Key programming (1 Viewer)

[Squashola]

Finally got my 05' transponder chip programmed. The info above apparently only applies to 03-04'. The 05' is a "D" chip. Here are the simple steps.

1. all doors closed
2. master key in and out of ignition 5 times, leave in on 5th time, no turning ever
3. open and close driver door 6 times, leave closed on 6th time
4. pull master key, get solid security light
5. insert new key, blinks for 60 seconds then goes out
6. pull key and open door to cancel mode
7. test new key

This worked perfectly on lx 470 2005. So helpful. Used the following link to program the remote.
. This is amazing. Ordered a key from 1010 keys on eBay. They cut the key based on a photo I sent them. Cost me a total of $ 56 versus $350 from the dealer. Unbelievable.

 

[nosam]

I seem to be odd man out here on the key thing.

99LC came with 1 key in a taped together housing and was pretty worn, but everything worked. I bought a cheap blank off ebay with no transponder and the deal cut me a new one from the VIN. Put old transponder in new housing with dealer cut key. Works great on all locks and remote functions.

Wanted to get a spare. Bought Amazon product ASIN B06Y2DYZQ3 after reading through this and multiple other threads here. Locksmith cut the new one from my existing. I came home and tried to program. No joy. Reread this thread following the Sequence E steps.

So i went to verify my key is a master. This is where mine is different. Others are saying "the light should go out as soon as it's inserted." Either with the security light flashing or solid when I insert it the light stays on its current state, flashing or solid. Only when I turn it to the ON position does it immediately go out and I can start the vehicle. Since it goes out when turned and works it seems to be a master. But i have tried multiple times to "Delete all except current master", with no verification that actually does anything. And with Sequence E to add the new key with no success.

Any ideas?

 

[nosam]

So I ordered a new key blank that specifically says it has the 4C transponder in it. Pulled the transponder out of the other new key to prevent any confusion and tried the programming sequence again with the new 4C key held against the shell of the newly cut. Still no luck. I guess I'll just have to go to a dealer and see what they say.

 

[GTV]

Finally got my 05' transponder chip programmed. The info above apparently only applies to 03-04'. The 05' is a "D" chip. Here are the simple steps.

1. all doors closed
2. master key in and out of ignition 5 times, leave in on 5th time, no turning ever
3. open and close driver door 6 times, leave closed on 6th time
4. pull master key, get solid security light
5. insert new key, blinks for 60 seconds then goes out
6. pull key and open door to cancel mode
7. test new key

Can confirm this works on an '07 LC as well. Thank you!

 

[aharlan001]

Has anyone had luck with the 07 lx? I can't seem to get into the programming mode for the fob or immobilizer through the hokey pokey methods mentioned or through techstream.

 

[aharlan001]

Has anyone had luck with the 07 lx? I can't seem to get into the programming mode for the fob or immobilizer through the hokey pokey methods mentioned or through techstream.

Also I'm not sure if I have a master key or not. When I put the key in the ignition the security light continues to blink with both keys that I have. With the key that has a built in fob the light turns out immediately when I turn the ignition on. With the key that has no built in fob the light blinks a few times after turning to on. This is not consistent with what I have read. Per an earlier post if the key is inserted and not turned the light should go off immediately if it is a master and after a few blinks if it is a valet. Continued blinking with a key in the ignition reflects an unrecognized key however this isn't the case because both keys start the car. Is there a change to how master keys are identified in later years?

 

[nosam]

Also I'm not sure if I have a master key or not. When I put the key in the ignition the security light continues to blink with both keys that I have. With the key that has a built in fob the light turns out immediately when I turn the ignition on. With the key that has no built in fob the light blinks a few times after turning to on. This is not consistent with what I have read. Per an earlier post if the key is inserted and not turned the light should go off immediately if it is a master and after a few blinks if it is a valet. Continued blinking with a key in the ignition reflects an unrecognized key however this isn't the case because both keys start the car. Is there a change to how master keys are identified in later years?

This is the same behavior my '99LC exhibits with the only key I have. Light flashes when inserted, but turn to first position and light immediately goes out. I have not been able to add a new key either. I'm going to try the programming sequence while turning keys to the first position and see if it will add a new one.

EDIT: Success! I first followed the steps to 'Remove all Except 1 Master' but turned my working key to the first position so the security light goes out. Then I got the flash like stated indicating keys have been cleared. Then for mine I followed the Sequence E steps for the 98-02 programming, only once again turning the master to the first position so the security light goes out where the instruction say specifically not too. I can't remember if I turned the new key to first position or not though to add it. But the security light did go out after 80 seconds like supposed to. Maybe try it both ways?

The new key now starts the truck! I didn't mess with adding the remote functions yet because I was more worried about getting a second key that will start the vehicle in case I lose the "original".

 

[aharlan001]

This is the same behavior my '99LC exhibits with the only key I have. Light flashes when inserted, but turn to first position and light immediately goes out. I have not been able to add a new key either. I'm going to try the programming sequence while turning keys to the first position and see if it will add a new one.

EDIT: Success! I first followed the steps to 'Remove all Except 1 Master' but turned my working key to the first position so the security light goes out. Then I got the flash like stated indicating keys have been cleared. Then for mine I followed the Sequence E steps for the 98-02 programming, only once again turning the master to the first position so the security light goes out where the instruction say specifically not too. I can't remember if I turned the new key to first position or not though to add it. But the security light did go out after 80 seconds like supposed to. Maybe try it both ways?

The new key now starts the truck! I didn't mess with adding the remote functions yet because I was more worried about getting a second key that will start the vehicle in case I lose the "original".

Great that you got yours working. I was able to solve my irregular security light behavior. I hooked up techstream and noticed a code for B2780 Push Switch / Key Unlock Warning Switch Malfunction after a ton of trouble shooting turns out the switch was unplugged. Plugged it back in and now my master key turns the security light out as it should. I was able to program an additional key without a problem.

 

[milesc3]

Just FYI that I recently ordered the 2020 Card Key from lexuspartsnow.com (Part No.: 89904-48Q90) and so far it works great in the 2020 LC 200. I had it programmed at the Lexus dealership since I figured they did more of these than Toyota.

 

[Sayer Lane]

I hate to beat a dead horse and bring back an older thread, but I’m stumped. A little back story, 2000 LC bought it without a master key, only had a valet key. I’ve since bought a genuine Toyota key and today had it cut via the vin and the key code as a master. I will be purchasing a virgin immobilizer from Mauser soon, I want to have another master key cut first. My problem though, is that I should be able to program the keyless entry fob without the transponder being programmed correct? I can do the door lock sequence and get into programming mode without issue, my issue arises when I hold down the lock/unlock and then the lock button to program the keyless entry fob. I get no response from the door locks. Not even a failure response, which would be two lock sequences vs the one lock sequence for a successful program. I’ve checked the dome light fuse, which is intact and working. The keyless entry module is plugged in and all the wires intact. I’ve done this countless times over the past month and have had no luck. I’ve also attached pictures of my key. It looks to be a different or new style from the pictures I’ve seen, even though this is a genuine Toyota key from the dealership. Any help would be appreciated.

 

[Mauser]

I hate to beat a dead horse and bring back an older thread, but I’m stumped. A little back story, 2000 LC bought it without a master key, only had a valet key. I’ve since bought a genuine Toyota key and today had it cut via the vin and the key code as a master. I will be purchasing a virgin immobilizer from Mauser soon, I want to have another master key cut first. My problem though, is that I should be able to program the keyless entry fob without the transponder being programmed correct? I can do the door lock sequence and get into programming mode without issue, my issue arises when I hold down the lock/unlock and then the lock button to program the keyless entry fob. I get no response from the door locks. Not even a failure response, which would be two lock sequences vs the one lock sequence for a successful program. I’ve checked the dome light fuse, which is intact and working. The keyless entry module is plugged in and all the wires intact. I’ve done this countless times over the past month and have had no luck. I’ve also attached pictures of my key. It looks to be a different or new style from the pictures I’ve seen, even though this is a genuine Toyota key from the dealership. Any help would be appreciated.

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How many times are you turning the ignition switch at the end of the sequence?

 

[Sayer Lane]

How many times are you turning the ignition switch at the end of the sequence?

One time to Acc/On, not turning the engine over and back off.

 

[Mauser]

One time to Acc/On, not turning the engine over and back off.

Try twice

 

[Mauser]

Here os a bad video I made. Don't pay attention to how dirty my truck is.

 

[Sayer Lane]

Here os a bad video I made. Don't pay attention to how dirty my truck is.

Gave it a shot with the two turns of the key and the only difference I get is that the locks cycle twice when going into programming mode, but still won’t acknowledge the key buttons being pressed once in programming mode. I’ve followed your video as well as another that in this forum with no luck. The ECU for the keyless entry in located under the steering column on the left side almost above the fuse box correct? Orangish brown box with FCC ID numbers with 3-4 white wiring connections. I’m looking through parts diagrams and am also seeing a part PN:8974160061 that looks like it may also be integral to this system. Or is that the immobilizer? I’m sorry for the overload of questions, but in my years of turning wrenches and mechanic work I’ve never had a key fob kick my butt like this one is.

 

[menancyandsam]

Yea I have the same problem. I think its due to me having the wrong frequency. I can program the orig. master & valet no problem but when I try to program the ones I bought on Amazon they don't program.

 

[Sayer Lane]

Yea I have the same problem. I think its due to me having the wrong frequency. I can program the orig. master & valet no problem but when I try to program the ones I bought on Amazon they don't program.

I made sure to get the key per VIN and it’s also the HYQ1512V which is supposed to be for 98-02 from my understanding. I’m starting to wonder if I’m looking at the wrong antenna/receiver ECU for the key fob now that I’m looking at parts locations. It appears there is another module located to the right of the radio or above and to the left of the immobilizer in the dash panel. I’ll get the glovebox taken out tomorrow to see if somehow something was unplugged. I’m trying to keep this a simple fix without overthinking it but it’s really kicking my butt. It’s time to invest in some factory repair manuals for myself.

 

[loganbrew]

The transmitter housing in your paper plate pic looks like the 98-02 version, so nothing odd there (the 03+ looks noticeably different). Since the truck is acknowledging it's in program mode the door lock dance sequence is correct. It may have been asked already (pain to go read each prior post), but have you confirmed the battery is good? When buttons depressed the fob LED lights up strong?

 

[Sayer Lane]

Okay, went out in the rain and dug back under the dash. Correction, I am looking at the correct receiver beside the steering column. One plug with the FCC ID. I wondering if the receiver has gone bad or like others have said, I have the wrong frequency (goodness l hope not). I may try a cheap Amazon transponder in the next few days to see if the Toyota transponder is incorrect.

 

[Sayer Lane]

The transmitter housing in your paper plate pic looks like the 98-02 version, so nothing odd there (the 03+ looks noticeably different). Since the truck is acknowledging it's in program mode the door lock dance sequence is correct. It may have been asked already (pain to go read each prior post), but have you confirmed the battery is good? When buttons depressed the fob LED lights up strong?

It does light up fairly well, with each button pressed.