Builds Jackie: 1996 FZJ80 Survivor. A rolling resurrection (1 Viewer)

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Its a 14mm to take the old sensor off and I think its 5/8s to get the new one on. Don't forget a little red Loctite on the threads of the new one. You'll need to take the heat shield off the headers to get to it. I changed mine with the thermostat housing off so I had good access, but I think you will be able to get to it.
 
Its a 14mm to take the old sensor off and I think its 5/8s to get the new one on. Don't forget a little red Loctite on the threads of the new one. You'll need to take the heat shield off the headers to get to it. I changed mine with the thermostat housing off so I had good access, but I think you will be able to get to it.
did you tighten it all the way through or were there still some threads exposed? I just put mine in and the gauge didnt budge.
 
I'll post it on my build thread
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so I checked the EWD and I saw two wires going to the oil pressure sender. is that brown and white?

it turns out that the white wire shields around the brown one. I just bought a new harness from the dealer. Pricey!

I'll update how it turns out

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so I checked the EWD and I saw two wires going to the oil pressure sender. is that brown and white?

it turns out that the white wire shields around the brown one. I just bought a new harness from the dealer. Pricey!

I'll update how it turns out

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Well, I imagine that not connecting that second wire could be why it doesn't work.
 
Well, I imagine that not connecting that second wire could be why it doesn't work.
Yup! The new wire I ordered arrived today and it has the second connector that connects to the button at the center. Once I wired them up, I started the truck and I can now see the oil pressure rising! Turns out it was the missing connector that didn't complete the circuit. I guess the gauge cluster was fine after all, hahaha!
 
Yup! The new wire I ordered arrived today and it has the second connector that connects to the button at the center. Once I wired them up, I started the truck and I can now see the oil pressure rising! Turns out it was the missing connector that didn't complete the circuit. I guess the gauge cluster was fine after all, hahaha!
Glad it worked out. I oddly get a good feeling when I look at the working oil pressure gauge.
 
Glad it worked out. I oddly get a good feeling when I look at the working oil pressure gauge.
I need to get a baseline of what the normal level is going to be once the engine has warmed up. I put in a new oil earlier this month: Rotella 15w40 T4?
 
Both diffs are out this afternoon, thanks to @CarterB341 who came over to help. Will get crated up and sent off to ECGS for Eatons.

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I've never gotten this far and not had the soupy gravy just come pouring out. I must have gotten there just in time.

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I have a list of "while you're in there's" while the diffs are out:

  • Full Monty knuckle rebuild
  • new tie rod ends
  • new rear wheel bearings
  • new rear axle seals
  • new steering damper
  • adjust parking brake
I was going to do the rear brakes (and ordered the parts) but they are good enough to wait for when the lift is installed.
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This is how I did my tie rods ends. I didn't want to paint them on the truck.

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I mustered the courage to notch the 54mm so I could do the rear bearing preload.

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Diffs are back from ECGS, they are back early actually. Only took them 4 days to install and ship them back to me. I spend the weekend in the "feels like 108 degrees" starting to get everything back together. Then I realized I didn't order a rear diff gasket. oof..
 
Been busy and haven’t worked on her for a while. Actually I have been daily driving her as my wife sold her QX56 and had to drive my Tundra until she just recently bought her new car.

I was able to break free for 10 minutes and replace the rear hatch struts. I went with the Amazon $23 jobs. You can really feel the difference. Hatch just pops itself up now.

Gotta get after the fuel tank leak next. My old repair didn’t hold up.


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Which Amazon struts?
 

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