I believe 90980–11156
Keyless Entry chirp added to 98' 100- EZ Mod (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter gopriest31
- Start date
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Hi all, resurrecting this thread as I've started this on my 2007 LC 100 series 2UZ-FE (right hand drive in Aus) but have come up against a different Remote Central Locking module (pics attached). It has 12 pins not 14 but does still have 2 female unpinned slots. However, a quick test with a multi meter see no voltage across these or from these to ground when opening/closing locks. More than this I was getting 12V from 3 pins (to ground), about 6 volts from a few more and struggling to find any pinouts that were showing voltage changes (although the small signal time of 0.13 seconds combined with a cheap multimeter doesn't help. I have the LX470 chirper and have located the bracket under the driver's side fender (RHS for me of course) to mount it BUT no wiring at all here so running a new pair. Am considering getting an aftermarket RCL module to use this or trying to figure out if I can tap one of the turn signal pinouts to run the piezo buzzer. Anyone else tried this with this model RCL module (PZQ71-12071)? Any assistance appreciated - just need signal out clue...
Reviving this topic with a full guide now that I’ve completed the install. The job isn’t hard as long as you have the right parts and a little patience under the dash (easily the most awkward part).
Parts Used:
Parts Used:
- Toyota OE Buzzer
Part number: 89747-60010 - Side Marker Pigtail
Part number: 90980-11156 (generic part from Amazon) - Metra 71-8112
15-pin reverse radio harness – for the pins - Replacement Fender Clips
You will break some of the factory ones when removing the liner
- Accessing the Module Connector
Unplug the connector from the wireless door lock control module in the driver’s footwell. Photos of the module and plug can be found earlier in this thread. You can technically unplug it without removing anything, but you won’t have much room to work. Removing the lower dash panel is very straightforward and makes the job easier.
- Add Pins to the Factory Connector
Use a pin extractor tool or tiny flathead to remove pins from the Metra harness. Insert these pins into positions 2 and 3 of the factory connector. These correspond to BZR and BZR2 in the ECU diagram found earlier in this thread.
- Routing Wires Through the Firewall
Punch a small hole through the main rubber firewall grommet in the engine bay and feed two wires through. Inside the cabin, crimp those wires onto the pins you added in Step 2. Tidy up the wiring and you’re done under the dash.
- Accessing the Buzzer Location in the Fender
Remove the inner fender liner:
A mix of plastic push clips and a couple screws.
No need to fully pull it out of the car — just drop the liner onto the tire to make room.
- Wiring the Buzzer
You’ll likely find an unused factory connector in the wheel well that looks like it should plug into the buzzer. While tempting to use, I wouldn’t recommend it:
- The wiring is old and brittle (20+ years of wheel well exposure)
- The wires disappear into a large harness and are difficult to trace
- Much easier and more reliable to use your new wires
- Pull the factory connector and grommet into the engine bay
- Snip it off
- Feed the two wires you ran earlier through the factory grommet and reseal it in the fender
- Hook Up the Buzzer
Connect your two wires to the side marker pigtail.
Plug it into the OE Toyota buzzer.
Bolt the buzzer to the existing tab in the fender with a Toyota 10mm bolt. I wasn't smart enough to figure out exactly how this mounted up and I wanted it up as high as possible to avoid any splashing.
