RET2
SILVER Star
Things of this nature are a byproduct of depending on others to do their part of a task as well as you did your portion.
Jowett Performance Filter Housing with Fumoto drain valve (6 Viewers)
- Thread starter FinallyGotOne!
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RET2
SILVER Star
Get the Fumoto valves (pan and drain) and a cold bottle of CM and do your own in 20 minutes. One could also transition to full synthetic and only due 1/2 or 1/3rd as many changes.
Markuson
SILVER Star
Ya.., Thing is... Every time a ask...it bumps the thread, and several more people see it and order.
So maybe I’m just a plant by @ bjowett to drum up more orders.
Who isn't running full synthetic in their 200 series? Isn't synthetic 0w-20 the standard recomendation from Toyota?
Markuson
SILVER Star
I usually don’t do synthetic....but I stay on a more frequent change schedule. This topic has many threads, so if you are curious, do a search in this forum. Looooooooong threads about it.
Nutshell conclusion to save you a whole lot of reading:
-If you change frequently, non-synthetic is perfectly fine. If you tend to go a long way between changes...synthetic cost makes sense.
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I learned the hard way on my wifes Sienna van that seals dont like switching back and forth from Dino to Synthetic. So, my other 2 Toyota V8s used Castrol GTX. The engine just seemed to run smoother on Castrol GTX. When I got my 15 LC, I checked the service records and synthetic was all it ever had. On my kids cars I've always used Mobil 1 extended performance because I only get to change their oil when they were home from school. Seemed to be ok, so that's what I'm using on the LC. To bring it back around to the topic of this thread, I'll be happy to have one of Brian's filter caps some time in the next 9500 miles. Tick toc.
If I had a mill and taps (and knew the right size to use), I'd try it. I don't trust my drill press to drill round enough for an excellent seal.
It's been a while, an update on where things are at would help manage our expectations a bit.
Is the search for a new machine shop still going or is this officially dead?
I've ordered and received a Toyota aluminum lower screw-on piece...thread hole on that guy is 18x1.5mm but you'd need to mill the surrounding raised rings around the threaded part to use that size.
For some s's and g's, I checked the end cap itself...3/8 npt taper thread valve looks like it will fit nicely...only thing I haven't checked is clearance between a filter with an installed manual valve clears the underbody metal. The threaded cap with o-ring is supposed to show up Friday or Monday next.
As far as the drill press, I plan to use a ground steel rod that fits snugly and bottoms into the square 3/8" ratchet hole in the cap. Once the cap is pressed onto the drill press table, I'll clamp it down and drill away.
Very cool. How will u test? Don’t want anyone blowing an engine. I think getting the upper part hooking up some lines and generate typical engine oil pressures. Perhaps Brian has a test rig he’d give you time on. Lemme know if I can help. Watching with great interest.
Only thing that comes to mind (been on a tractor most of the day) would be to have
start the engine while I'm looking for seeping or worse under the truck. If we don't find leaks, I'll leave it running until it gets to normal temp and then another half hour or so. Assuming that 3/8 pipe thread will work, I plan on using This Femco low profile drain plug.I like the design v. Fumoto as it's not bulky. I've got them on 2 tractors (11 drain plugs on one), our LX and LC, Honda ATV's, No failures ever. You drain the oil by removing the cap and threading on a brass drain nipple attached to a plastic hose. I shove that into a 2.5 gal. jug and I can do something else while the filter drains...and then finish by draining the pan while I'm doing something else.
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Orange Hat
SILVER Star
This may be rubbing salt in the wounds for those that don’t have it yet but I converted mine over today to the Jowett filter housing and Fumotos. This was my first time to change the oil “the old way” and WHAT A MESS (what was Toyota thinking!)! Oil all over everything including my nice BudBuilt skids. Ended up just pulling the skids and getting everything cleaned up before putting the “much better solution” in place.
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No issues with mixed metals or brass threads?
No issues whatsoever. No electrolysis as there's no exposure to water. Not sure what you mean by issues with brass.
Count me in on one of these mythical beasts if they appear at some point in the future.
I think this is officially dead. No updates and no end in site... And he's basically ignoring us now...
It's going to be one of those one hit wonders.
It's going to be one of those one hit wonders.
If someone has a CNC, and the time to reverse engineer the existing housing with a threaded hole for the valve, you’ve got yourself the same thing. I couldn’t care less about the anodizing and the part being pretty. Cut the part from a block, form tap the threads, tap a hole for a valve and call it good. The pent up demand could yield a nice return.
The problem is finding time on a 5 axis CNC and an building the program. So... we just wait.
The problem is finding time on a 5 axis CNC and an building the program. So... we just wait.
bjowett
Supporting Vendor
Not ignoring, just surviving. The caps arrived earlier this week. Still waiting on sockets... this might be my last run of them, too much BS and it isn't fair to you folks. If anyone wants a cap, you can buy starting Monday, but you will have to source your own socket.
