knuckle bearing repack (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter PHAEDRUS
- Start date
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Kewl. 
-B-
-B-
- Thread starter
- #43
Hey all
FWIW the job is done finished late friday night, very happy with the results no more clicking around corners and should not have any more weeping of diff fluid into the knuckles. From what the rebuilder of the birf told me It was pretty bad they had to weld a ring on the shaft to keep the seals to seat properly. also had about 2 mils of movement in the balls on the axle so definitely glad I had them done.
as to landtanks point on the inner axle seal I "inspected" the oe parts and the parts from man-a-fre, both stamped wtih ngk looked identical so probably a wasted 8 bucks but at least a have a spare set for the next reservice.
In retrospect I would have done the same things and It really was not that bad (about 12 hours total 2 of wich was cleaning all of the parts once off) The only tool I wish I had in my box now was a race setter for the knucke and wheel races.
Cheers to all and thanks for the help
Dave
p.s. I even pre read this before posting to avoid the wrath of cruiserdan.
FWIW the job is done finished late friday night, very happy with the results no more clicking around corners and should not have any more weeping of diff fluid into the knuckles. From what the rebuilder of the birf told me It was pretty bad they had to weld a ring on the shaft to keep the seals to seat properly. also had about 2 mils of movement in the balls on the axle so definitely glad I had them done.
as to landtanks point on the inner axle seal I "inspected" the oe parts and the parts from man-a-fre, both stamped wtih ngk looked identical so probably a wasted 8 bucks but at least a have a spare set for the next reservice.
In retrospect I would have done the same things and It really was not that bad (about 12 hours total 2 of wich was cleaning all of the parts once off) The only tool I wish I had in my box now was a race setter for the knucke and wheel races.
Cheers to all and thanks for the help
Dave
p.s. I even pre read this before posting to avoid the wrath of cruiserdan.
fAvE,
Please do not replace your KeE BroOaD.........I would desperately miss it.... :tear: If you did we would have no way of knowing it was really you. BTW you missed a "wtith"
Glad to hear your chocolate mess is back togther...
Who in SLC did the Birf re-build for you?
Regards....Dan
Footnote to those who hesitate to ask for help: We sometimes tease but that's a small price to pay.....You could be visiting the shop to the tune of 80 bucks or more an hour..........liberal taunting is cheap....by comparison
GaRTerLEsS.......DaMN
Please do not replace your KeE BroOaD.........I would desperately miss it.... :tear: If you did we would have no way of knowing it was really you. BTW you missed a "wtith"
Glad to hear your chocolate mess is back togther...
Who in SLC did the Birf re-build for you?
Regards....Dan
Footnote to those who hesitate to ask for help: We sometimes tease but that's a small price to pay.....You could be visiting the shop to the tune of 80 bucks or more an hour..........liberal taunting is cheap....by comparison
GaRTerLEsS.......DaMN
Dave,
1. Thanks for keeping the group posted on your project.
2. Thanks a LOT for checking your spelling before pressing POST. I agree with -H-, it's much easier to read than trying to translate.
3. Do you have any changes or additions to Jim's excellent write-up. If we can improve it we're all better off.
4. Your brass drift makes a decent tool for installing the knuckle bearing races and the wheel bearing races.
-B-
1. Thanks for keeping the group posted on your project.
2. Thanks a LOT for checking your spelling before pressing POST. I agree with -H-, it's much easier to read than trying to translate.
3. Do you have any changes or additions to Jim's excellent write-up. If we can improve it we're all better off.
4. Your brass drift makes a decent tool for installing the knuckle bearing races and the wheel bearing races.
-B-
-B-
Glad to see you back, hope you had a nice holiday.
Don't give me all the credit for the write up. As you will recall, the original write up was done by you. I merely added to your info and incorporated that of others.
Cheers, Jim
Glad to see you back, hope you had a nice holiday.
Don't give me all the credit for the write up. As you will recall, the original write up was done by you. I merely added to your info and incorporated that of others.
Cheers, Jim
Jim,
Not a holiday but it's good to be back anyway. We 'mercans have this vacation/holiday thing all screwed up. We work 40-60 hrs per week and get 2 weeks vacation if we're lucky. Tenured employees MIGHT accrue up to 4 weeks if they are with a good company. We get around 7 holidays (New Years, Christmas, July 4th
) depending on regional customs and whether you work for a government agency or private company.
I believe the Europeans and Aussies have a much better approach to living and working. Oh well, maybe we can lobby congress for "Boxing Day"; my favorite.
-B-
(I Love the Wonder Truck <==== Cruiser content)
Not a holiday but it's good to be back anyway. We 'mercans have this vacation/holiday thing all screwed up. We work 40-60 hrs per week and get 2 weeks vacation if we're lucky. Tenured employees MIGHT accrue up to 4 weeks if they are with a good company. We get around 7 holidays (New Years, Christmas, July 4th
) depending on regional customs and whether you work for a government agency or private company.I believe the Europeans and Aussies have a much better approach to living and working. Oh well, maybe we can lobby congress for "Boxing Day"; my favorite.
-B-
(I Love the Wonder Truck <==== Cruiser content)
Phaedrus, I was worned about the seal thing on another board and at that time they were different. That was about 6 months ago so maybe they have corrected that. Glad to see you are back in shape.
Rick
Rick
B-
You're in the wrong buisiness. All you have to do is work a zillion hours a day, get paid for crap and get 10 weeks in the summer and two weeks at christmas and a week at easter.
Live the dream and be a public school teacher.
I put about 40 hours in on the cruiser last week during spring break.
You're in the wrong buisiness. All you have to do is work a zillion hours a day, get paid for crap and get 10 weeks in the summer and two weeks at christmas and a week at easter.
Live the dream and be a public school teacher.
I put about 40 hours in on the cruiser last week during spring break.
- Thread starter
- #51
Thanks all for the support. yeah I will take a little ribbing from the likes of you in exchange for teh info needed to do the job right. in response to questions:
Dan the rebuilder was an outfit called cv axle express. they are in slc and are who the local dealer recomended and who I have used through my work in a body shop for Heep driveline rebuilds in the past.
-B- the only thing I would add to Jim's write up is on estep I took prior to starting the project. I pulled the lower drain plug on the diff housing and let it drain for about an hour prior to tearing in to it. Still a messy job but it kept the mudslide from coming out of the axle tube when I pulled the axles. as to the brass drift yeah it would have worked but the race installer was just so easy!
Dave
Dan the rebuilder was an outfit called cv axle express. they are in slc and are who the local dealer recomended and who I have used through my work in a body shop for Heep driveline rebuilds in the past.
-B- the only thing I would add to Jim's write up is on estep I took prior to starting the project. I pulled the lower drain plug on the diff housing and let it drain for about an hour prior to tearing in to it. Still a messy job but it kept the mudslide from coming out of the axle tube when I pulled the axles. as to the brass drift yeah it would have worked but the race installer was just so easy!
Dave
Dave,
Thanks for the feedback on Jim's procedure.
I guess draining the front diff depends on how you're approaching supporting the raised truck. My assumption was that you would jack up the truck and support the front axles at the same height on both sides. Doing one side, then the other while the truck was stilll on jack stands.
If you are doing one side, then the other, the diff fluid will leak out. Doing both at the same time only loses a small amount of diff fluid and doesn't require a drain/fill.
In your case, you knew the diff fluid was heavily contaminated and had to be drained anyway. Good point!
-B-
Thanks for the feedback on Jim's procedure.
I guess draining the front diff depends on how you're approaching supporting the raised truck. My assumption was that you would jack up the truck and support the front axles at the same height on both sides. Doing one side, then the other while the truck was stilll on jack stands.
If you are doing one side, then the other, the diff fluid will leak out. Doing both at the same time only loses a small amount of diff fluid and doesn't require a drain/fill.
In your case, you knew the diff fluid was heavily contaminated and had to be drained anyway. Good point!
-B-
A thought just ocurred to me.... I was under my truck looking for oil leaks, having replaced the seal on the tming chain tensioner.... I noticed that the ball joint (that's not the right word for it) was pretty dry. I repacked my birfields only two months ago and was expecting to see some seepage of grease - keeping the 'ball' well lubricated. Could it be that the purpose of the filler is to pass lubrication onto this part??
Cheers, Jim
Cheers, Jim
Jim,
Chances are that your new wipers are still wiping. I did mine about 6 months back, they look clean still. As they degrade more grease will get past them. You can pull the plug and peek inside somewhat and determine the level.
BTW pulling the plug and sticking a wire down inside is a useful diagnostic to see if gear oil is starting to infiltrate the knuckle...........................................
Chances are that your new wipers are still wiping. I did mine about 6 months back, they look clean still. As they degrade more grease will get past them. You can pull the plug and peek inside somewhat and determine the level.
BTW pulling the plug and sticking a wire down inside is a useful diagnostic to see if gear oil is starting to infiltrate the knuckle...........................................
