Builds Jackie: 1996 FZJ80 Survivor. A rolling resurrection (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter chbrow10
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- Thread starter
- #82
So the diffs came back from ECGS after a 4 day turnaround (they quoted 2 weeks). It has been Africa hot here in south Mississippi, like the rest of the country. Here it is typical to see "feels like" 106 F days. So I've been working this early in the morning or late in the afternoon. This past Sunday I woke up at 5 AM and was out there at 5:30. By about noon-ish, I had everything back together mechanically, and Son#2 came over to advise on the wiring routing. He put Eatons in his Sequoia in January. I took it for a test drive and there were no crunching sounds, so that is a plus.
In case you want to know what these look like, here you go... I did clean off the gears before I installed it.
While installing the tie rod ends, a strange thing occurred. The FSM torque spec is 67 ft-lb. 3 of the 4 ends torqued up no problem. I was using a click type torque wrench. The 4th, the one that attaches to the Pitman arm, never achieved the torque and then started to get way easier to tighten. When I pulled the socket off, I found the hole for the cotter key to be way above the castle nut, so the stud has over extended inside the joint. From the picture, I also see that I need to adjust the angle better when I replace it.
After that gets replaced, I'll complete the gear break in process. I'll start the wiring now...
Next up is the bumper and sliders. I just ordered the ARB Commercial bumper, but fear its coming on a slow boat from Down Under....
In case you want to know what these look like, here you go... I did clean off the gears before I installed it.
While installing the tie rod ends, a strange thing occurred. The FSM torque spec is 67 ft-lb. 3 of the 4 ends torqued up no problem. I was using a click type torque wrench. The 4th, the one that attaches to the Pitman arm, never achieved the torque and then started to get way easier to tighten. When I pulled the socket off, I found the hole for the cotter key to be way above the castle nut, so the stud has over extended inside the joint. From the picture, I also see that I need to adjust the angle better when I replace it.
After that gets replaced, I'll complete the gear break in process. I'll start the wiring now...
Next up is the bumper and sliders. I just ordered the ARB Commercial bumper, but fear its coming on a slow boat from Down Under....
- Thread starter
- #83
A bit of an update:
Lockers are in. New tie rod ends are installed, the birfs, rear bearings, and axle seals are all done. Gears have gone through the 500 break in and the diff oil has been changed. I still need to wire them up, but it has been hot as Hades here (and everywhere else, I know). I'm learning that I need to make a bracket to hold the relays and breakers under the hood, so I'll be fabbing something up.
I've ordered the ARB Commercial bar as I am intent on running an 8274 on this truck. Those things are like crack, once you use one, you aren't going back to a planetary winch. Then the sliders. Maybe by the time the sliders get done it won't be 1000 degrees outside.
And this happened on the way to work today:
Lockers are in. New tie rod ends are installed, the birfs, rear bearings, and axle seals are all done. Gears have gone through the 500 break in and the diff oil has been changed. I still need to wire them up, but it has been hot as Hades here (and everywhere else, I know). I'm learning that I need to make a bracket to hold the relays and breakers under the hood, so I'll be fabbing something up.
I've ordered the ARB Commercial bar as I am intent on running an 8274 on this truck. Those things are like crack, once you use one, you aren't going back to a planetary winch. Then the sliders. Maybe by the time the sliders get done it won't be 1000 degrees outside.
And this happened on the way to work today:
- Thread starter
- #84
I installed the CDL button today, and started fabbing the brackets that will hold the locker electrical components. As I understand it, even when twin locked, I will need the CDL button if I want to run in high range with any locker on.
Here's how I moved my buttons around to make sure that all the harnesses had slack. I had to remove the fake wood trim veneer to get the switches out. I'm guessing that goes on after the switches are installed. Since the power antenna is broken anyway, I removed that switch.
Here's how I moved my buttons around to make sure that all the harnesses had slack. I had to remove the fake wood trim veneer to get the switches out. I'm guessing that goes on after the switches are installed. Since the power antenna is broken anyway, I removed that switch.
Seeing you are running Eaton lockers you may want to look into this thread.
Harrop E-Locker using OEM switch
Harrop E-Locker using OEM switch
- Thread starter
- #86
Thanks. I am not interested in using the OEM switch.
- Thread starter
- #87
Today is locker wiring day. I fabricated a bracket for under the hood to hold the terminal block for battery power and another for under the dash. I know that a lot of folks are putting the relays and breakers under the hood, but most of my wheeling is mudding and everything gets coated in dirt. So I am wanted to get all those eltrical components in the cab.
The under dash bracket:
The under hood bracket
It is going to go right here: and this firewall plug is perfectly located near where the under dash bracket is going.
...
I should be able to finish up tomorrow, I'll post the final install pictures.
The under dash bracket:
The under hood bracket
It is going to go right here: and this firewall plug is perfectly located near where the under dash bracket is going.
I should be able to finish up tomorrow, I'll post the final install pictures.
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- #88
Here is the final install of the electrical equipment in the truck. They have been in there about 2 months. No problems. I'm pretty happy with it.
- Thread starter
- #89
I went to the Southern Cruiser Crawl in Hot Springs, AR. Few pic from the trails. With no lift and 27 year old suspension, I'm pretty happy with how it went. No damage and my wheeling buddy had fun.
- Thread starter
- #90
This is the result of 7 hours of my time today. If I could do it all over, I would send the wheel out to someone to recover it. Not hard. Just time consuming.
- Thread starter
- #91
Took advantage of the Exit Offroad Dobinsons sale. Will be installing it over the next few weeks. 2.5” with IMS shocks.
- Thread starter
- #92
I was learning about piston soaks in chemicals to free up oil control rings or piston rings, so I decided to give it a try. I used Berryman's B12 Chem Tool injector cleaner since there were some good results with that by others. Didn't seem to help my #5. Here are the numbers. Not sure why the font is so large. When #5 didn't change, I didn't bother to test the other cylinders.
So I am guessing that after about 200,000 miles, whatever brand of piston rings that Jasper used are starting to wear out. There are about 10,000 miles between when I bought it and now.
So I am guessing that after about 200,000 miles, whatever brand of piston rings that Jasper used are starting to wear out. There are about 10,000 miles between when I bought it and now.
- Thread starter
- #93
Finally getting around to installing the lift. Dobinson's 2.5 lift with IMS shocks. Doing this by yourself is a job. "While I'm in there" I'm doing;
new brake lines:
rebuilding the calipers: went with the Raybestos kit and man, those new square seals were tight!
replacing the bushings: This easily added half a day to the effort.
For the next episode:
- extended brake lines (Metal Tech)
- replacing all the non-extended lines with new lines from Toyota
- new OEM bushings in all the links (except one, couldn't get OEM, so tried Ironman, no bueno)
- new rear panhard bushings
- eimkieth panhard correction kit (the weld on one)
- new sway bar bushings (front and rear)
- front and rear sway bar drop brackets
- rebuilding all 4 brake calipers (and a brake fluid flush for no extra effort!)
- new rear brake pads (fronts were good)
- extending the front and rear diff breathers
- LSPV extended bracket.
- caster correction bushings in the radius arms
new brake lines:
rebuilding the calipers: went with the Raybestos kit and man, those new square seals were tight!
replacing the bushings: This easily added half a day to the effort.
For the next episode:
