knuckle bearing repack (1 Viewer)

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To answer my own question the inner shaft seal from toyota is 90310-35010, for what its worth 4.08 each for toyota at my shop discount.
Dave :beer:
p.s.
as to dan idea of every 60k might be a little excessive but hey if it gets you otu of yard work...... I bouhgt mine wiht a slight sound out of the right frnt side but figured I would just rebuild the whole thing in one big mess. It only took me 8 months to get the time!
 
fAVe,

fER, CRIyin' oUt LOud,



FiX YeR danmnH Kee BRoaD

rEgaRdleSS.....dAmN........ :beer:
 
:flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2:
Spell check is for sissies.
Dave :beer:
 
Ya got that one right, by crackie......... :banana:


BTW teh SnapER RInd is 90521-34005 (that's the one on the end of the inner shaft)

It's Fryday........... :beer:


Regards....Dan :beer: :beer: (2 pints low)
 
Ok thanks landtank. I will repack at 100k.
 
Wrench,
The suggested interval for the full front axle service is 60k miles.  You will probably be stubborn and wait until 100k but you've been advised by a "Rookie" member so take it for what it's worth.

Ask Simon what he would recommend.
-B-
 
Wrench,
The suggested interval for the full front axle service is 60k miles.  You will probably be stubborn and wait until 100k but you've been advised by a "Rookie" member so take it for what it's worth.

Ask Simon what he would recommend.
-B-
Since I bought my 80 at 70k. I think I don't have to worry about being "stubborn". I'll just change it at 100k. I checked and the grease is still good in there.
 
Wrench,
How did you check that the grease in the CV was still good?
-B-
 
Wrench,
How did you check that the grease in the CV was still good?
-B-
Glad you asked. There is a plug on top of the knuckle that I took out. Looked in. Pulled out nice gray grease. So I think that is what it is suppose to look like. But I did go through alot of mud and water last wheeling trip so I might check it again.
 
Wrench,
Glad you replied. You don't have a clue. The grease you saw doesn't get anywhere near the CV joint. Save the posts on part numbers for the birfield bits and the replacement procedure; you'll need it.
-B-
 
Yeah ok.....
 
Well I guess the little adapter I made is useless. I used a 3/8 pipe x 1/8 pipe bushing and put a grease fitting in it. Every time I did my normal greasing I would use a 1/2 inch 8 point, take out the pipe plug, screw in my little adapter and give it a few pumps of Valvoline Synthetic. :tear: Well, I'll try to look at the bright side - I have a well greased something because the grease went somewhere. :D
 
Bill,
What you probably have is a very well lubed lower trunion bearing.  :D

TRE_intact.jpg


The above image shows the location of the plug that you are using to fill. This is on the outer knuckle housing. None of these images are from an 80 series but they accurately represent the 80's knuckle.

meas_knuckle_races.jpg


The above image shows what the CV goes into. The housing with the plug you are using goes around this and the plug would be on the left side (in the picture) on the back/forward part of the external housing. The grease pumped in here would go down around the housing to the lower trunion bearing. I guess if you have enough gear oil mixing with the grease then you could get a "pool" deep enough to seep into the housing and get into the CV. However, this isn't the way it is supposed to be lubricated.

reass_birfield-3.jpg


The above is a properly packed CV (aka Birfield). Before assembly, the inner axle will get shoved into the center of the Birfield joint and then the assembly will be inserted into the cavity in the first image.  I don't think you can pump enough grease at the back of the housing to get into the above location where it is needed to prevent CV failure.

-B-
 
Thanks for the info -B-. I wonder then what their point was for putting in the pipe plug? :dunno:
Bill
 
I am assuming the PO of my mini was a big fan of the pipe plug method of filling the knuckle. The axle housing was pumped full of grease. I noticed the breather vent on the axle was pumping grease out of it. When I pulled the diff drain plug nothing came out. I pulled the fill plug and grease started glugging out.
Two days of cleaning later, along with a complete seal replacement for the entire axle, I have grease in the knuckles and gear lube in the axle like it's supposed to be.
My 80 axle seals failed the other way and were leaking lube into the knuckles and out the birf seals. That happened at about 80,000 miles. I'll pull it all down again at 130-140,000. If I replace a birf, I want it to be because it exploded on a trail doing something fun, not wearing out at the mall looking for a parking spot.
 
Ok thanks Beowulf for explaining that. :D But I have one question. Why does the FSM not mention anything about doing the repack? Am I missing something?
 
Bill,
I wonder then what their point was for putting in the pipe plug?

That question has been bantered about several times. My completely uninformed guess is that it offers a way to get some thicker lubrication into the knuckle when the thing starts leaking so bad that nothing but gear oil is coming out of the seals. Kinda third world 'keep it rolling' type of fix.

As I said in the earlier post you could have a thick sludge type of lubrication that would pool at the bottom of the knuckle cavity. As the CV turns it would spread this liquid around and keep some lubrication in the joint. Mine in fact, were at this stage when the front axle service was first done at 108k. The long side was very nearly dry; the short side was a little better.

-B-
 
Wrench,
I suggest that you read your FSM again. The procedure is covered in detail.
-B-
 

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