Just picked up a 1983 60 from family member. Who’s a 2F guru?

Joined
Sep 4, 2018
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5
Location
Tigard Oregon
Dang thing won’t start. Got it from brother in law. Has fuel pressure, replaced distributor (HEI style) has a 38mm Weber carb on it as well. Distributor might be 180 off. Don’t want to break anything but hoping to get it breathing before I start dumping more money into this motor. Any help is appreciated. I’m in tigard.
 

CreeperSleeper

Cascade Cruisers
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May 16, 2005
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I don't think any of us would claim to be a guru at anything, but I can give you some basic engine pointers. If it were me, I would start by checking the things an engine needs to run:
  • Compression: I'm going to assume this is good as long as you don't have a piston sticking out of the block.
  • Fuel: After you try and start it, pull a spark plug and see if it smells like fuel. This would also be a good time to "read" your spark plugs. Google will give you a better explanation on how to do that.
  • Spark: Hold the threads of the spark plug to ground and see if it sparks when you crank the engine over.
  • Timing: Easiest way I know to check distributor timing is to put the engine at top dead center and pull the distributor cap. The rotor should be pointed at the plug wire that goes to cylinder number one.
Hope that helps!
 
Joined
Sep 4, 2018
Messages
5
Location
Tigard Oregon
I don't think any of us would claim to be a guru at anything, but I can give you some basic engine pointers. If it were me, I would start by checking the things an engine needs to run:
  • Compression: I'm going to assume this is good as long as you don't have a piston sticking out of the block.
  • Fuel: After you try and start it, pull a spark plug and see if it smells like fuel. This would also be a good time to "read" your spark plugs. Google will give you a better explanation on how to do that.
  • Spark: Hold the threads of the spark plug to ground and see if it sparks when you crank the engine over.
  • Timing: Easiest way I know to check distributor timing is to put the engine at top dead center and pull the distributor cap. The rotor should be pointed at the plug wire that goes to cylinder number one.
Hope that helps!
Thanks everyone for responses! I'm hoping to be at the meeting this month with my FJ40. wife is out of town on a cruise with her dad that week so I may have kids in tow. but, they love busters so that will keep them entertained.

1. compression 120,112,120,110,120,119 (pretty good for 275k miles). the 110 was not 85% at first gasp but, a little oil in it brought it up so must be ring wear. planning on using 20-50W oil after it's breathing.
2. 3PSI fuel pressure at the carb while cranking. has one of those regulators on it set to 4 so it doesn't flood the weber at full RPM. getting same PSI directly off the fuel pump as well but, haven't tried connecting direct to carb yet.
3. New distributor and connecting direct to battery lots of spark after fixed cracked batter terminal lead and metal brushing body to remove crude and oxidation. 0.055 gapped plugs (DUI HEI style distributor, new plugs, and live wires) I just installed
4. I was reading how to get to TDC but, haven't figured this part out yet to trouble shoot it. I was pretty sure I put the new one in the way the old one came out but, it wasn't running when I got it and my brother in law could have easily played with it and screwed it up.

I was able to get it to somewhat fire with starter fluid but, it was rough and ugly. made me think weber carb might be messed up. Brother in law had busted throttle cable and "repaired" it. he then broke the older distributor trouble shooting it. It looks like had the battery tied to the tach input which as I read can destroy these things (had no spark when connected direct to battery and cranking. I confirmed the distributor was turning while cranking). I have a new weber universal throttle cable enroute but, his fix looks like it should work temporarily. not sure if the throttle body linkage perhaps isn't correct and it isn't getting enough or any fuel. has an electronic choke option that is getting 12V and looks like it is working properly. I'm a hack mechanic (elec engineer by trade).

have new radiator, water pump, and a bunch of misc for it ready to go. going to redo the interior as well as the front seats are trashed and not original (they are grey and only connect at 3 points. the 4th one is dang close though as I can see part of the whole). paint will be a military sand rough texture. will have the RTT and set it up for some family camping, fishing, and hunting rig. eventually go the LS route after I hopefully get some fun out of this 2F for a while longer. I'm eager to get the other stuff started and it's all held up on getting this thing at least breathing before I dump too much $$$ into it. The hood is green and the grill is gone as it was in a wreck but, has a landcruiser hood and I have a grill waiting for it too to put on later.

The thing is actually painted tan over the top of the original brown clear coated paint. it looks like rust from a distance but, that is original paint as the tan is flaking off. could probably gently pressure wash most of it off. got it for $2k so I couldn't pass it up. AAA towed it home for free from Brownsville since the tags weren't expired. was my borther in law's daily driver to work for 6 months before the throttle cable broke and he spiraled doing his troubleshooting or whatever he was doing.
 

CreeperSleeper

Cascade Cruisers
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For TDC, I use the flywheel on a 2F. This thread describes it: 2f TDC I am willing to bet that timing is your issue based on what you have said.

As for the fuel I understand that you have PSI, but that doesn't mean that it is getting to the cylinders. Pulling a spark plug to smell for gas and to read them is a quick, easy thing to do.
 
Joined
Sep 4, 2018
Messages
5
Location
Tigard Oregon
For TDC, I use the flywheel on a 2F. This thread describes it: 2f TDC I am willing to bet that timing is your issue based on what you have said.

As for the fuel I understand that you have PSI, but that doesn't mean that it is getting to the cylinders. Pulling a spark plug to smell for gas and to read them is a quick, easy thing to do.

Good point. I'll checkout the 2F TDC. hopefully can spend some time tonight or tomorrow night with it.
 
Joined
Sep 4, 2018
Messages
5
Location
Tigard Oregon
Good point. I'll checkout the 2F TDC. hopefully can spend some time tonight or tomorrow night with it.
Good news. Pulled plugs out to check tdc. Rolled motor by lifting rear tire in 4th gear. I had rotor in correctly but noticed it was way too advanced. Adjusted appropriately and it fired right up. Purs like a kitten. Now I can proceed with the other stuff. Thanks for the help!!
 
Joined
Oct 22, 2011
Messages
99
Location
Portland OR
weber carbs are pretty simple compared to stock carbs, so opening it up and blasting out gunk and cleaning stuff isn't nearly as bad as stock. On a project that I just pick up and has the old gas in it, I usually drain it or at least put a bottle of the iso-heet water treatment with 5 gallons of good gas. Check filter to make sure it still is filtering and if there is rust particles coming down the line. If the spark plug wires look old or "high performance" check each one by removing each boot while its idling. you should hear it get slightly rougher or slower idle when 1 of the 6 isn't hooked up, just go down the line.
 
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