Just washed my Engine, How Screwed Am I ?

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Woke up from my Saturday nap and decided to do my 4th annual engine washing

Douse everything with Simple Green, and rinse with the hose (no pressure washer)

Just got things rinsed off when a neighbor came up the driveway saying my dog was running amok in the neighborhood. Started my rig to go get the dog, and could hear an “electrical” clicking under the hood. At first I thought I had dislodged a hose or wire into the fan. But I could also hear it in the radio, it was definitely the electrical system.

Drove about a block, threw the dog in the car, got home and marched him into the house. Now the car will not start.

Letting it air dry like I usually do, but I am thinking I am screwed. Any ideas what I fried ?
 
it sounds like you have some water leakage into the ignition system.. the primary suspect would probably be the distributor being wet inside and/or the ignition wires. the reason being, they are very sensitive to water due to the high voltage it transmits.

i would try opening the distributor cap and air drying it first. let us know if that works out.
 
I wash mine frequently.
Never had a problem
Cover up the distrib with a plastic bag usually, but not always.
I do make a point of blasting compressed air afterwards to dry everything -especially eletrical- off right away though. Don't know if needed, but makes me feel better... :)
 
Let it dry out and try again in a few hours.
 
took another nap (Florida vs LSU) . . . . and it's fixed !!

Boy, hard day
 
The air flow meter on the intake tube is a common culprit here. Don't wash your engine is the cure.

DougM
 
Also, when you take the cap off, spray some WD40 in there. This will keep water out in the future. As I understand it, WD=Water Displacement.
 
Also, when you take the cap off, spray some WD40 in there. This will keep water out in the future. As I understand it, WD=Water Displacement.

That is the best advice to help the ole dizzy in working order when exposed to water. My 62 had a sweet rubber boot that helped keep water out.
 
The distributor cap is the place I have seen the 1FZ suffer from water after a few days playing in the rivers. Other than that, never seen a problem.

Steve, ya need to do a better job of holding up our image...

Don't admit you did this washing the engine bay in your driveway...

"While I was rescuing the granny in the runaway whitewater raft after the guide fell out, I had the rig underwater a little longer than usual because the brown bears would not let go of the bumper and even after the headliner dried out it was balky starting..."

Now that would be a much better Alaskan Story.. ;)


Mark...
 
The distributor cap is the place I have seen the 1FZ suffer from water after a few days playing in the rivers. Other than that, never seen a problem.

Steve, ya need to do a better job of holding up our image...

Don't admit you did this washing the engine bay in your driveway...

"While I was rescuing the granny in the runaway whitewater raft after the guide fell out, I had the rig underwater a little longer than usual because the brown bears would not let go of the bumper and even after the headliner dried out it was balky starting..."

Now that would be a much better Alaskan Story.. ;)


Mark...

rofl.gif
 
Mine is the similar. If I go through a large puddle and splash everthing under the hood, mine will spit and sputter for a few minutes then she acts right.
 
First of all, as has been mentioned, cover the dist. cap with a baggie. Then, ON A COOL ENGINE spray a liberal amount of Castoroil Super Clean all over the greasy grimy parts. Let it soak for a good 20 minutes. Rinse off with a powerful blast from the water hose (pressure washer not necessary). This will keep your engine cooler, and make it more of a pleasure to work on in the future. Also helps you locate leaks.
To dry it off a bit, use your leaf blower, or shop vac backwards, NEVER USE COMPRESSED AIR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You can force water down into nooks and crannies that it is better left out of. Remove the baggie from the cap, and run the engine to finish drying. Take a lap or two around the block and move on to step 6. :beer:
 
"Wash engine"? Is that some form of foreign language?:eek: That must be closeley related to the language that I heard the other day... "Buff out scratches" and "Vacuum Carpet". Completely greek to me.
 
"Wash engine"? Is that some form of foreign language?:eek: That must be closeley related to the language that I heard the other day... "Buff out scratches" and "Vacuum Carpet". Completely greek to me.

Well, I mostly do it so that I can partake in step 6!! :beer:
Seriously, it will help the engine to run cooler, which in turn will help it to run longer with less maintenance!! One of the benifits of using cast iron in an engine block is it's ability to transfer heat, this ability is lessened with a good coat of oily grimy trail dirt.
 
Im an avaition structural mechanic in the Navy and the every test that has ever been done in regards to simple green has shown that it induces corrosion on aluminum. Simple Green is not PH balanced and promotes corrosion. I just wanted to throw that out there as in the future you would be better off with a purpose designed engine degreaser.
 
Im an avaition structural mechanic in the Navy and the every test that has ever been done in regards to simple green has shown that it induces corrosion on aluminum. Simple Green is not PH balanced and promotes corrosion. I just wanted to throw that out there as in the future you would be better off with a purpose designed engine degreaser.

wow, did not know that!
 
Im an avaition structural mechanic in the Navy and the every test that has ever been done in regards to simple green has shown that it induces corrosion on aluminum. Simple Green is not PH balanced and promotes corrosion. I just wanted to throw that out there as in the future you would be better off with a purpose designed engine degreaser.

That explains everything!!!:bang:
 
I was using it to clean my intercooler on my STI and then I went through an Aircarft Corrosion Control and Paint and Final Finish course. The instructor then elaborated on why the Navy does not allow that product to be used. When he said that my eyes were wide open as I used it frequently like I stated above. No issues as of yet. I have plenty sources for replacements though!

Just ensure that you have rinsed all of the cleaner off!:)
 
I have seen comments in the past about simple green & corrosion. It seems to me there is a certain amount of protection to metal parts FROM CORROSION by having a coating of oil & grease. (after all that is the reason we pour the stuff inside the engine). Therefore any product, and more notably the products that remove the most oil & grease, will by nature increase the risk of corrosion.

However I am not sure why corrosion would be a big concern on engine components (I have spent my share of time rebuilding FJ40’s & FJ60’s, and I understand the a concern about corrosion on body parts).

Nor I am sure why there are extra concerns with Simple Green.
 

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