Kaymar Installation (1 Viewer)

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I have not replaced the flasher, and I do have all those ARB and Kaymar bulbs burning. No problems so far.

Same. I've been running ARB lights & Kaymar lights without issue.. but I'm preparing to pull a popup this summer and need to hook up some trailer lights as well..
 
Congrats on the new bumper. :cheers: I'm really looking forward to replacing mine someday. What was your final cost, including instal?
Cmon man we need pics.
 
Good thread - as soon as my bumper comes in. Damn boat from Australia must have sunk, or more likely the port in LA is way backed up. Very typical.

Interested in more feedback about the flashers upgrade, which fuses to upgrade on both the cabin and engine fuse block (i.e. which fuses and from what amp to what amp), etc. as I will be towing!

Thx!
 
Ok, twist my arm..

seriously, can anyone tell me (and Brent) what the correct flasher upgrade is? Because it sure ain't the EP36 that I bought the other day...

Later that night... (edit) ok maybe it is the right one after all, read on..
nak_80_kaymar.JPG
 
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Nice - very nice. How stout does the tow hitch arrangement look vs the factory tow hitch? Also, watcha going to do for mudflaps? Yosemite Sam would look good....


DougM
 
IdahoDoug said:
Nice - very nice. How stout does the tow hitch arrangement look vs the factory tow hitch? Also, watcha going to do for mudflaps? Yosemite Sam would look good....


It's rated at 3500 kg. (7716 pounds). No issues with stoutness. Designed to work with OEM mudflaps, but Yosemite Sam is always a winner... ;)
 
The hitch seems as stout or better than the class III I took off there, will easily hold more than should be carried/pulled by an 80 series.. at least this one. :D I do have OEM flaps in back, they're on there now. thanks guys! :beer:

back to the tech post- Kid at Checker looked up the flasher, said an EP35 is the one, or if you wanted the "tow rated" flasher, try a 170. 170? needless to say, the latter was not on the shelves, and a quick look at the EP35 appeared to be the same config as the EP36 I already had, so I bailed.

The EP36 won't fit into the plastic "spacer" that came out attached to the Toyota flasher. After further inspection of the spacer, it was obvious that the "extra" clip of the Toyota flasher really wasn't doing anything.. it's just jumpered over to the post on the opposite side.

Since the EP36 wouldn't fit to the spacer, I then tried to plug it in without it, and it slipped right in. and all of the things that are supposed to flash, well they flash. Pics show the EP36 flasher installed, (and a where's my flasher? answer for the kiddies! :flipoff2: ) second pic shows the toyota flasher, and the spacer. Hopefully I'll get a chance to pull this trailer within the next two weeks, after I wire up the trailer lights. I'll be back.. :rolleyes:
flasher.jpg
flasher2.jpg
 
Nak - Nice info and the bumper looks great. Have you looked into placement of your trailer wiring harness yet and are you running a 4-pin or 7-pin. I'll be real interested in your answer. I addition to the flasher unit, did you up any of your fuses as suggested above? Don't remember, did you do the install yourself or have it done? Only thing that I'm concerned about doing it myself is the drilling of the holes for the tire carrier. I'm a bit of a perfectionist and want to do it well and right!
 
Nak - Nice info and the bumper looks great. Have you looked into placement of your trailer wiring harness yet and are you running a 4-pin or 7-pin. I'll be real interested in your answer. I addition to the flasher unit, did you up any of your fuses as suggested above? Don't remember, did you do the install yourself or have it done? Only thing that I'm concerned about doing it myself is the drilling of the holes for the tire carrier. I'm a bit of a perfectionist and want to do it well and right!

I haven't upgraded anything but the flasher at this point... not sure on the connector for the trailer, I think it's a 7 pin.. I should be finding out which I need this week, then will commence wiring. I've already got the flat 4-pin wired by PO, independent of the Kaymar, I may be able to just use that.

As for the install, I did it myself. Had to have a friend help get it started, it didn't slip on as easy as the ARB in front.. but we got it, just had to get it lined up right. Just take your time with the latch, the trick I learned (after expending way too much elbow grease) was to drill for the threads one drill oversized.. since I've got only inch drills and it's a metric tap my closest drill was only close anyway.. at first I drilled it small to stay material safe, but it was a real bitch to tap, I drilled the rest with the next drill up, and they tapped much easier. Still TONS of thread engagement, that's not even an issue.. especially the ones that tap into the bumper and the frame.

Then I f...ed the thing up anyway, and must have had the latch reversed or something.. I ended up drilling & tapping about an inch from where I should have. :doh: there's this gap you're supposed to line up and measure, then mark your holes.. it's not that clear in the instructions and I ended up doing it wrong... of course once I figured it out and looked at the directions again it made sense, but by then it was too late. :whoops: I painted some extra bolts black & put them in the extra holes to plug them, you actually can't even tell but I see it every time I open the tire, remided of the day I took a drill to my brand new bumper.

The other part that was a pain was getting one of the nut plates to line up.. it kept twisting in there, this little coathanger handle is totally soft and just flopping around, but once the right combination of poking sticks was used I eventually got it. In all I thought the directions pretty much sucked, especially the wiring instructions (or lack thereof..) but you'll figure it out eventually, especially if you've taken a good look at one before, or better yet have another around to look at. hth..
 
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here is a couple of pics of my plug install. It's a Hoppy plug with both 4 and 7 pin connections with the wires cast in some sort of plastic for wheather resistance and the cover is also gasketed. The position would allow room for the latch of another swing arm if I installed one.
 
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so I needed the 7-pin after all, ended up with the same Hoppy plug. It turns out there are 4 holes on the left side of the receiver hitch, where another name plate could have been riveted onto the bumper. Pretty apparent that Kaymar is buying this section from someone else who makes receiver hitches.. can't say that I blame them..

Anyway it was real easy to drill 2 of them out a little bit, then tap with 8-32 threads. Then mark & drill 2 holes in the light harness mounting bracket, then install it sideways, facing the hitch. I haven't wired it up yet, but this is where it'll be until it gets bumped, then I'll figure something else out. But I think it'll work fine, if I wanted the best possible departure angle I wouldn't have got a Kaymar in the first place. HTH..
kaymar_holes.jpg
kaymar_trailer_light1.jpg
kaymar_trailer_light2.jpg
 
Interesting placement. Not exactly the same Hoppy plug. The one in Rick's pic and the one I use have both the 7-pin and 4-pin plug. Configuration of yours looks very similar, right down to the Hoppy mounting bracket.

I can see where it 'could' get clipped on that outer edge if your departure angle was just right.

Still waiting for my bumper to get off the damn boat!

Ready to spend my $$ on a gas miser instead of the cruiser!
 
My favorite local parts store does not carry Stant/Tridon, but have an equivalent to the EP36 made by Buss. Has anyone used the Buss flasher or any reason I shoud not use it?

"One heavy-duty flasher that works well is the Stant/Tridon EP36, available through Kragen (out here in the west). No doubt there are many others, but experience has shown that the CarQuest / Grote flasher source books list an incorrect part that blows fuses because the pin-outs are incorrect for Toyota trucks."
 

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