Kaymar 76 Series Workmate fitment for 77 Series (1 Viewer)

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Since my initial purchase of the truck, I knew I would need a bumper for the truck. The truck had the factory bumper and trim panels removed. My original goal was to replace the missing components. After sourcing all the needed parts from a LJ78, I did just that, and was very happy with fit and finish. Information on that process is captured in my build, starting on post #130.

After completing trips with my family, as well as using the truck for daily driving and work around the house, I identified three significant issues with the factory bumper.

1) The hitch receiver. The receiver can be a pain when loading/unloading the truck. I have no idea what it is rated to. I have zero complaints with its performance and have loaded it with Toyota’s recommended max for tongue weight and trailer load. At the time it was my best solution for a rear recovery point; when used with a 2” clevis shank. The idea that the receiver tube would likely be the failure point was scary albeit theoretical.

2) The factory bumper is not very robust. The OEM configuration of the rear bumper assembly is basically two steel c-channels dressed with aluminum and plastic. This is fine Most of the time. I did drag the bumper when on trails causing aesthetic damage.

3) I need more storage space. 2 adults, 2 kids, and a dog doesn’t leave much room for things-and-stuff.
My needs and wants changed over the course of two years while considering various offerings for the 70 series. Originally, I wanted a simple OEM-looking bar. I wanted a high-clearance receiver, rated recovery points, and total protection for the rear. At the time, I did not want swingouts for several reasons, the biggest being convenience. However, trips with my family really cemented how small the 77 is. A storage swing would help with this.

It’s nearly impossible to go wrong with any kit from a reputable builder/fabricator so long as the kit is used for its intended purpose. For me, balancing everything I needed and wanted from a rear bumper was the hardest part. I decided on the Kaymar bar PN: Kit76W-R-JCD. Note: “76W” in the PN. This specific bar is made for the 2007+ J76 Workmate. After long and frequent discussions with Ward Harris, doing research on frame differences between the J77 and J76, I decided to pull the trigger.

kaymar.jpg


Why the Kaymar 76 bar?

It’s the only rear bar I could find which meet all my needs and wants. Feature-rich with exceptional integration and practicality. High-mounted receiver with rated tow bar, hi-lift points, rated recovery points, included auxiliary indicator lights, etcetera.

My personal thoughts and considerations: It’s the best bar you can get for the 77 currently.
It’s the only production bar I know of that offers complete protection for the rear quarters. I wouldn’t use the wings as a jack-point. BUT if I needed to, I could. Regardless, the bar has integral hi-lift points for safer jacking of the truck of needed.

The orientation of the jerry can bracket it worth heavy consideration. After fitting my ARB front bar, the overall length on my truck increased. Kaymar’s jerry can bracket lays flat against the back, reducing overall length of the truck. This allows my truck to still fit in my garage comfortably. Something others’ may consider given the number of ARB and “front porch” bumpers.

As mentioned earlier, I don’t like swings. Unfortunately for me they are a necessary evil. I think Kaymar did an incredible job on the swings, Much better than the swing on my 100 Series. In my opinion it’s the best constructed, most practical set up currently available.

Initial Impressions:

The bumper arrived packed by Kaymar and placed in a cardboard pallet (about 7x3x3ft). The individual pieces were wrapped in foam, small parts and hardware were wrapped and placed in a smaller box inside the pallet box. Zero damage was noted during unpacking. Worth noting, I’m a crunchy tree hugger, every packing piece was recyclable. I appreciated that. One complaint; Kaymar did not include hardcopy fitting instructions (FI). However, Ward probably knew this from experience as he sent me the link to the .pdf file during the order process.
I started removal of the LJ78 bumper and trim. I was pleasantly surprised the work I did installing it paid off as corrosion was not an issue. I laid main sections of bumper out to get an idea of what I was working with. More importantly, I need to gauge fitment and determine if this would be do-able with what I had on hand in my garage.

Fit was off by exactly 1mm. I am guessing that this was the result of Toyota and Kaymar manufacturing tolerance compounded by my previous work on the frame (paint build-up). With the bumper in rough position; I was able to determine all 10 primary bolt points should be plumb and square. Additionally, I determined I should not need to cut out the rear tool tub. This was the biggest question I needed answered as it’s the only difference between the J77 and J76 I could find on paper.

test fit back.jpg


test fit side.jpg


right side frame clearance.jpg


Note: This was taken with the left-side bumper bracket resting about 1 cm forward into the respective frame mounting surface.

Installation Phase 1:

I started by stripping down the rear of the truck. I removed all the bumper components, door components, and the tail lights. I prepped for the install and corrosion prevention/correction behind the tail lights, and pinch welds in the back. I also removed paint build up and applied por15 as appropriate on the frame. After doing this, the 1mm difference was corrected and the bumper slide in place with bumping from my palm.

frame hone.jpg
 
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I organized all my hardware and separated by respective steps. I would recommend doing the same and many bolts appear to be the same but have different thread pitches. This also helped familiarize myself with the installation. The one negative thing I will say is the fitting instructions are not great. They are obviously written by someone who knows the installation well and lack specificity and photos.

(Photo: part org 2) 1

First Step is the only deviation to Kaymar’s FI. The supply two bolts to replace tank-brace bolts on the J76. These bolts are not used for J77 fitment.

The mudguard supports bolt up without deviation from the FI.

(photo: Left Flap Supt) 2

(photo: Right Flap Supt) 3

(photo: rear quarter gap) 4

I order J76 Workmate mudguards (Toyota PN: Left - 76608-60120. Right - 76607-60120) to correct the gap in the wing and leading edge of the rear quarter. If you decide to use these guards, the small tab at the top will need to be cut off.

(photo: tab to be cut) 5

part org 2.jpg


Right flap supt.jpg


left flap supt.jpg


tab to be cut off.jpg
 
Next I placed the wire nuts. This was a potential conflict between the 77 and 76. In Kaymar’s FI, the photo does not depict a tube inside the frame. That tube is almost directly centered over the wire nut. I proceeded forward with four contingencies: 1) Drill the hole per the instructions and penetrate the tube. 2) Cut the bolt down to fit the stack height of the bumper/frame/nut. 3) Drill and tap to place the bolt. 4) Leave this bolts unused. In the end, I decided to drill and tap in the end.

wire nut with tube.JPG


Kaymar instr 76 frame wout tube.jpg
 
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Next i installed the wing support brackets. The right side has zero interference issues.

Right wing support outboard.JPG


ringht wing support inboard.JPG


The left side has potential interference with the exhaust if your exhaust isn’t OEM. That said, OEM exhaust does not interfere with installation.

left wing support outboard.JPG


left wing support inboard (2).JPG
 
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Now it was time to do initial fitting, and confirm everything. The bumper fits perfect at all primary/load bearing points. Follow Kaymar’s FI for installation, start with 6 outboard bolts, followed by 4 receiver bolts and finally the two underside bolts.

initial fitment.jpg


Fitment was perfect, in my case zero shims were used to match the bumper lines to the body lines. Kaymar does provide a handful of shims if needed. Lining the wings up is challenging with one person to ensure the wings/winglets line up to the body. I found the below configuration to work best. Kaymar doesn’t prescribe a specific way.

wing support.jpg
 
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Electrical:
Kaymar supplies 4-way aux indicators. They are well built LED pods which are 9-30V rated. Additionally, a J76 harness, two 12v load resistors, and a handful of connectors are supplied but not needed. I found that I did not need to use the load resistors for my application, but it’s worth noting I do have DEPO/OddIron ( LED indicators installed in-place of factory tails. I tapped the tail light harness to create my own piggy-back and routed it through the aft clip-hole for the bumper cladding. I used 5-pin waterproof connectors to connect the aux lights.

The 5 wires are:
wire id.jpg



tail harness.jpg


piggyback routing.jpg



The aux lights function as intended in my set-up. There is no hyperflash, reverse lights are bright, and clear delineation between the running light and brake lights. That said, I don’t have LEDs for the factory indicators. If you are considering LED blinkers load resistors or LED-compliant indicator relay will be needed to prevent hyperflash. When I do upgrade to OddIron Off Road LED bulbs (Rob sent me some and they’re still on the shelf because my DEPO tails have clear lenses) I’ll update my findings as needed.
I decided to modify the factory tag light harness. In my case, I cut off the connector, extended the wiring out the swing and used a 2-pin waterproof connector. Not rocket surgery. The supplied tag light is 9-30V rated LED so no issues.
 
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My build thread will detail the finishing touches/customization for the bumper.
Recommended/required tools you may not have:
  • Ratcheting 19mm straight wrench to install the 4 receiver bolts in place
  • M12 metal drill bit
Notes for other’s considering this.
You will need to get the 6-lug wheel plate. This bar is intended for the 07+ J76 and ships with a 5-lug plate if wheel carrier is optioned. The plates are not cross compatible but easy to switch out.

Kaymar has different PN’s based on trim. The Workmate doesn’t have over-fenders, the GXL does have over-fenders. Based on this, and my experience fitting the 76W bar, it’s easy to infer, if you have, or would like to add over-fenders to your pre-2007 J77, ensure the correct model is purchased for a clean fitment.

My previous bumper gas 100% sourced from an LJ78. All mounting points for that bumper worked on my 77. It’s reasonable to suspect that this bar would fit the light duty wagon. Perhaps @GTSSportCoupe @beno or another expert can provide input on this.



@wardharris has been a huge help with this. I messaged/called him more than necessary for this; probably to the point of being annoying. I think it’s worth noting Long Range America has adjusted the ordering and shipping process to pass on some savings to customers. Additionally, they offer bundle packages for long range tanks. I encourage anyone interested to contact Ward for current information. Email: ward@longrangeamerica.com

side complete.jpg


rear complete.jpg
 
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This thread is intended for the bar install specific to the 77. However, when installing the swings, Kaymar’s FI advises to angle the swing to fit the gas struts. I found it easier to use a ratchet strap to compress the struts. This allowed me to seat the seal and bearings without fear of damage.

92BAE48B-7600-4AFA-981C-CB6132EBEBB5.jpeg




The completed basic install:

41EFD96F-C3CE-46AD-A0EB-B83FE5690958.jpeg
 
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Kaymar Fitting instructions (includes the bar fitting, all avalible accessories, and torque specs).

 
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I just discovered the short door will contact the swingif hyper extended. The long door should not. I used a rubber button to prevent paint chips.

DFF8940F-5A60-4514-ADDE-7357D6EB4108.jpeg
 
It will not fit a 75. Kaymar makes a bar for the 75 and that is the one I used on my 74. The wings are much shorter and do not have forward brackets. Also the brackets that go forward and bolt to the bottom of the frame are longer. Those have to be cut off to put it on a 70, 71 ,73, 74.
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2) The factory bumper is not very robust. The OEM configuration of the rear bumper assembly is basically two steel c-channels dressed with aluminum and plastic. This is fine Most of the time. I did drag the bumper when on trails causing aesthetic damage.

I just redid my entire rear bumper using OEM parts and was not impressed with the "c-channels dressed with aluminum and plastic" nature of it. It looks sharp now but it sure is a lot of parts.

Love how this came out for you. Very sharp looking.

Bookmarking this as another option for eventual replacement. I really want a replacement without swingouts though...
 
It will not fit a 75. Kaymar makes a bar for the 75 and that is the one I used on my 74. The wings are much shorter and do not have forward brackets. Also the brackets that go forward and bolt to the bottom of the frame are longer. Those have to be cut off to put it on a 70, 71 ,73, 74.View attachment 1929177

Thank you Dan I will update the post accordingly.
 
I just redid my entire rear bumper using OEM parts and was not impressed with the "c-channels dressed with aluminum and plastic" nature of it. It looks sharp now but it sure is a lot of parts.

Love how this came out for you. Very sharp looking.

Bookmarking this as another option for eventual replacement. I really want a replacement without swingouts though...

I agree with your views on the factory bumper. It was very difficult to line up too. I eventually said forget it it’s a 70 bumper not a concourse car.

Talk to Ward, you can get the bar without swings.
 
It could be worse......
You could have this bumper which is a bumper in name only. The mystery of where recycled beer cans end up has been answered.
image.jpeg
 
Here’s my take on suspension now that I have done enough work to have an opinion. I have an OME medium kit fin the back with nitrocharger sport shocks. Normal travel load is perfectly fine. Heavy loading is fine too if not done all the time. However, the nitrocharger sport shocks are not fitting my needs. I hauled 30 bags of dirt and wet lumber about 10 miles on country blacktop followed by 17 miles of gravel. The shocks did not like it. And I could tell after 20 minutes. Gas tank was full and the carrier was dry. I will be upgrading the shocks in due time, but I think a medium kit from OME is just right for this bar out back for how my truck is set up now.

Squat after filling the tank

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The load

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The bulk of the road home

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Followed along on this and it looks like a nice bumper. I had initially contacted Kaymar about a bumper for my 75 but at the time there didn't seem to be much interest in shipping to the U.S.

I will have a rear bumper installed within the next day or so that was purchased from Cruiser Outfitters. I will post on my thread the impression. It does not have coverage of the rear rocker so I'll likely have to figure that out.

Thanks for posting this....looks very nice and Kaymar has a good rep.
 

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