as replacing the wheel bearings if needed.

Oh Ya, also don't forget to put the felt and scrapers on before the knuckle..........Only done that a few times.

If done correctly an axle rebuild is a project that at worst should only need to be done every 100k, short of exploding a Birfield.

P.S. Just for s***s and giggles call your dealer and get a quote for a rebuild and ask them what it includes.
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I am sure the 80 series rebuild could be more expensive than the 60, however my understanding is the rebuild on a 60 and 80 are very similar. Anybody done both??? Compare and contrast....
 
Very Similar. The 80s don't have hubs and the steering arm is on the bottom. They also have the ABS sensor. Other than that they are effectively identical. I think the 80s are even a bit easier than the 40-60 axles.
 
I've done both, bout the same overall, but the 80 is bigger, and i know that sounds lame, but it appears to be easier.
Funny, I've never done an 80 with ABS... no plans to in the near future either! My 94 is old skool.
 
So its safe to say he should charge the same for an 80 as he does the 60.
My actual cost on this job:

$269.50 TPI Master knuckle kit Call#615-826-8853 Out of TN. Item code for 60 series #43KIT-2M (need 2)
$400.00 Labor
$160.00 2 New Calipers, Rotors, Pads, Studs & Lug nuts
$40.00 Molly grese, brake cleaner, 90w gear oil, misc shop
________
$869.50 Parts and Labor
 
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I'd think so
 
The kit was an impulse buy on my end, I did not really shop around much. I liked the complete kit aspect and not having to shop around for the individual parts. Timken bearings I think in the kit I got, they are always the highest price.
 
I have used the service kits from Trail Gear ($75, 140006-1-K) & Marlin ($99.00) which now comes with Marlin's HD inner axle seal ($8.99 ea.). Marlin's kit appeared to be the best. The HD inner axle seals to me were worth using. You remove the posibility of driving the seal in to far. The kits w/ wheel bearings are TG $145 & MC $169. Trail Gear does have some beafy RockRings ($19, 140051-1-K) to replace skinny factory ones. I know some like to use Toyota brand, but for stuff that I will most likley be back into, I didn't see spending the extra $. It might be different if it was the sole daily driver.
 

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