Just picked up my first 24V truck what do i need to know ?

[Tim-HJ61]

how would that make a big difference?

I am converting my 1983 HJ60 2H 24v.
I can't see any big difference on the 12H-T and 2H fueling system when thinking about WVO. One big difference are pneumatic governor on the 2H and mechanical on the 12H-T, but that have nothing to say on the WVO matter.

Maybe you are thinking of IDI on the 2H vs. DI on the 12H-T ?

Just curious as I am doing the 2 tank conversion as well.

Yes Lasse, it is ALL about DI/IDI, hence my cautionary question.
You can get away with slack purging of the injectors on an IDI.
Poor purging, or running cold oil in any DI will cause serious problems.
I'm holding a 1HDT piston, direct injection, that was part of an engine destroyed by poor WVO management. And the engine was 15,000km old after a rebuild. Gummed up rings, worn bore. Shutdown seconds away from a runaway.

Tim

 

[jetswim]

Get a good 24v charger/battery maintainer.
I have one of these from CdnTire
http://www.gnbsystems.com/noco-genius-battery-chargers-3600mA.php

If the 24/12 converter is connected to the batteries so the memory in the CD player/radio stays active, the batteries can drain in a week or so.

How would the batteries be completely drained? I thought stereo memory only drew milliamps to maintain presets? Don't 12v vehicles have the memory hard wired so it draws milliamps too without draining the one battery?

 

[John Galt]

How would the batteries be completely drained? ...

They wouldn't be completely drained, just enough so the starter wouldn't crank.

 

[Bandit_guy]

The converter uses power to step down 24 to 12 volts that's your biggest draw not the radio. If you use the truck as a daily driver you won't have any issues because you will recharge the system every day by driving. If you leave it parked for a month you may not have enough power to get it started. The master switch is a good idea if you don't drive it often you just have to adjust the clock and and presets when you turn of the switch. I have a solar converter battery equalizer/ Converter and I can go at least three weeks without running the truck and it will start in warm weather, in the cold about 10 days. I give the equalizer the credit for my batteries having lasted so long. Best 130$ I've spent in a long time.

 

[John Galt]

On my truck the 24/12 convertor draws much more when the CD player is on with the time displayed than it does when the CD player is completely off except for the miniscule draw to keep the memory alive. The difference is at least 2x the time to draw the batteries down.

 

[canucksafari]

I just bought 3 of these voltage reducers and installed one of them in my wife's rig. You can't beat the price. Each rig will have two voltage reducers (front and back) which will replace the older tech 20 amp convererts . A friend has these in all 3 of his Safaris. In 4 years he has not had any battery drain-down issues. I figured for this price, even If they only last 5 years, it is worth it. When I instal the ones in the rear, they will be relay controlled through a toggle switch.

 

[kim]

What does a guy need to know about jump starting a 24V rig. Or about jumping a 12v rig from a 24v rig.

This is doable.

24v truck jumping a 12v truck, on the 24v truck, connect positive cable to the low side positive terminal (which is 12v), and the negative cable to ground on the same battery (0v ground). Normal connections on the 12v vehicle, pos to pos, neg to neg. DO NOT try this same connection on the high side battery on the 24v truck as positive is 24v and neg is 12v!

12v truck jumping a 24v truck, on the 12 volt truck, connect positive cable to the positive terminal and negative cable to the negative terminal. On the 24 volt truck, connect the positive cable to the positive terminal on the low side battery (12v) and the negative cable to negative terminal (0v ground). DO NOT try this same connection on the high side battery on the 24v truck as positive is 24v and neg is 12v! To boost the high side battery on a 24v truck, use a jumper pack and connect pos to pos and neg to neg. There is no 'ground' with a jumper pack.

I recommend using a volt meter and becoming very familiar with the voltages present at each terminal in your system.

 

[Lasse]

This is doable.
DO NOT try this same connection on the high side battery on the 24v truck as positive is 24v and neg is 12v!

To boost the high side battery on a 24v truck, use a jumper pack and connect pos to pos and neg to neg. There is no 'ground' with a jumper pack.

Wrong ...
The positive are 12v and the negative are 0v, so you can jump to or from your "high side" battery.
In relation to the 24v truck chassis you are right and you will see 24v in positive and +12v on the battery negative, this is the reason you cant jump/boost both your batteries in the 24v circuit from one 12v source, you will need 12v sources that are electrical isolated from each other.

If you take your voltmeter/multimeter and measure between positive and negative on your "high side" battery you will see something around 13v according to how well the battery are charged.

But I will tell you this, and this count for both giving a jump and receiving a jump: NEVER connect your jumper cables to "high side" battery positive and chassis ground! unless both vehicles is 24v, than that is the only correct way to connect the jumper cables ...

Conclusion: doesn't matter which battery you use as long as you correctly connect up your cables. If you for some reason do this often I would have jumped the batteries in turns, this will wear them slower, but by any means drastically faster than running them in straight 24v load mode ...

 

[kim]

Wrong ...
The positive are 12v and the negative are 0v, so you can jump to or from your "high side" battery.
In relation to the 24v truck chassis you are right and you will see 24v in positive and +12v on the battery negative, this is the reason you cant jump/boost both your batteries in the 24v circuit from one 12v source, you will need 12v sources that are electrical isolated from each other.

If you take your voltmeter/multimeter and measure between positive and negative on your "high side" battery you will see something around 13v according to how well the battery are charged.

But I will tell you this, and this count for both giving a jump and receiving a jump: NEVER connect your jumper cables to "high side" battery positive and chassis ground! unless both vehicles is 24v, than that is the only correct way to connect the jumper cables ...

Conclusion: doesn't matter which battery you use as long as you correctly connect up your cables. If you for some reason do this often I would have jumped the batteries in turns, this will wear them slower, but by any means drastically faster than running them in straight 24v load mode ...

I've read your post twice and I think we are in agreement so I don't know what you are saying is wrong. I assume you are referring to the statement that there is no 'ground' in a jumper pack. What I mean by this is that the ground is isolated from the vehicle so you can safely connect the jumper pack to the high side battery in parallel.

 

[Lasse]

What I say is wrong is that you say you can't use the high side battery (24v battery), but you can.

2 different vehicles doesn't share ground so you can safely connect 12v car neg to 24v cars 12v (low side positive terminal and high side negative terminal) as long as 12v cars positive terminal are connected to 24v cars high side battery positive terminal, the same terminal you measure 24v.

If you think, thats what I said, then I misunderstud your post. It kind of look like you are saying that you can only jump with the low side battery, the one connected to 24v car chassis/ground ...

 

[Lasse]

Made up these circuit diagrams as trying to explain circuit diagrams always lead to misunderstanding and confusion
Extra battery in circuit diagram can be just that or a booster, yet another car or any other 12v dc source that are isolated from the others ....

Enjoy

 

[kim]

I think you have mixed up your 12v car diagram unless it is a funky British postive ground deal.

 

[Lasse]

You caught me, didn't see that until now ...

 

[markthemenace]

Have fun with 24v, I have an outboard converter for trailer light and would not buy that again as it is to expensive to forget/get stolen.
Maybe I will use some extra cable so the converter can stay in the vehicle.

I have a switch to switch off the radio 12V inverter because it will drain the battery for sure.

Are you sure you can get enough and a steady supply of vwo (oil or fat?)
Above freezing my HJ60 can take up to 83% salad oil. (mix with 100 ml 2-stroke or new engine oil)
So maybe you can first drive a few thousend km without extra tank and collect more info from other hj60 vwo dual tank setups and learn from these owners?

In Europe the oil supply and waste removing will be closely monitored in the future.
At this moment I cannot get the oil even if they want to give it to me because I can not deliver an official document that I am allowed to collect waste oil.
I have found some shops have more waste oil than they should have for the production/tax they pay, so there is some potential...

Because I store the oil in my backyard that is a crime, driving it is a crime (no tax) so the whole thing is more about becoming an anarchist (αν αρχος) and hating the establishment
Old diesels can drive on wvo so the Dutch government bans old dielsels
Shell and major stake holder queen beatrix must love this "democratic" outcome
http://www.nytimes.com/2012/11/25/automobiles/old-car-owners-bristle-at-proposed-ban.html?_r=0


Lasse this online shop in Germany sells a lot of vwo stuff:
http://www.monopoel.de/catalog/filtration-c-45.html

lol, anarchist have other thingt to do than thinking about transportation
http://www.i-f-a.org/index.php/component/search/?searchword=wvo&searchphrase=all&Itemid=146

Wow...amazing how govt works eh! Hope tat never happens here in Canada!

Now regarding the trailer electronics, there's a very nice diagramme here on Mud on how to make up your own trailer logic circuit. Search for "Trailer Logic Circuit". I followed this diagramme and built one myself. I am quite mechanically challenged, so if I can do it...

Its simple, cheap and it has not failed me yet! I use my trailer a LOT to collect wood and other stuff, and its really important to me to have an excellent reliable system.

I am only now getting into the WVO collection thing, and again the trailer is going to be a great help, so its important to have a system that works well.

That $19 solid state converter is a pretty neat unit! I feel like getting one just as a spare, in case my existing unit fails on me.

 

[markthemenace]

Lasse, those diagramme are great! So which one is wrong? Perhaps you could correct it and post it up again please? This is something electrically-challenged guys like me need! I would print it out and put it in the glove compartment for sure!! Thanks!

 

[Lasse]

All of them are wrong in the way kim pointed out, but it just a minor text/description fault.

If you look closely you can see I have written that the positive terminal on the 12v car goes to chassis ground and the negative terminal on the battery goes to the car electronics. This little mistake are repeated in all the diagrams as I was to lazy to make the basic diagram from scratch for each jumping method. The connection itself are correct in all of them and thats what matter. To late here now to redo the diagrams. Maybe I do them over tomorrow or the day after.

 

[Helocrazed]

I just bought 3 of these voltage reducers and installed one of them in my wife's rig. You can't beat the price. Each rig will have two voltage reducers (front and back) which will replace the older tech 20 amp convererts . A friend has these in all 3 of his Safaris. In 4 years he has not had any battery drain-down issues. I figured for this price, even If they only last 5 years, it is worth it. When I instal the ones in the rear, they will be relay controlled through a toggle switch.

Do either of them run in series with your lighter? My rig is a 24v system and the PO installed a converter that has since stopped working except for the for the aftermarket radio. What brand and specs? Thank you!

 

[canucksafari]

Pretty sure they are 20 amp continuous. Don't see them for sale anymore. Can't remember the brand. Will have a look tomorrow. It's dark and raining hard right now

 

[rdambros]

Sorry, to revisit this thread so late, but is has the diagram been corrected? Is it method 3 that is incorrect? so that the negative should be to the low side negative and the positive to the high side battery? Thanks

 

[Freewheel]

All the diagrams still have a print layout error. The 12 volt battery image shows that negative (-) goes to "vehicle electronics" and positive (+) goes to "car chassis". This should be reversed. 12v negative pole should go to "car chassis" and 12v positive pole goes to "vehicle electronics"

If you ignore this error, the connections are correct if you match the (+) and (-) battery terminals.

It's also super confusing that the 12 volt battery terminals are upside down next to the 24 volt pair, which is why the circuit lines all cross each other.

All in all, not a very clear or correct diagram, but if you can get past the confusing bits, it could still be useful- And all the 5 different methods have correct circuit paths, none of them are wrong ways to jump the vehicle.