keep those special lug nuts!! (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter ktjensen
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can't have too many nuts..
Agreed, the shank style nuts are hard and expensive to find.
Yep, and be sure they're the right ones for the wheels you're running or may have to run. The lug nuts for the alloy and steel wheels are different. I'm running steelies on the 80 now, but have an extra set of alloy-style nuts in case I ever need to rob a wheel off the M101, as it is running on a pair of my old alloy rims.
Plus, weren't there two different styles of alloy lugnuts?
Plus, weren't there two different styles of alloy lugnuts?
So the hub-centric lugs are the shank style, correct? I have a set of tundra wheels for the 80 I hope to get some tires soon and I am pretty sure they are hub-centric and the current wheels are lug-centric and use the cone style lugs. I figured I could just pick up a set of lugs at the parts store, or the local tire shop at least, but from this thread it sounds like that may not be the case. Am I reading this correctly? or are you all talking about the factory locking lug nuts?
Glad I caught this thread, I will be on the look out for some alloy lug nuts.
Thanks,
Tucker
Glad I caught this thread, I will be on the look out for some alloy lug nuts.
Thanks,
Tucker
There are 2 diffent styles of lug nuts. I 'm sure the autoparts store carries both.
The shank style are for the factory hub centric wheels (later style alloys) and the lug centric one are for the earlier style alloys.
You can tell what style u need but looking at the wheels. The lug centric wheels have a tapered lug hole and will need the acorn style lug nuts.
The shank style are for the factory hub centric wheels (later style alloys) and the lug centric one are for the earlier style alloys.
You can tell what style u need but looking at the wheels. The lug centric wheels have a tapered lug hole and will need the acorn style lug nuts.
Wait a minute. I have a 96 fzj with fj cruiser wheels and 96 oem lugs. Am I running the wrong lugs? Aren't the fj cruiser lugs and my 96 fzj oem lugs the same? Doesn't autozone, advance, pep boys, or o'reilly's carry these lugs? Will some more big guns step in and clarify?
My secret?
I get them from a dealership tech. I just bring a box of donuts, or a case of coca-cola. Bam. Free lugnuts.
Apparently they take off a lugnut off each wheel during the PDI installation of wheel locks. So they have lots of spares.
- Thread starter
- #10
I went to Autozone and to Napa. They did not have the right lug nuts. Toyota lug nuts have a pressed on washer, perminant attached to the lug nut. Both these sources have lug nuts, and separate washers.
Toyota lug nuts do not let the washers float.
Online searches showed two different lug nuts. Alloy or Steel. Have to assume the Alloy are treated to prevent corrosion to the wheels. Different metals will cause corrosion by touching (just like on a boat - ship, were speciifc metals are attached to cause fast corrosion on the metal you want, and not on the propeller).
Toyota lug nuts do not let the washers float.
Online searches showed two different lug nuts. Alloy or Steel. Have to assume the Alloy are treated to prevent corrosion to the wheels. Different metals will cause corrosion by touching (just like on a boat - ship, were speciifc metals are attached to cause fast corrosion on the metal you want, and not on the propeller).
Ummm...you guys know that you only use the shank style lugnuts with your OEM alloy wheels for the hub centric years?
If you are buying aftermarket rims, you should not be using the shank nuts unless your wheels were designed for them (highly unlikely).
There is much ado around here about adding wheel spacers with stock alloys where the stock shank lugnuts do not properly center the rim as it is no longer centered by the hub.
The inverse is also true, although it seems there may be a market for selling shank lugs at a premium to people who don't need them
If you are buying aftermarket rims, you should not be using the shank nuts unless your wheels were designed for them (highly unlikely).
There is much ado around here about adding wheel spacers with stock alloys where the stock shank lugnuts do not properly center the rim as it is no longer centered by the hub.
The inverse is also true, although it seems there may be a market for selling shank lugs at a premium to people who don't need them
Here are the hub centric lugs for the 80 series on man-a-fre:
Gorilla Chrome Lug Nuts 80 Series
Made by Gorilla, so not OEM, but they look to have the pressed washers. $2.95...
Gorilla Chrome Lug Nuts 80 Series
Made by Gorilla, so not OEM, but they look to have the pressed washers. $2.95...
If FJ Cruiser rims are lug centric, you are using the wrong lug nuts. If they are hub centric and the washers fit properly, then you are good to go.
Ok so if I am mounting a set of tundra alloys onto ( pretty sure these are hub centric) onto a set of wheel spacers onto a 1991 front axle (originally lug centric) and a 1997 rear FF (honestly not sure since I've not examined any stock alloys) then which lugs are appropriate? If I am interpreting the ado mentioned by Nay correctly, then with the spacers on, then lug centric lugs should be used...
or do I have it backwards?
or do I have it backwards?
The use of lug centric and hub centric lugnuts is only dependent on style of wheel you are using...if the shank of the OEM lugnut fits into the wheel...the shank will center the wheel over the hub...if the lugnut shank will not sit into the wheel...completely down, and it has a conical bottom you would need a lug centric (acorn) style lugnut that most vehicles use.
Because most wheels, including the OEM Toyota wheels have a clear coat protective coating on them, you do not need to worry about electrolysis, which is what happens when dissimilar metals are touching each other without any kind of insulating layer between them. Electrolysis is promoted by outside variables (salt, water, air...combination of them...I am not a scientist, but I did sleep at a Holiday Inn last night)...it is also more quickly attacks thinner metals than larger metals. Aluminum and steel aren't typically friendly with each other, but in the case of wheels, as long as it's not raw aluminum against the steel lugnut you should be fine.
Some wheels, particularly those used on trailers have a steel insert at the wheel so that when the lugnut seats up against the wheel it remains torqued properly...longer. Not many wheels designed for automotive use have this feature.
The pressed on washer, in my opinion, is simply a convenience thing in lieu of the washer that floats...it is acting almost the same as the pressed in steel insert on a trailer wheel...giving the lugnut something to torque against and be less likely to back off. The difference between a pressed on washer and a floating washer should have no effect.
Both of these lugnut styles are readily available through many different retail establishments (some listed here). Though it was mentioned here, I have not found a quality set of aftermarket "BLACK" shank style lugnuts that fit the 80....if anyone knows of some, please let me know.
Because most wheels, including the OEM Toyota wheels have a clear coat protective coating on them, you do not need to worry about electrolysis, which is what happens when dissimilar metals are touching each other without any kind of insulating layer between them. Electrolysis is promoted by outside variables (salt, water, air...combination of them...I am not a scientist, but I did sleep at a Holiday Inn last night)...it is also more quickly attacks thinner metals than larger metals. Aluminum and steel aren't typically friendly with each other, but in the case of wheels, as long as it's not raw aluminum against the steel lugnut you should be fine.
Some wheels, particularly those used on trailers have a steel insert at the wheel so that when the lugnut seats up against the wheel it remains torqued properly...longer. Not many wheels designed for automotive use have this feature.
The pressed on washer, in my opinion, is simply a convenience thing in lieu of the washer that floats...it is acting almost the same as the pressed in steel insert on a trailer wheel...giving the lugnut something to torque against and be less likely to back off. The difference between a pressed on washer and a floating washer should have no effect.
Both of these lugnut styles are readily available through many different retail establishments (some listed here). Though it was mentioned here, I have not found a quality set of aftermarket "BLACK" shank style lugnuts that fit the 80....if anyone knows of some, please let me know.
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I experienced the difference in nuts recently. I have a 94. I wanted to paint the aluminum rims black but as a daily driver it was hard to find time. I bought factory LC rims from someone who already had them painted black. The rims had the same part number stamped on them as mine so I sent it to a shop to have the tires switched to the black rims. I went to Walker Valley in Washington on a Saturday to do some off roading. The next weekend our family went camping for a long weekend. I noticed a vibration in the steering wheel. It slowly got worse. I got out and one stud was broken off and all the lug nuts were loose...all 23 that were remaining. I tightened them up and went to the closest Toyota dealer to buy another stud and lug. I went to the campsite where i had my spare on my old rim. I then realized that my new Toyota rims were different then my new Toyota rims. My new ones are the centric lugs but I had the lugs for the old style tapered rims holding them on. That is why they were backing off. I went back to the Toyota dealership and spent $80 on the correct lugs.
We were very lucky the wheels didn't come off on the I5. Be careful when you change rims even if you are staying with factory Landcruiser rims.
We were very lucky the wheels didn't come off on the I5. Be careful when you change rims even if you are staying with factory Landcruiser rims.
Ok so if I am mounting a set of tundra alloys onto ( pretty sure these are hub centric) onto a set of wheel spacers onto a 1991 front axle (originally lug centric) and a 1997 rear FF (honestly not sure since I've not examined any stock alloys) then which lugs are appropriate? If I am interpreting the ado mentioned by Nay correctly, then with the spacers on, then lug centric lugs should be used...
Look at your stock rims - they have a space for the washer to seat and if the Tundra rims don't and have a tapered hole instead, then they aren't hub centric (or if they are, you are still using tapered nuts). The function of a hub centric lug nut is purely to create the force to seat the rim on the hub - it has no centering function and does not require a specific taper to create any centering function. Along with the pressed on washer, this is why it is a bad idea to use those lug nuts on a rim that is not designed for them.
On the other hand, the function of a "lug centric" lug nut is to center the rim on the wheel studs. You never use a washer for a lug centric setup that I am aware of because it makes no sense. The tapered "acorn" style centers the rim and creates the fit that prevents backing off.
The bottom line is pretty simple. It isn't about your truck or your hubs. It is purely about the rim. A simply visual will tell you what style lug nuts you need.
fwiw, 98 4Runner LTD lugs (split 3 spokes) work on both style 80 wheels..shank and and tapered. how do i know? i had a mismatched set of 80 series wheels on my runner...and the oem lugs off the runner worked on all of them. drove thousands of KM's and lots of wheeling with 35s...not a single problem. ran smooth as buttah.
and you can buy lugs that work with the shank style. i got mine from napa. they had black and chrome available...complete with pressed washer and all.
and you can buy lugs that work with the shank style. i got mine from napa. they had black and chrome available...complete with pressed washer and all.
Anybody see a reason why a set of these wouldn't work.
24 TOYOTA OEM STOCK WHEELS MAG LUG NUTS 12X1.5 1.5 | eBay
I need a full set and I looked at the ones on Man-A-Free and While I may eventually get a set of the Gorilla lugs or a set of OEM, I kinda need a set soon and these look the part and are about a third of the cost.
Any thoughts?
Tucker
24 TOYOTA OEM STOCK WHEELS MAG LUG NUTS 12X1.5 1.5 | eBay
I need a full set and I looked at the ones on Man-A-Free and While I may eventually get a set of the Gorilla lugs or a set of OEM, I kinda need a set soon and these look the part and are about a third of the cost.
Any thoughts?
Tucker
- Thread starter
- #20
Nice find!!
