Just got my first solar panel (1 Viewer)

[rubicondon53]

and the wiring is straight forward and simple. + to + - to - I like to keep things simple, and ran a dedicated, #8 line back to the inverter, along the way, up on the wall above the left kick panel, is a 4 panel terminal with fuses for subwoofer and fridge freezer lines. The 800 watt inverters negative line is a #6 grounded to the body of the vehicle less than 6"s from said inverter... We use the inverter to charge camera batteries, laptop, pad and phones, thats it, so #8 is plenty big for the tasks we ask of it. My question, now that I've explained my simpleton logic, Is there a reason that I cannot hook up my solar panel per instructions to the charge controller, mount the charge controller next to the inverter, then tie the charge controller to the rear of the converter? It seems to me this would work, as the # 8 is plenty big enough, and the battery, 55ah AGM, is grounded to the vehicle. If not, I gotta pull a lot of wires... and that's just not keeping it simple... thanks for all replies, We are really looking forward to getting off grid again, it's been since April and we are ready to roll...

 

[Cruiserdrew]

It will work ok, but not optimal.

The reason is that you want to keep the wiring short from your charge controller to the battery to lessen voltage drops and speed charging. With that said, it will work.

Most charge controllers also are temperature compensated-and so ideally should be in the same compartment as the battery.

55 AmpHours is a pretty small battery. The best reason to have a solar panel is to run your fridge, and to do that, you'll want more than 55 AmpHours of stored power.

 

[rubicondon53]

True about the 55 hr battery, I do have a dual battery set up and will eventually get a better pair, and I do want optimal results. That's a lot of line going from the panels to the rear of the vehicle then back up thru the vehicle to the battery. or when at basecamp, open the hood, apply hook up the lines from the panel to the charge controller each time... Just how much less than optimal is my proposal?

 

[Cruiserdrew]

or when at basecamp, open the hood, apply hook up the lines from the panel to the charge controller each time... Just how much less than optimal is my proposal?

I hook up when we get to camp and my whole system can move truck to truck. It takes just a minute or so.

I've set mine up in the past so the controller fed the fuse panel inside the truck, and honestly, it still worked well, and would be hard to quantify the difference in short term use. Longer term, I'd worry more about the lack of temperature compensation, though some controllers allow you to do that remotely.

 

[spressomon]

Agree with Cruiserdrew...55ah in AGM/lead acid won't go very far. Of course its all about the draw application anyway.

FYI/FWIW initially more expensive, lithium iron phosphate batteries have significant advantages over AGM, lead acid, etc. One big one: 1/2 or less the weight and can be discharged 50-75+% repeatedly which allows, all things being equal, for you to spec a lower Ah battery...lighter, smaller and still get significantly higher portable DC power. And voltage stays near straight line as current is drawn and can be fast charged without compromise.

A nice option to have today anyway.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

I see consumer grade LiPO car batteries as infant technology and would let that whole thing mature another 5 years before spending $1000 on a car battery.

Lead Acid batteries are mature technology, work fine, and can power your whole camping set up for $80. (Costco grp 27 RV/Marine)

If you have more room, like a trailer, then 2 6 volt golf cart batteries in series would be the bomb. 200+ amp hours for a small investment.

 

[e9999]

the OPost reads like you want to connect the charge controller to the inverter, without the battery in between. Is that what you're asking?

 

[rubicondon53]

the OPost reads like you want to connect the charge controller to the inverter, without the battery in between. Is that what you're asking?

I'm asking if the controller can be tied into the lines that feed the inverter from the battery, thereby charging up the vehicle battery and/oe using the inverter at the same time.. so if diagramed the solar panel would be in between the battery and inverter.. I'm not an electrical engineer, but if all three are in line what difference could there be between running long panel lines to the battery to the same battery terminal that the inverter is on? If diagramed one could argue that the panel is still in between the two as the positive terminal on the battery is nothing more than a "bus" line that feeds everything, including receiving a charge from the alternator. In theory, the alternator line could be attached to the post on the inverter and the battery would still charge. Of course the further away each devise is from the other device current/amps will be lost. I've diagramed all this and If I'm wrong please step up to the plate and get me informed. OK? Thanks all keep it rollling