Knuckle/knuckle arm - That's not good (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

cruiserdan said:
I don't really know and I have been thinking about it for a few minutes. The socket is kinda small and I imagine that anything over 35 lbs or so may break it or mess up the end of the stud.

You see when you tighten up a nut or bolt the stress is spread over the face of the nut or head of the bolt. With a stud all you are going up against is the tapered end where the threads end. I can't see that taper taking the full-on torque.


Agreed, and brilliant by the way, so this sorta leads me to the thought that we should not put locktite on those studs in case they break while wheeling...If I'm only gonna put 35lbs on them, I think I want the locktite more than ever!?! Like I wrote above, if the stud shears off right at the knuckle I think yer pretty screwed no matter if locktite's on it or not, and, if it leaves a little nub to grab to I think a strong visegrips is gonna gettit out? Whaddya think? Thanks. :cheers:
 
landtank said:
tighten until it snaps and then back it off a 1/2 turn.


Now that sir, is funnayy! :D :flipoff2: :D
 
landtank said:
if you're nervous get some red locktite in there. A little heat on the stud will crystallize it if you need to remove them.



Hmmm, brilliant, I was gonna use blue but this makes more sense, thanks! :cheers:
 
I tear down gearboxes all the time that have been locktited together. We're talking multiple gears on a 25mm shaft with a bearing on each end in a cast housing.


NO BIG DEAL!!! use of a simple propane torch will crystilize the locktite with in minutes and a set of plyers will remove the stud.

On smaller shafts that are around 10mm in diameter I use a butane torch I got at Radio Shack.
 
Good to see this thread back from the dead. I have 3 cruisers with updated studs and no lock-tite. When torquing the studs into the housing, It won't take 70 ft/lbs. I *think* I did mine to 50 and they have been fine and not loosened up. The bottom line is they need to be tight, and fully seated in the threads of the knuckle without stripping the knuckle. How's that for a recomendation-tight, but not too tight!

Those chrome-moly studs look really nice, but spendy. If the chrome moly studs had torx heads like OEM, then I would use them regardless of price.
 
Well, as an update, I went with 35 lbs and red locktite. I cannot imagine 50 pounds; I purposely avoided clamping the knuckle down too tight to the vise or anything at all like that - I simply held the knuckle down with my left arm and held it steady with my knees - I really wanted to feel the force I was exerting on those studs and anything more than 35 lbs, while possible, felt way too tight. I'll make this part of my regular torque tests and report back IF the studs ever actually back out. Thanks all. :cheers:
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom