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- #41
Before. There is a common leak point on the inboard forward corner of the gas tank, on the upper side where there is a crimp in the stamped metal.
Builds Jackie: 1996 FZJ80 Survivor. A rolling resurrection (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter chbrow10
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ooh! did you have an issue where the gas pump doesnt click off when it's full? I'm not able to fill it up all the way or else it will start leaking towards the front of the tank but I haven't tried to put a smoke machine to see if there is a leak in the tank.
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- #43
I didn’t have the problem you describe. A smoke test would be a good idea. There are a few posts here on mud that describe the issue.
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- #44
Did the front window runners. Much easier having done the rears. I did not need to remove the window glass. Window motors are much happier now.
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- #45
While doing the window runners, I noticed my window control thingy had some corrosion. I cleaned it up and put on some dielectric grease. I was wondering if this is the cause of some intermittent driver side window motor problems, but I don't think so, as the conductors were not corroded through...
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- #46
Starting to get warm here, 80 degrees today. So she got dropped off to the AC mechanic. AC hasn't worked since I bought it.
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- #47
She's back from the AC shop. Evaporator had a pretty big leak. I asked for the Denso part so I had to wait while they ordered it. Shout out to Diberville Auto Air. Those folks have worked on my 60 and have done me solid on the 80. Air blows cold. Of course winter is back (freeze warning tonight) so that was a bit premature...
I spent some time working my P0401 EGR low flow DTC. The little filter in the modulator was dark dark brown and the bottom of it was very hard. I happened to have a replacement from the 1997 engine core, so I swapped it in and made sure all the vacuum lines were tight. I'm working my way through all the vacuum lines. All the ones on top are done. I'm pretty sure my intake manifold port is clogged up and that is the cause of the DTC.
I also troubleshot the P0130 and P0133 DTCs, which are bank 1, sensor 1 (upstream) O2 sensor codes. I followed the FSM troubleshooting tree. Heater resistance was good, the wiring was sending a signal no problem. I hooked up the BlueDrive and watched the O2 voltage fluctuate at idle when warm. It wasn't getting above the 0.55 volt mark consistently, and was dropping off into the 0.35 volt range at the bottom. See below, it was the third from the left kind of waveform. I ordered a new Denso O2 sensor and new nuts. I started the Kano Kroil soak as well. Buy the looks of the nuts, they've been off before. Not surprised given the mileage.
I'm also chasing a rough idle. RPM is per the spec, 650-700. But it is definitely rough. Do these have an AC idle up VSV like the 60?
I spent some time working my P0401 EGR low flow DTC. The little filter in the modulator was dark dark brown and the bottom of it was very hard. I happened to have a replacement from the 1997 engine core, so I swapped it in and made sure all the vacuum lines were tight. I'm working my way through all the vacuum lines. All the ones on top are done. I'm pretty sure my intake manifold port is clogged up and that is the cause of the DTC.
I also troubleshot the P0130 and P0133 DTCs, which are bank 1, sensor 1 (upstream) O2 sensor codes. I followed the FSM troubleshooting tree. Heater resistance was good, the wiring was sending a signal no problem. I hooked up the BlueDrive and watched the O2 voltage fluctuate at idle when warm. It wasn't getting above the 0.55 volt mark consistently, and was dropping off into the 0.35 volt range at the bottom. See below, it was the third from the left kind of waveform. I ordered a new Denso O2 sensor and new nuts. I started the Kano Kroil soak as well. Buy the looks of the nuts, they've been off before. Not surprised given the mileage.
I'm also chasing a rough idle. RPM is per the spec, 650-700. But it is definitely rough. Do these have an AC idle up VSV like the 60?
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- #48
O2 sensor installed. Sorry for the low quality iPad picture. Whoever on here recommended penetrating oil and replacing the nuts is brilliant. The nuts were so bad I think one of them is stuck in the socket permanently.
As one sign of hope that this was the problem, the code was gone and the CEL cleared itself at startup. The fuel system was immediately in closed loop upon starting. Time will tell if this is the issue, but she is off to a good start.
As one sign of hope that this was the problem, the code was gone and the CEL cleared itself at startup. The fuel system was immediately in closed loop upon starting. Time will tell if this is the issue, but she is off to a good start.
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- #49
Been busy and haven’t worked on her for a while. Actually I have been daily driving her as my wife sold her QX56 and had to drive my Tundra until she just recently bought her new car.
I was able to break free for 10 minutes and replace the rear hatch struts. I went with the Amazon $23 jobs. You can really feel the difference. Hatch just pops itself up now.
Gotta get after the fuel tank leak next. My old repair didn’t hold up.
I was able to break free for 10 minutes and replace the rear hatch struts. I went with the Amazon $23 jobs. You can really feel the difference. Hatch just pops itself up now.
Gotta get after the fuel tank leak next. My old repair didn’t hold up.
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- #51
That’s the plan. The progress has slowed a bit as I am having to daily drive the car. This weekend I’ll fix the fuel tank leak and change the transmission filter. I’ll update the thread with that work.
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- #52
After a long hiatus, I'm back on the tools. This weekend is the fuel tank and the transmission filter. The tank is out and empty and is airing out overnight before I start into it. The last time I had it out the car was on a lift and this time I'm in the driveway. I was happy to find an easy way to drain the last little bit out of the tank with the car on stands.
I focused on the transmission for most of the time this afternoon. I was concerned that the filter had never been changed and with this many miles, I thought it really needed to get done. For once I was happy to see orange permatex on the pan indicating someone had been in here before. And the filter that was in it was black, not unpainted alumimun like the OEM filter. So thankfully someone had been in here and changed the filter before now.
The magnets were all there and didn't look too bad. There wasn't anything on the magnets you could feel. Just that magnetic fuzz, which I have always been told is completely fine and normal. I did find some stuff that was not magnetic and in the bottom of the pan, see the pic with the tip of the pocket screwdriver. There was one single 2mm magnetic piece. For this many miles, I'm pretty happy.
If you wanted to know what the valve body looks like on one of these, here you go. Pretty much like every other valve body I've seen. Everything seems in order and I don't have any operational concerns with how the trans is shifting. Tomorrow I'll button her back up and start on the fuel tank,
I focused on the transmission for most of the time this afternoon. I was concerned that the filter had never been changed and with this many miles, I thought it really needed to get done. For once I was happy to see orange permatex on the pan indicating someone had been in here before. And the filter that was in it was black, not unpainted alumimun like the OEM filter. So thankfully someone had been in here and changed the filter before now.
The magnets were all there and didn't look too bad. There wasn't anything on the magnets you could feel. Just that magnetic fuzz, which I have always been told is completely fine and normal. I did find some stuff that was not magnetic and in the bottom of the pan, see the pic with the tip of the pocket screwdriver. There was one single 2mm magnetic piece. For this many miles, I'm pretty happy.
If you wanted to know what the valve body looks like on one of these, here you go. Pretty much like every other valve body I've seen. Everything seems in order and I don't have any operational concerns with how the trans is shifting. Tomorrow I'll button her back up and start on the fuel tank,
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- #53
The tranny was buttoned up and while waiting for the sealant to fully cure I started on the fuel tank. I had to first dremel out all the old JB Weld. Here's what that looked like.
Then I stop drilled the holes. Then I let the tank air out with an air mattress pump I had. Apparently those pumps aren't continuous duty because after about an hours or so it just stopped working. But it lasted through the braze.
I did a practice brazing run run on a flat piece of steel and that went great. This is on the peak of a ridge in the tank and getting the flux/braze to flow was difficult. I was able to get it to flow into the crack and the stop holes. I should have stopped there but just kept adding braze and then it got clumpy. Oh well, it passed a soap and blow air test, so I suppose it will do.
I'm going with the belt and suspenders approach on this because I don't want to have to pull this for a 3rd time. I am also coating the inside of the tank with the KBS 3 part tank sealing system. While affordable and highly rated, this stuff is messy. Part of that is me, if there is a possibility of making a mess, I'll do it. Anyway, I don't have any advice for anyone using this system. Follow the instructions (they are quite good, and they have videos on YT), and try to contain it. Since this hole is on the top of the tank, in an odd location, it is hard to be sure the liquid is flowing over the repair area.
now it is curing for 96 hours. It should be able to take fuel on Wednesday afternoon.
Next up: oil pump gasket, water pump, front main seal, radiator hoses, thermostat, power steering hoses (all 4), all 3 belts, and replacing the old transmission cooler hoses. All of that is in one spot. I'm trying to hit all of the "while you are in there" stuff. If I missed any, y'all let me know.
Then I stop drilled the holes. Then I let the tank air out with an air mattress pump I had. Apparently those pumps aren't continuous duty because after about an hours or so it just stopped working. But it lasted through the braze.
I did a practice brazing run run on a flat piece of steel and that went great. This is on the peak of a ridge in the tank and getting the flux/braze to flow was difficult. I was able to get it to flow into the crack and the stop holes. I should have stopped there but just kept adding braze and then it got clumpy. Oh well, it passed a soap and blow air test, so I suppose it will do.
I'm going with the belt and suspenders approach on this because I don't want to have to pull this for a 3rd time. I am also coating the inside of the tank with the KBS 3 part tank sealing system. While affordable and highly rated, this stuff is messy. Part of that is me, if there is a possibility of making a mess, I'll do it. Anyway, I don't have any advice for anyone using this system. Follow the instructions (they are quite good, and they have videos on YT), and try to contain it. Since this hole is on the top of the tank, in an odd location, it is hard to be sure the liquid is flowing over the repair area.
now it is curing for 96 hours. It should be able to take fuel on Wednesday afternoon.
Next up: oil pump gasket, water pump, front main seal, radiator hoses, thermostat, power steering hoses (all 4), all 3 belts, and replacing the old transmission cooler hoses. All of that is in one spot. I'm trying to hit all of the "while you are in there" stuff. If I missed any, y'all let me know.
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- #54
Today I painted and prepped the fuel tank to go back in while the sealant is curing. Painted the bare metal parts and the area that was brazed. Since the leaking fuel had destroyed the rubber chafe guard for the e-brake conduit, I replaced it with precision cut bicycle inner tube, rubber cemented down to the tank.
There was still some time left in the day, so I decided to tackle the fuel filter under the manifold. There is a really great YT video out of Oz, the link is here:
It is getting hot down here, so I set up the beach tent. Fits over the hood pretty well. I'll be using this for the next repair.
The problem is, the last guy in here never attached the inboard bolt. This means that when I went to loosen the inlet banjo bolt, the entire filter just twisted away. I ended up having to beat the filter back into position, then unbolted the single retaining bolt, then removed the entire filter, with the inlet hose still attached. when I finally loosened the bajo bolt, all this rust stained gas came out. yuck. The tank looks fine, so there must be a rusty fuel line somewhere. The filter was a Chinese special.
Parts are on the way for the next repair. Maybe next weekend I'll get started on that.
There was still some time left in the day, so I decided to tackle the fuel filter under the manifold. There is a really great YT video out of Oz, the link is here:
It is getting hot down here, so I set up the beach tent. Fits over the hood pretty well. I'll be using this for the next repair.
The problem is, the last guy in here never attached the inboard bolt. This means that when I went to loosen the inlet banjo bolt, the entire filter just twisted away. I ended up having to beat the filter back into position, then unbolted the single retaining bolt, then removed the entire filter, with the inlet hose still attached. when I finally loosened the bajo bolt, all this rust stained gas came out. yuck. The tank looks fine, so there must be a rusty fuel line somewhere. The filter was a Chinese special.
Parts are on the way for the next repair. Maybe next weekend I'll get started on that.
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- #55
This weekend (and probably into next week) is the water pump, thermostat, FMS, oil pump cover, rad hoses, power steering hoses, trans cooler hoses and all that stuff that is easy to get to when you take the rad out.
Started off following the OTRAMM video, removing the lights and grill. While the lights are out, I'm going to bake the light that is leaking and take it apart and apply more butel tape.
The crank bolt was a bear to get out. It damaged my crank holder tool, which is 1/4 inch steel, and my breaker bar. I tried a 600 ft-# impact. I tried a 3 foot cheater bar on the 3 foot breaker bar. Nothing. I had to bump it with the starter and it came out.
The front main seal appeared to be OEM, but had these weird wrinkles. Recall this is a Jasper reman engine. Not sure what the story is...
On to the oil pump cover. I did exactly what Ryan said, cleaned out all the screws. #3 philips tapped into each screw head. That was fine and worked until it didn't. Last one cammed out and stripped the head. Tried reverse drill bits. Probably should have tried the Torx. Tried the welder. Ended up just breaking the cover off.
Started off following the OTRAMM video, removing the lights and grill. While the lights are out, I'm going to bake the light that is leaking and take it apart and apply more butel tape.
The crank bolt was a bear to get out. It damaged my crank holder tool, which is 1/4 inch steel, and my breaker bar. I tried a 600 ft-# impact. I tried a 3 foot cheater bar on the 3 foot breaker bar. Nothing. I had to bump it with the starter and it came out.
The front main seal appeared to be OEM, but had these weird wrinkles. Recall this is a Jasper reman engine. Not sure what the story is...
On to the oil pump cover. I did exactly what Ryan said, cleaned out all the screws. #3 philips tapped into each screw head. That was fine and worked until it didn't. Last one cammed out and stripped the head. Tried reverse drill bits. Probably should have tried the Torx. Tried the welder. Ended up just breaking the cover off.
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- #56
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- #57
Whew. Every single power steering/automatic transmission hose has been replaced. I used 7 feet of Gates 3/8 400 psi transmission hose, and the Rein 16 mm (5/8) hose from Rock Auto. I used the Gates high pressure line, also from Rock Auto. Lots of new rubber in the below picture. The 3/8 hose is very tight to get on the 10mm fittings and the constant tension clamps are not very tight. Give hose tight the hose is, I'm not overly worried just yet.
Some of these hoses were so stiff that when bent over on themselves, the cracked. Looks like these are the original hoses.
I installed the new Aisin waterpump, the new FMS, and torqued the crank bolt to 300 ft-# plus a little bit (torque wrench only goes to 300, and the spec is 304). Tomorrow the oil pressure sensor arrives and I'll install that, the OEM t-stat, and the big rad hoses (Gates from RockAuto). Then I'll button her up with new fan belts and bleed the PS system.
Some of these hoses were so stiff that when bent over on themselves, the cracked. Looks like these are the original hoses.
I installed the new Aisin waterpump, the new FMS, and torqued the crank bolt to 300 ft-# plus a little bit (torque wrench only goes to 300, and the spec is 304). Tomorrow the oil pressure sensor arrives and I'll install that, the OEM t-stat, and the big rad hoses (Gates from RockAuto). Then I'll button her up with new fan belts and bleed the PS system.
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- #58
Slowly buttoned her up this week. Had to wait on parts, a new oil pressure sensor and a fitting for the radiator. The rad was replaced by the PO and it isn't a top shelf unit. It does the job and keeps her cool, but the fittings were thin aluminum flare nut fittings and broke off when I was putting the hose on it. Went with a 45 degree swivel fitting off Amazon. Two test drives and no leaking from anywhere and no air in the system (power steering or engine coolant).
The absolute best part is the oil pressure gauge works now.
The absolute best part is the oil pressure gauge works now.
I think you posted this on facebook group right? What was the issue on yours? the oil pressure sensor or behind the gauge cluster?
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- #60
I have heard some say it was something to do with the gauge, but that wasn't the case for me. It was the oil pressure sensor for me.
