Issues with my Tatton driveshaft

[SMG]

So I’ve been slowly putting together my FJ40 /SBC/ TBI and purchasing parts as my funds allow. Last December I ordered a rear driveshaft from Curtis at Tatton Driveshaft’s out of Utah.

I sent all the specs/information/pictures including a drawing of the bolt hole patterns.


Three weeks went by and I received the custom built driveshaft. Everything was good. At the time, I wasn’t ready to install the driveshaft so on the shelf it went along with many other parts I have been collecting for my build. Last week, I finally got my engine running and even though the dog house isn’t installed, I wanted to take it down the street for a test run. It was at this time, when I went to install the driveshaft I noticed the bolt holes were off by half a hole. The wrong yoke flanges were installed.

Realizing it has been 9 months since I ordered the driveshaft, I quickly got on the phone and called Curtis at Tatton. It seems that every time I talk to him I kind of get the run around. He keeps telling me that he needs to talk with his parts guy and I will need new flanged end yokes. He won't call me back or answer my emails.


At this point, I’m not sure what to do. Being that he’s in Utah and I’m in Indy doesn’t’ help the situation. Do I demand a full refund and hope for the best or do I eat the cost and see if my local shop can fix the issue.


It looks like I could weld and drill new holes on the transfer case side, but there’s not enough meat on the diff side. Luckily the pilot is correct.

I'm not real schooled on driveshafts, but I believe this is a 1310 series and after doing some of my own research, I don't think Spicer make a 60mm x 68.5mm yoke flange.

Someone please Help!!!

 

[Rock40]

Call Tom at Tom Woods Driveshaft (also in Utah). I've been using him for years and he'll have the correct flange on the shelf. My guess it'll be in the $30-$40 range and you'll just need to swap out the flange. If Tatton (never heard of them) is giving you the run around that's what I'd do.

 

[White Stripe]

Mark the driveshaft slip yoke and pull it apart. Hopefully u have the round flange on your diff side otherwise install a round flange. Put the u joint flange on the diff round flange and rotate ujoint flange 45 degrees from stock holes and use a couple of vise grips to hold it on. Then flex the ujoint to its max angle so u can drill through the ujoint flange hole into the round diff flange then install a bolt. Move vice grips around and do this until u have all 4 new holes in round flange drilled. Then remove parking brake drum, knock out the studs and do the same with the CV flange and drill new holes in the drum. Hammer in the studs in the new holes. Use lots of cutting oil when drilling. You will have 4 open holes in the drum but it won't hurt anything.

 

[SMG]

Call Tom at Tom Woods Driveshaft (also in Utah). I've been using him for years and he'll have the correct flange on the shelf. My guess it'll be in the $30-$40 range and you'll just need to swap out the flange. If Tatton (never heard of them) is giving you the run around that's what I'd do.

Ok, I will try this first. I should have purchased the driveshaft from them in the beginning.

Thanks

 

[SMG]

Mark the driveshaft slip yoke and pull it apart. Hopefully u have the round flange on your diff side otherwise install a round flange. Put the u joint flange on the diff round flange and rotate ujoint flange 45 degrees from stock holes and use a couple of vise grips to hold it on. Then flex the ujoint to its max angle so u can drill through the ujoint flange hole into the round diff flange then install a bolt. Move vice grips around and do this until u have all 4 new holes in round flange drilled. Then remove parking brake drum, knock out the studs and do the same with the CV flange and drill new holes in the drum. Hammer in the studs in the new holes. Use lots of cutting oil when drilling. You will have 4 open holes in the drum but it won't hurt anything.

No round flange on the diff side, but I totally get what your saying.

I was thinking of keeping the round side on the transfer case, welding up the holes and indicating the pilot hole on my Bridgeport mill, then redrilling the holes.

This would fix the transfer case side. Hopefully someone will have the correct
Diff side flange.

Thanks

 

[White Stripe]

No round flange on the diff side, but I totally get what your saying.

I was thinking of keeping the round side on the transfer case, welding up the holes and indicating the pilot hole on my Bridgeport mill, then redrilling the holes.

This would fix the transfer case side. Hopefully someone will have the correct
Diff side flange.

Thanks

View attachment 1527439

I used to have those square flanges too. I swapped them for the round. Wasn't expensive. Just make sure you get the right spline flange for your pinion.

 

[SMG]

I used to have those square flanges too. I swapped them for the round. Wasn't expensive. Just make sure you get the right spline flange for your pinion.

Good point, where is a good place to buy these?

I wonder if you can buy blanks and drill them yourself?

 

[stevebradford]

From the 60 forum.

which year which output flange

Edit: never mind misread what you have.

 

[JackA]

Marlin sells flanges with multiple patterns

 

[reddingcruiser]

Got my round flange at Cruiser Outfitters. About $40.

Double cardan should be on the t-case, as I believe you noted you were doing.

 

[SMG]

Got my round flange at Cruiser Outfitters. About $40.

Double cardan should be on the t-case, as I believe you noted you were doing.

Cool, Just found the pinion flanges on their website.

Yep, Cardan on the t-case side.

Thanks

 

[Poser]

Before you work real hard at making that double cardan joint fit your transfer case emergency brake drum, verify that the bolt pattern on the 1310 yoke on the other end of the drive shaft is the same as the double cardan bolt pattern.


If that is the case, simply swap the emergency brake drum to a 1970-1973 three speed bolt pattern drum and call it good.

 

[65swb45]

Before you work real hard at making that double cardan joint fit your transfer case emergency brake drum, verify that the bolt pattern on the 1310 yoke on the other end of the drive shaft is the same as the double cardan bolt pattern.


If that is the case, simply swap the emergency brake drum to a 1970-1973 three speed bolt pattern drum and call it good.

@Poser brings up a good point I kind of glossed over. I have had the guys at Tom Woods tell me on more than one occasion that the spicer parts configure well with the 69-73 LC pattern. Since that's what I run on all my rigs, it's been a no-brainer for me.

 

[Downey]

Have you gotten around to front drive shaft yet, and what tranny are you using ???, front upper joint will have to be smaller with auto tranny.

 

[SMG]

So I spoke will Curtis from Tatton Driveshafts and it sounds like he's going to do right by sending me a new set of end yoke flanges. Hopefully this will fix my driveshaft issues.

Before you work real hard at making that double cardan joint fit your transfer case emergency brake drum, verify that the bolt pattern on the 1310 yoke on the other end of the drive shaft is the same as the double cardan bolt pattern.


If that is the case, simply swap the emergency brake drum to a 1970-1973 three speed bolt pattern drum and call it good.

Steve,

Thanks for the input, but I'm not sure I fully understand what you are saying.

My transfer case flange and pinion flange are both the rectangular 60mm x 68.5mmn hole pattern. As far as the driveshaft, I have no idea what pattern it is on either end. All I know, is that it was off by quite a bit.

I guess I could always redrill the brake drum on the transfer case side and use a new round pinion flange on the diff side.(redrilled)

Thanks!

 

[SMG]

Have you gotten around to front drive shaft yet, and what tranny are you using ???, front upper joint will have to be smaller with auto tranny.

Not yet, I am using I stock one piece case with a NV4500 transmission.

I believe the patterns are the same. (60mm x 68.5mm) I will check..

Thanks

 

[SMG]

@Poser brings up a good point I kind of glossed over. I have had the guys at Tom Woods tell me on more than one occasion that the spicer parts configure well with the 79-73 LC pattern. Since that's what I run on all my rigs, it's been a no-brainer for me.

Hmmmmm, now I get it. Well depending on what flanges he sends me, this would be another option.

Sure wish I would have purchased it from Tom Wood from the get go!!!

Lesson learned!

 

[Poser]

I guess I could always redrill the brake drum on the transfer case side and use a new round pinion flange on the diff side.(redrilled)

Thanks!

Thats what I am telling you that you DO NOT need to do.

Get an emergency brake drum from a 1970-1973 40/55 and the drive shaft will likely slip right on.

No mill work, no indexing no bull****. Just gun the 27mm nut off the tcase after you drain the gear oil, slide the drum off, install the different drum, install a new stake nut, torque the nut, stake it, and call it good.

 

[SMG]

Thats what I am telling you that you DO NOT need to do.

Get an emergency brake drum from a 1970-1973 40/55 and the drive shaft will likely slip right on.

No mill work, no indexing no bull****. Just gun the 27mm nut off the tcase after you drain the gear oil, slide the drum off, install the different drum, install a new stake nut, torque the nut, stake it, and call it good.

Ok, I get the whole drum removal. I guess the reason I was confused was because there's so many different 1310 flanges, but now I get it. If the flange has a 1.808 pilot, then the flange should fit an earlier brake drum or close to it. I wasn't thinking of the pilot.

Duh, I'm a slow learner.

Thanks, this gives me another option if the flanges he sends me are wrong.

Thanks!

 

[Cruiserdrew]

And going forward, every time you rebuild a diff or a transfercase, install the multi-drill flanges from @cruiseroutfit . I finally wised up a couple of years ago, and it's already saved me serious driveshaft compatibility pain. Marlin may sell them too.

But for your application, agree that the easiest, best and most expedient thing, is to install and earlier e-brake drum. Also, Sacramento Driveline had those earlier E-brake drums on the shelf if you have a tough time finding one.