Knuckle Rebuild Birf issue

[Joshua993]

So I am doing the rebuild on my knuckles for the first time - following the Morgan rebuild thread to the letter, and it is great stuff! Thx to him for that.

When I pulled the pax side axle, the birf was not very loose or smooth - it felt gritty when tried to articulate it, and then it locked at an angle and now requires some effort to move. I am going to pull the birfs apart tomorrow to check the bearings. Time for new birfs maybe? A little more info: The pax side was not very greasy or messy, where the drivers side was ultra-slimy as the axle seal had gone off.

 

[cruiser88]

Are you trying to rotate the birf with it in? If so it will not turn very good at all JUST with the birf in.
Without the all the stuff installed (minus the lockouts) it is not centered and will not turn properly.

 

[cruiser88]

Ok ...I re-read your post .....just try cleaning all the dirt and grim out then regrease. It should move freely when clean and greased.

Check for rust /pittings and cracks in around the bell. use your own jugement if it requires more effort than you like give Bobby long a call

 

[zuluzeugma]

Ok ...I re-read your post .....just try cleaning all the dirt and grim out then regrease. It should move freely when clean and greased.

Check for rust /pittings and cracks in around the bell. use your own jugement if it requires more effort than you like give Bobby long a call

correct!

Brake cleaner/diesel fuel/whatever else

re-pack it and it should move freely

GL

 

[Joshua993]

Thanks guys! this is my first knuckle job - hopefully the last for a long while - so everything is a first for me. I shole be able to clean and re-pack without seperating the shafts, right?

 

[D'Animal]

Yes.

Brake Clean will be your friend.

Thanks guys! this is my first knuckle job - hopefully the last for a long while - so everything is a first for me. I shole be able to clean and re-pack without seperating the shafts, right?

 

[5280Hawk]

yep, fill the cavity with a solvent of your choice, let it set in there and dissolve the old grease a while and then pour it out. do that untill it runs out clear. It will take alot of solvent..... and paper towels.

 

[cruiser88]

yep, fill the cavity with a solvent of your choice, let it set in there and dissolve the old grease a while and then pour it out. do that untill it runs out clear. It will take alot of solvent..... and paper towels.

Then when it is all clean.....use it for a shot glass...then grease and reassemble.

 

[code 621]

compressed air was helpful when I did mine. just don't get in your eyes.

 

[Joshua993]

Trying to find a good solvent, but the only thing anyone has in any kind of quantity is Purple Power. Seems to do ok if you have the patience to let stuff soak. I may have to breakdown and buy a Saftey Kleen parts washing basin...

 

[Joshua993]

Then when it is all clean.....use it for a shot glass...then grease and reassemble.

Ahhh yes. Vodka - the original solvent.

 

[zuluzeugma]

Steal an old spatula from your mom/GF/Finace/wife and use that to get the grease back in the birf and between the wheel bearings. Makes life much easier and much less messy...

 

[Joshua993]

Cool - sounds a lot easier than the tongue depressers I was going to try.

Here is yet another newbie question - the back side of ball where the knuckle mounts is pretty rough and even rusted in some areas. The area where there appears to have been travel is clean and smooth. Is this a normal thing? Do I need to clean that up/off as well?

 

[cruiserjunktion]

Cool - sounds a lot easier than the tongue depressers I was going to try.

Here is yet another newbie question - the back side of ball where the knuckle mounts is pretty rough and even rusted in some areas. The area where there appears to have been travel is clean and smooth. Is this a normal thing? Do I need to clean that up/off as well?

I clean them up with a lil fine steel wool.

 

[DirtyLittleSecret]

A wire brush, acetone, brake cleaner, and towels...lots o' towels...rolls of towels...heck, a box of towels. Oh, and on occasion a grinding disk/resurfacer disk works wonders.

 

[Joshua993]

Cone Washers

So now that I have tore everything down, I realized there were no cone washers on the bottom four bolts on both of my knuckles. I thought there was supposed to be cone washers there. Mine is an 88 FJ62. Is this normal?

 

[Marc311]

I am 98% positive there are not cone washers on the bottom. Easy way to tell is if there is space around the stud for them. Or are you talking about the split-type lock washers?

As far as I remember, there are the cone washers on the hub and the steering arm. (I think I would remember trying to get those *&^% cone washers off upside down under the knuckle!)

 

[hank14]

Quick hijack question-

For a first time routine front axle repack, bearing, and seal replacement, do I need to order and plan on changing out the knnuckle studs as PM? I don't think there is anything wrong with mine, but I also don't want to have to wait a week for replacements during the middle of the job if there is a problem.

 

[zuluzeugma]

Quick hijack question-

For a first time routine front axle repack, bearing, and seal replacement, do I need to order and plan on changing out the knnuckle studs as PM? I don't think there is anything wrong with mine, but I also don't want to have to wait a week for replacements during the middle of the job if there is a problem.

Do you wheel hard? If you have the money to spend, buy the ARP studs from Marlin and never look back.

 

[5280Hawk]

Most don't replace their studs if they are in good shape.