Just a few notes on the 4.7 engine... I'm impressed (2 Viewers)

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Just a bit of background, I built (rebuilt) my first engines @12 mac91b1 2 stroke racing kart engines, went on and built more 400 chevy small block based circle track engine than I can count, have 100s of hours on a flow bench and 100s more machining rods polishing cranks and balancing assemblies,

but these little 4.7 toyotas are sweet...
a few notes:
every bolt that requires a 10mm socket will unscrew with 8 revolutions (7+ actually) each 12mm 9 full turns, 14mm 12 turns will get everyone that I counted, doesn't matter where on the engine these bolts are these numbers seem to work, (20 turns on the spark plugs)

I just pulled my latest 305,000 mile engine apart... I have no idea the type of care this engine received or the lubricants or time frame in which they were changed... BUT there is next to no end play in the crank, I've never built one of these engines and I don't know the specs or what type thrust control they have on the cranks but the factory machine work is nice, the rods are a I beam design that are surface finished to a very high level for a stock production engine, I have not examined any journals (main or rod) but I see all but zero signs of wear... this little 287ci engine has the bottom end of what I would expect to see in a 400ci engine... the main caps are 2 bolt but well machined, the block is cast iron but shows all but zero flash, the front and rear main seals appear to be full circle and held in a well machined alum housing/end plate,

it appears that this 305k mile engine might still be on the road if it didn't overheat at some point, I'm only guessing but 2 cylinders appear to have run with less compression for sometime before it died... I think the rings collapsed I can see signs of blow by through the ring land ports, I also believe it was running rich for awhile based on the intake ports and valve stems maybe some blow by on the valve seals or guilds... all in all there was no one huge part failure,

I see no reason these engines with minimal care shouldn't go 500k miles... good oils, changed regularly and keep them cool... I do not believe these engines like heat... I have not torn one down completely YET but I will report back when i do... really just a bunch of pretty (as in they look good) well made parts inside...

just my 2 cents for today
 
Great information. Thanks for taking the time to post your experience with the engine
 
Is this out of a 4.7 LC or Tundra/Sequoia? Wonder if you would see a difference? Thanks for posting your findings.
 
this 305k engine is out of a 1998 LC, my understanding is that all the Toyota engines in this series of 4.7 share the long block, to use a sequoia or 4runner or tundra engine in the LC one of the things I have to use the oil pan from the LC... so I get to look inside both doing this swap of parts... they "look" the same,
You have to understand what I'm use to seeing.... in my teens British engines even then were 20yo designs and the basic small block chevy was 25years old when I built my first one, all push rod cam in block designs,
This Toyota is a small displacement V8 with dual overhead cams with better metallurgy built and machined to better tolerances on better machines and far newer engineering. (even if it is now 20 years old)
it's like comparing your apple I pad to a mechanical typewriter.
 
I got 210K on my new 98, hoping to reach at least 300K. Thanks for sharing!
 
I believe there are internal differences between the 2UZ-FE in the LC and the 2UZ-FE in the Tundra/Sequoia (i-Force). IIRC, forged connecting rods are one of them.
 
I believe they are all powder forged, not quite the same process and they are notoriously weak rods when trying to make any power. Powder forging is much cheaper and less waste involved.

Don't get me wrong though, great motor, I've got a couple.....
 
Just a bit of background, I built (rebuilt) my first engines @12 mac91b1 2 stroke racing kart engines, went on and built more 400 chevy small block based circle track engine than I can count, have 100s of hours on a flow bench and 100s more machining rods polishing cranks and balancing assemblies,

but these little 4.7 toyotas are sweet...
a few notes:
every bolt that requires a 10mm socket will unscrew with 8 revolutions (7+ actually) each 12mm 9 full turns, 14mm 12 turns will get everyone that I counted, doesn't matter where on the engine these bolts are these numbers seem to work, (20 turns on the spark plugs)

I just pulled my latest 305,000 mile engine apart... I have no idea the type of care this engine received or the lubricants or time frame in which they were changed... BUT there is next to no end play in the crank, I've never built one of these engines and I don't know the specs or what type thrust control they have on the cranks but the factory machine work is nice, the rods are a I beam design that are surface finished to a very high level for a stock production engine, I have not examined any journals (main or rod) but I see all but zero signs of wear... this little 287ci engine has the bottom end of what I would expect to see in a 400ci engine... the main caps are 2 bolt but well machined, the block is cast iron but shows all but zero flash, the front and rear main seals appear to be full circle and held in a well machined alum housing/end plate,

it appears that this 305k mile engine might still be on the road if it didn't overheat at some point, I'm only guessing but 2 cylinders appear to have run with less compression for sometime before it died... I think the rings collapsed I can see signs of blow by through the ring land ports, I also believe it was running rich for awhile based on the intake ports and valve stems maybe some blow by on the valve seals or guilds... all in all there was no one huge part failure,

I see no reason these engines with minimal care shouldn't go 500k miles... good oils, changed regularly and keep them cool... I do not believe these engines like heat... I have not torn one down completely YET but I will report back when i do... really just a bunch of pretty (as in they look good) well made parts inside...

just my 2 cents for today
I made it to 380 on my 99LC before the top radiator hose went on me and caused my engine failure. So i agree that if it was not for that it would still be going strong, I asked other users to pay attention to their coolant hoses and change them sooner than later to prevent one from failing.This rig is a beast and i will drive mine forever.

IMG_1230 resize.jpg
 
Correct, there were no actual forged rods used in the 1UZ, 2UZ or 3UZ, they were a sintered powder rod. Not a bad design, actually pretty good for the application, but no where near a forged and machined rod in terms of ultimate strength.


I believe there are internal differences between the 2UZ-FE in the LC and the 2UZ-FE in the Tundra/Sequoia (i-Force). IIRC, forged connecting rods are one of them.

I believe they are all powder forged, not quite the same process and they are notoriously weak rods when trying to make any power. Powder forging is much cheaper and less waste involved.

Don't get me wrong though, great motor, I've got a couple.....
 

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