J**p Liberty 2.8 CRD into a Cruiser?

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Toyotas figures show a 100 series around 2,400kg. Put a stock one over a weigh-bridge and you get 2,800kg.

If you pulled out the seats, tyres and all fluids you'd get close to the claimed figures.

80 series owners report much the same.

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My 73 and 75 series were pretty close to the advertised weight.
My 75 series was 2300kg with bullbar and steel tray(now alloy) ,toyota stated it was 1950kg as sold without BB and tray
These days the cops and the insurance companies are scrutanising the gross weights of 4wd vehicles that have been in accidents.
Toyota and other companies may have published some dodgy figures 10 years ago but it would be a legal nightmare now.
 
I actually did a bunch of research on this. The 2.8 CRD diesel in the Liberty is a pretty decent engine. It is Italian made by VM Motori and is a pretty basic electronically controlled engine. I couldn't find any production parts to mate it to a Toyota 4 or 5 speed, so in my opinion, keep the Liberty gear box unless you have a full blown machine shop to build adapter plates and fly wheels from billet. The engine remained largely unchanged for the short time it was produced.

The other one mentioned was the 3.0 CRD, or OM642, in the Grand Cherokee. If I had my choice to put into a cruiser, it would be this one. Not quite the fuel sipper that the 2.8 is, it still garnered upper 20's (in my real life driving experience, not on paper). It is smoother than the 2.8 (I have driven both). And most importantly, it had way more power than the smaller Jeep. You will have the same challenges putting the 3.0 in as the 2.8 so why not go for the bigger smoother stronger? Pretty sure that is what my ex's were thinking.

Obviously there are pros and cons to both engines in terms of availability and cost, as well as the rebuild issue that was mentioned (I never looked into that aspect). But if properly maintained, these engines should last a very long time. I was quite impressed with MB's testing of this engine in their e-series cars. Wish I could find the link for it.

Good luck and let us know if you do this swap. I would love to see it done.
 
I.ve driven the jeep diesel. I think it would be a decent swap. Have you considered the isuzu 4cyl. Diesel?
 
how are the govt fuel consumption figure arrived at?
actual testing on the road or mathamatics and theories?

Government fuel testing has been an area of "concern" for years and is generally considered a rough estimate at best. The vehicle is basically put on a "threadmill" in an environmentally controlled setting ( set temp, no wind, flat surface etc.) and the actual fuel consumption can vary greatly in the "real world" often to the disappointment of the vehicles owner.
 
Government fuel testing has been an area of "concern" for years and is generally considered a rough estimate at best. The vehicle is basically put on a "threadmill" in an environmentally controlled setting ( set temp, no wind, flat surface etc.) and the actual fuel consumption can vary greatly in the "real world" often to the disappointment of the vehicles owner.

Standardised fuel consumption testing is done world-wide. It is done on a rolling road with settings to mimick the weight and aerodynamics of that vehicle as this is the only way to get consistent results.

The often talked up "real world results" vary from driver to driver, from day to day, from location to location and from season to season.
Interestingly the figures for standard cars I have owned match up pretty closely with the combined figures for those cars. But I get the usual seasonal variation, usage variation ane even tank to tank variation.
 
I actually did a bunch of research on this. The 2.8 CRD diesel in the Liberty is a pretty decent engine. It is Italian made by VM Motori and is a pretty basic electronically controlled engine. I couldn't find any production parts to mate it to a Toyota 4 or 5 speed, so in my opinion, keep the Liberty gear box unless you have a full blown machine shop to build adapter plates and fly wheels from billet. The engine remained largely unchanged for the short time it was produced.

The other one mentioned was the 3.0 CRD, or OM642, in the Grand Cherokee. If I had my choice to put into a cruiser, it would be this one. Not quite the fuel sipper that the 2.8 is, it still garnered upper 20's (in my real life driving experience, not on paper). It is smoother than the 2.8 (I have driven both). And most importantly, it had way more power than the smaller Jeep. You will have the same challenges putting the 3.0 in as the 2.8 so why not go for the bigger smoother stronger? Pretty sure that is what my ex's were thinking.

Obviously there are pros and cons to both engines in terms of availability and cost, as well as the rebuild issue that was mentioned (I never looked into that aspect). But if properly maintained, these engines should last a very long time. I was quite impressed with MB's testing of this engine in their e-series cars. Wish I could find the link for it.

Good luck and let us know if you do this swap. I would love to see it done.

I would suggest getting any prospective engine to run standalone before taking the time to make it fit.
CR engine control systems can be a bugger for wanting tie-in with a lot of non-engine systems (immobilisers, body control modules, etc etc). It would be a lot less frustrating to sort these out while you still have a complete vehicle to drive than getting everything fitted and then dealing with weeks of electronic trouble-shooting.
 
I would suggest getting any prospective engine to run standalone before taking the time to make it fit.
CR engine control systems can be a bugger for wanting tie-in with a lot of non-engine systems (immobilisers, body control modules, etc etc). It would be a lot less frustrating to sort these out while you still have a complete vehicle to drive than getting everything fitted and then dealing with weeks of electronic trouble-shooting.

Good point. I think anyone undertaking a swap like this needs to have a really good understanding of ALL the components before getting under way. For a complicated systems involved vehicle, having a complete rig to start with is necessary in my opinion. Case in point, the transmission is electronically controlled and has a direct tie in to the engine ECU on the GC or Liberty (or so I'm told). It would be hard to separate the two.

Obviously you can do a swap a bunch of different ways, but for non-engineer guys like me, I would try to get a whole donor car and try to keep as much of the power train/electronics in tact as possible. This also helps cut down on the ancillary item costs and it's always easier to reference something that you can put your hands on instead of a manual that may or may not be exact.

I guess this all begs the question of why do it in the first place? I haven't done it because of the challenges and money. But I totally would if I could just because I think it would be awesome.
 

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