Is This Part Ready to Paint? (1 Viewer)

[Gerrha]

Newbie question here. I would like to clean and repaint many different parts as I work through my rebuild, but I have no significant experience doing it. When is a part ready or not? My goal for all of my parts is to refinish them as close to OEM as I myself can reasonably do. I have looked at a lot of photos here on the forum and some of the paint work looks better than new to me. How do you do it?

For example, the part in my photos below is clearly the top of the air cleaner. I had it in my caustic cleaning tank for about 3-weeks and this is how it now looks after rinsing and some light scrubbing with a small wire brush.

Is this part ready to be painted? If yes, what paint products and what painting procedure would be the best to get this as close to OEM as possible?
If it is not ready to be painted, what should I do to get it ready?

Appreciate the help!

 

[ppc]

That part has a rubber seal on the bottom that mates against the air filter. I would think the caustic cleaning tank visit probably damaged the rubber. Should have never been dipped for even a short period of time. Dip only 100% metal parts.

Personally I would not use chemicals but use mechanical options like sandblasting, sandpaper, wire wheel etc. Next use a self etching primer that will neutralize any remaining rust. Even though it looks rust free any extremely small amount will not be a permanent repair. The quality of the finished product is definitely tied to quality of preparation. Any pits showing need to be filled with a body filler and sanded smooth. Nothing special about paint but the OEM finish is not a glossy finish so use a flat style of automotive paint not gloss.

 

[Gerrha]

That part has a rubber seal on the bottom that mates against the air filter. I would think the caustic cleaning tank visit probably damaged the rubber. Should have never been dipped for even a short period of time. Dip only 100% metal parts.

Personally I would not use chemicals but use mechanical options like sandblasting, sandpaper, wire wheel etc. Next use a self etching primer that will neutralize any remaining rust. Even though it looks rust free any extremely small amount will not be a permanent repair. The quality of the finished product is definitely tied to quality of preparation. Any pits showing need to be filled with a body filler and sanded smooth. Nothing special about paint but the OEM finish is not a glossy finish so use a flat style of automotive paint not gloss.

It had a poorly felt-like gasket that was glued to the outer metal rim. In my opinion, the caustic tank was exactly what was needed to remove all of that old junk. Once repainted, I will replace that felt-like gasket.

 

[Gerrha]

It had a poorly felt-like gasket that was glued to the outer metal rim. In my opinion, the caustic tank was exactly what was needed to remove all of that old junk. Once repainted, I will replace that felt-like gasket.

Oh, and yes, it had a rubber gasket glued to it that mates with the air filter. I bought a new one of those that I will replace after repainting. There is an identical rubber gasket glued to the bottom of the main air cleaner body, which is also in the caustic dip tank.

 

[ppc]

When you sandblast you can place tape over the rubber parts to protect them. Instead of three weeks in a tank sandblasting can be done in 30 minutes or less depending on the speed/capacity of the air compressor.

 

[Gerrha]

Been thinking about getting one. I have a compressor rated at 15cfm @ 90 psi, but I don’t know.

But, from what you said, the part in my photos is not yet ready to be painted and expect it to look and last like OEM.

 

[ppc]

That compressor seems more than adequate but may need to pause to allowing the tank to refill.

 

[Gerrha]

By the time this project is done, I will have spent more than two 2025 Land Cruisers with all options would be.

But, your recommendation would be to go all the way to bare metal everywhere. Not to use any of these rust conversion primers etc? And you mention OEM is not gloss. I got new axle housings and they look like gloss black?

 

[ppc]

By the time this project is done, I will have spent more than two 2025 Land Cruisers with all options would be.

But, your recommendation would be to go all the way to bare metal everywhere. Not to use any of these rust conversion primers etc? And you mention OEM is not gloss. I got new axle housings and they look like gloss black?

Paint finish is just a matter of personal preference. No differences if rust resistance.

I said yes, use rust conversion I used the term self-etching are one in the same just a different name same process.

 

[Gerrha]

Paint finish is just a matter of personal preference. No differences if rust resistance.

I said yes, use rust conversion I used the term self-etching are one in the same just a different name same process.

Sounds good, thanks!

 

[Rusty Marlin]

Painting is 95% prep work.
Whatever finish you want from the paint has to be in the part to painted.

Wire wheels are awsome at removing scale and rust, but please wear eye-pro, they shed wires like its thier job. You'll occasionally even pick them out of your hide.
The sand blast cabinet is a god send. Your compressor sounds plenty big enough.
With both methods you'll still need to use a high build primer that you can sand back to smooth to hide the imperfections or a combination of body fillers and high build primers to get that flawless surface for your paint work to really shine.

I have multiple grits of emery paper, everything from 220 to 600, on hand. Plus rolls of emery cloth in various widths and grits that let me "shoe shine" tight areas or radii. There are sanding sticks available, but I can make your own with 3M 777 spray adhisive and popsical sticks. Cut the stick to whatever shape needed and glue the emery paper to it. Repeat as often as needed.

Don't underestimate the quality of the paint gun and dryer system to run the air through.

 

[Gerrha]

Painting is 95% prep work.
Whatever finish you want from the paint has to be in the part to painted.

Wire wheels are awsome at removing scale and rust, but please where eye-pro, they shed wires like its thier job. You'll occasionally even pick them out of your hide.
The sand blast cabinet is a god send. Your compressor sounds plenty big enough.
With both methods you'll still need to use a high build primer that you can sand back to smooth to hide the imperfections or a combination of body fillers and high build primers to get that flawless surface for your paint work to really shine.

I have multiple grits of emery paper, everything from 220 to 600, on hand. Plus rolls of emery cloth in various widths and grits that let me "shoe shine" tight areas or radii. There are sanding sticks available, but I can make your own with 3M 777 spray adhisive and popsical sticks. Cut the stick to whatever shape needed and glue the emery paper to it. Repeat as often as needed.

Don't underestimate the quality of the paint gun and dryer system to run the air through.

I used a Dremel tool with wire wheels on my transmission body and I can vouch for sure about those flying wires and I did have to pull a few out - little devils.

I don't have a paint gun. I sort of veer away from thinking I can do a good enough job to justify a paint gun. I have been using Eastwood's 2K spray paint. It is spendy, but it looks good, and you need to have sufficient items to paint to use all the paint in a can or it is a waste. I just hope it also works long term.

 

[thedoughboy]

An angle grinder with a wire wheel attachement makes quick work of surface rust. Be sure to ALWAYS wear gloves and eye protection when using this method. A Kn95 mask is part of my approach too.

Rust Bullet and/or POR15 are well documented on MUD and work extremely well for treating rust.

 

[mudgudgeon]

The quality of the finished product is definitely tied to quality of preparation.

100% this!

A paint failure or poor paint finish is most of the time down to poor preparation.

That part needs more prep.

Clean, degrease, clean, sand, clean, wax & grease remover before paint.
Sanding a greasy party will embed grease and oils into the paint.

If the part isn't rusty, sand gently you have a sound surface to repair over. A lot of paints break down to a chalky surface. Painting directly on this is no good.
Sand with a sanding sponge, a purpose made scotch brite scourer, sand paper, wire wheel.

If you expose raw metal, after cleaning with wax and grease remover, use an etch primer before painting.

If a part has rust, use a rust converter product.
Phosphoric acid chemically alters rust, and creates a protective layer. Such prime, then paint ASAP after treating.
Some products use phosphoric acid, and chemicals to produce a sealer/primer coating you can paint over.

Best to stick to one brand for etch primer, primer, paint so you are using a tested system to avoid compatibility issues.

 

[mudgudgeon]

your recommendation would be to go all the way to bare metal everywhere.

not always. Make a judgement on condition of the part, condition of paint, and complexity of the part

Not to use any of these rust conversion primers etc?

Rust converters most definitely have a place when painting car parts.

And you mention OEM is not gloss. I got new axle housings and they look like gloss black?

The paints used on chassis parts dulls/deterioratea a lot.

POR15 is a durable alternative

 

[Gerrha]

Thanks everyone.