KBB value and real value

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Joined
Sep 10, 2016
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3
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Location
Charlotte, NC
How much would you pay over KBB value for a good truck. Say one owner, same dealer serviced, southern, clean inside and out, needs nothing?

Or would not over pay KBB and just pay top end KBB.

Say KBB says it's max worth $10k would you go $11k or $12k ??
 
When I was searching for my LX470 I tried to follow the book value.
I quickly figured out for really nice LX470's KBB, NADA, etc were way too low.
I missed a lot of opportunities thinking those books were the gospel.
 
Depends on what kbb value you're looking at. I paid nada clean retail for my 03 in the condition you described.
 
I would pay over, especially if it is local because if you factor in all the time and cost of finding one more than an easy day trip away it really starts to add up quickly. That and KBB/NADA don't take into account the rarity of the vehicles, especially clean ones... I ran into that issue when dealing with the bank on financing, they said they only use KBB/NADA and I had to prove to them the value was over that.
 
The books are merely a guide.

My 98 was rough and I bought it at a dealership for $2000 less than book. Condition and maintenance records play a big role in the value. And as others have stated...I too would pay over book for the right vehicle.

Good luck!!
 
How much would you pay over KBB value for a good truck. Say one owner, same dealer serviced, southern, clean inside and out, needs nothing?

Or would not over pay KBB and just pay top end KBB.

Say KBB says it's max worth $10k would you go $11k or $12k ??

Not trying to rush you, but as you can see here there are people who are willing to pay full price or more for the right vehicle. If this truck is in that good of condition, you should move on it quickly or someone may buy it. Good luck!
 
Don't let an auto buy get away from you because of a 5 or 10% premium on a car that takes effort to locate, professional auto locators will tell you that. LC's are something of a rarity, maybe not in the same realm of certain audi, P car, benz, etc. But the scarcity of them puts them in the same boat. I have overpaid for used cars a lot. I think nothing of it. I stay in my yearly budget and I pay what I believe it's worth to me at the time of purchase, with almost zero thought of resale.
 
Thanks guys, seems I should jump on it. Jerryb already got my p car and I actually underpaid I felt but I researched that for close for 2 years and dealer didn't know what they really had.
 
awesome. I paid someone else to find my g50 carrera back in the day. I miss those day. When I get another job I want an 04 996t.

I'm very impatient when car selling and buying. I offer edmunds resale value on anything over 20k. it always works. I also sell with that price listed, and I usually get that. These days nada and kelly, to me seem out of date and far away from what they use to be. nada for loan value, kbb for dealer advertising, edmunds for what you should really pay.
I dump cars fast at edmunds true value, 2 in the last six weeks.
My downfall is emotion. I'm far better at buying cars for other people than I am for myself. Ex wife would agree.
 
At the end of the day a truck is worth what you are willing to pay for it and nothing more. Additionally, paying a premium for a low volume vehicle still needs to be justifiable. I always take the NADA, KBB and Edmunds price for my area and average them together and that is my starting point. Additionally, for things that have to absolutely be there (like shocks, battery, tires, wipers and brakes) but are very often aftermarkets, I view them as pure neutral. The truck better have them. Just because you chose an expensive version, that is your problem; chances are I dont want that exact model that you chose and will change them anyway.

If you are buying it with some mods, keep in mind you are buying those used as well. Don't allow his labor to be figured into the price unless it was built for you to your spec. Here is a good article that highlights a similar point. Selling a Modified Truck
 
At the end of the day a truck is worth what you are willing to pay for it and nothing more. Additionally, paying a premium for a low volume vehicle still needs to be justifiable. I always take the NADA, KBB and Edmunds price for my area and average them together and that is my starting point. Additionally, for things that have to absolutely be there (like shocks, battery, tires, wipers and brakes) but are very often aftermarkets, I view them as pure neutral. The truck better have them. Just because you chose an expensive version, that is your problem; chances are I dont want that exact model that you chose and will change them anyway.

If you are buying it with some mods, keep in mind you are buying those used as well. Don't allow his labor to be figured into the price unless it was built for you to your spec. Here is a good article that highlights a similar point. Selling a Modified Truck


Yeah it does have new tires and I don't really want to pay for them as I will swap them out pretty soon to something bigger.
 
Look at BlackBook, much more representative of market value for retail and trade in.

The trick with buying a 100 is knowing what maintenace and repairs it needs / will need when you buy it and pay accordingly.
 
Look at BlackBook, much more representative of market value for retail and trade in.

The trick with buying a 100 is knowing what maintenace and repairs it needs / will need when you buy it and pay accordingly.

Agree, like if your 10k away from another 90k service.
 
What is a typical cost for the 90K service?
I assume its more than just changing the Timing Belt and Water Pump.
 
What is a typical cost for the 90K service?
I assume its more than just changing the Timing Belt and Water Pump.


Pretty much that's all, and belts if you need them since they are coming off anyway. The cost lies in most garages now charging separate labor for the TB and the water pump. No point in arguing once they have your truck. Ask before hand. It is shameful but they have you by the beans once they do the work, regardless if removing the pump is a step in changing the TB. Expect closer to $2k than not if you are in a larger city or using a dealer.
 
What is a typical cost for the 90K service?
I assume its more than just changing the Timing Belt and Water Pump.

Depends on what you have done and if it's done at dealer or independent shop. Timing belt service, IMO, should include Timing Belt, Water Pump, Tbelt idler, Tbelt Tensioner, cam seals (non-VVTI), crank seal, heater t's, thermostat. The "official toyota" 90k also probably includes several other fluids, re-pack wheel bearings, and anything else that you will buy while you are spending money.
 

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