Builds Isuzu 4he1 in to 94 fzj80 build .

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

For some reason the forum isnt letting me upload the photos but. I am going to habe to remove the engine again and adress an oil pan clearance issue i have an omu 3 inch lift on it but the engine trans combo is 3 inches shy of being where the trans cross memeber needs to bolt up factory. Also hood clearance will be problematic as well. Any input on these details would be most helpfull. Going to have to bfh a couple areas of the firewall. And the turbo will dam near be rite on the fire wall so iam going have to ether find a way to flip the turbo or change it out ..
 
well i think i got a plan it will fit but i am going to have to do a bit of work . I got to work the fire wall a bit but not very much. Iam baseing where it sits on the mounts by the stock trans crossmember fitting correct.
 
The front to rear length of these engines is less than the original 6 cylinder, so you should have some flexibility if needed.

I kept my transmission/transfer case and driveshafts in stock location and angles to stop driveline problems and it saves costs in my 4BD2 swap. It worked great.

On the turbo, dom't forget exhaust and intake routing,and wastegate clearance.

Are you allowing for the intercooler? Look in my swap pictures how I did it for ideas.

All these are custom installations, so they take time and thought - no getting around it. Nice thing is you have the stock NPR to get measurements from. That is a great resource.

Good luck.
 
Well its the nqr not the npr its the 4he1 engine and it dam near fits perfect however the oil pan may be problematic iam trying to base where the engine mounts will be off of getting it fat enuf back to bolt up the stock trans crossmember once i get that far iam not gona have a choice but to bfh the drivers firewall a bit . Unless i can find a 4bd2t to swap with sombody with a aw450 bellhouseing that comes with it .
 
I can re route some things no problem but the turbo is gona have to be changed because the air intake side is dam near against the passenger fire wall
 
Well s*** i had to pull everything back out again. This engine just flat ass isnt going to work. I been planning this godam project for two godam years . It simply will not clear the oil pan and the starter . Also i have a 3 inch lift on the godam thing and it still wont ****ing work. I spent this entire last week shoe horning it in relitive place as far as i can and still need to come back 4 more inches for the the trans cross memeber to bolt up. Idk guys 4he1 was a bad idea . But its very low miles like 95k not even properly brokein so what the **** do i do now ??? Find a 4bd2t ?. With a torq converter for a aw450 and bellhouseing ?? Yeah rite spend another ****in year finding that then only to find its wore the **** out ..
 
But even once its in place the turbo intake sode is going to be up against the fire wall on the passenger side and it cant be flipped over amd neither can the mani fold.. this is getting to be a godam joke. I measured literaly every thing. I knew i was gona have clearance problems and i know iam going to have to hammer the drivers fire wall rite at the cornner where the gas pedal is .
 
I was just looking and it really doesnt matter if i hammer the fire wall cuz the turbo is going to be in the aworse place and i cant flip it or clock it like some turbos . So iam simply screwed!! Unless a small groupe of guys show up that have done a couple of these and can help me i dont know what else to do. I just flat dont . Buying new turbos and other stuff was not antisipated . Also nobody makes a loprofile oil pan for these being commercial engine so what do i do? I want this so bad but with this engine i dont think its going to happen.
 
I dont mean to rant guys iam sorry but i am by my self and have nobody to help me at all on this . I have built many cars and trucks but godam i thought i had this linked . Rally the troops and invade my shop and help me with this iron bastard. I will pay even lol .
 
The oil pan is wider you cant really cut one of these i looked in to that to the pick up is on the driver sied i believe . it doesnt need much clearance but once in place it should clear however its a mute point if the turbo air intake is rite upagainst the fire wall . The turbo sits farther back on this engine so ethe iam going to have to bash the passenger fire wall where the ac evap core is . Or something .
 
Not sure if you can see it in this pic but ever where its at in this pick it still needs to go back another 5 or 6 inches. But where it is now its hung up over on the other side where the starter hole is.

20181026_164817.webp
 
@mjosoba i dont want to resort to air hammers but at this point thats where its at .the dam adapter at the back where the injection pump goes in and also runs the gear train is wide as hell theres no getting around it. Even a body lift will help but not enuf for the turbo to clear . I dont need ac and could care less about it . What i do care about is turbo placement .
 
I suspect this engine may not work without a ton of work and dollars spent...It was posted earlier that ASTR looked at this engine, and decided against it. Any of the medium duty 4 cylinder diesels are tall, so require mods. I had to change oil pans and remote my oil filter, spece the steering box, modify the Alt/AC compressor mount, etc..

Any swap will have challenges, but this engine is much more of a challenge with starter. Being the first with a new combination makes it even harder.

I have a 60 and a 4BD2, so not much specific help. But in general:

I welded supports to the stock ISUZU NPR frame, and left the engine, trans, radiator, etc installed. This allowed me to measure things very carefully, check factory clearances, and even run the engine. Then I did the same in my 60.

Measure 10X's, then measure again after you think and look at it many times!

Try to not "Bastardize" the thing - meaning, don't use parts from a 10 different vehicles, or repairs will be much harder. I kept the drive-train stock Toyota, and engine stock Isuzu 99%. Things like engine mounts, AC compressor, alternator, PS, etc., I kept stock Isuzu NPR.

I don't think SoCal is close to Northplatte, so can't help there either...

Take a break, think it through, look and measure again, decide what to do.

Not much help, but good luck.
 
Remember, this engine was designed for rear access and repair with a forward tilting cab. You want to mount it 100% opposite of stock design!
 
Thats kinda where i went with asters aw450 and that went off with out a hitch . The idea i had for mounting the engine was to use the nqrs engine crossbar that the wngine mounts to cuz it curves up and bolts top down in to the frame with two bolt this makeing it sit atop the fram rails but give factory clearances . now with the cruiser frame mounts if it can just go back a couple more inches the dam thing can sit rite down on factory mounts no issue its just mainly the turbo and the starter causeing the stress. If need be i can messafe the oil pan slightly to work . And keep in mind this was at am angle with a jack holding up the the tcase . To give me am exact idea where on the fire wall it needed to be modded.
 
If you’re willing to get rid of the AC, you could build an “extension” to move the turbo forward and up. My uncle recently did one on his Power Wagon. As far as the rest having room, I can’t help there.

CC3DBCE9-2ABA-48FF-BFE4-7BE412F73ACF.webp
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom